I finally got around to installing Dodson's trans oil filler kit. Easy enough install and works perfectly. I'm going to eventually cut an access hole for the drain plug filler and filter housing. Removing the undertray was the hardest part of the job. It's easy to verify the stock level too. The whole assembly doesn't need to come out just the checkvalve. Once your at factory fill level reinstall the check valve and hook up your pump. I have an otc pump that sucked two quarts into its tank then pumped it into the trans. Then remove the hose and install the cap.

Don't forget if your using a lift don't block the undertray bolts. Ask me how I know lol.

 

Nice write up. I have this also. Like the idea of just removing the check valve. After removing the check valve, could you tell me what size male fitting threads into the Dodson side? Like to order just that one size instead of a whole universal kit. I see you pointing to a general area, just making sure the exact size/ part number? Big thanks.

 

It came with the dodson kit. I cut that adapter off the hose because I would never use it and pushed the dodson fitting on it its place.

 

My Dodson kit came with an Adel clamp to support the lower portion of the kit between the trans fluid pan and the one way check valve area. Did you have an adel clamp and didn’t install it or did Dodson decide it wasn’t necessary?

 

It came with the clamp but didn't seem to fit anywhere very well so I left it off for now.

 

I was able to make it work but took a while. I cut off a small portion of the rubber on the Adel clamp so it wasn’t so tight around the valve. And I used extra washers to space the clamp very slightly away from the pan. This required using a longer pan bolt. The hole that this bolt goes into is threaded all the way through the aluminum tab, at least on my car.

 

This is what I had to do. Still loosens up but stays stationary with no issues.

 

the underside of your transmission is CLEAN holy ballllll s.
does everyone's looks like that or like mine; a dirty rag with lots of leaking fluid?

 

That whole setup is probably around 400.00, why not just take it to the dealer for as often as you have to replace fluid.

 

I'm going to take a stab and say the OP races, which means fluid changes are a lot more often than the average street driver.

 

Yeah, supposed to swap fluid out after every 24 hours of track time.
The OLM / DIC doesn't update when you are tracking. Have to keep track of that yourself.

 

Why do you need a check valve, how do you know when trans is full or at correct level?

 

Great pics of the install!
BTW, you are not the only one who blocked the two bolts on either side of the rear Aluminum Shear Plate/Aero Panel.

I made this Pic to show how the Tech who removed mine was able to use my 1-inch high GM spec (max 2 1/2 inch diameter) lift pads to clear the 4 bolts using a hand wrench to remove (versus other bolts where he used his powered wrench.)


Top Pic is dealer tech removing my aluminum shear plate/aero panel using my 1-inch-high GM spec'd (max 2 1/2-inch diameter lift pads.
Bottom Pic is Chuck at the dealership where Conti is a salesman saying they had to lift a C8 several times, so their jack pads on their lift arms cleared the 4 bolts!

 

I liked the idea, but not the way they did it.

I did a similar setup with a banjo bolt to AN fitting and installed it under the airbox. Now I have a remote fill location with easy access in the engine bay. I hook up my pump and in a few minutes the trans can be filled. I also added in a M14x1.50 Valvomax drain in the drain location. Since I track my car and will need to change fluid yearly, this will make the entire process really easy. Oh, I added in the "trap door" mod into the pan as well... super easy going forward.

 

Next time you're in there, would you mind taking some pics of your setup please?

 

Hi i have done the remote fill also with AN8 hardware and M14 x 1.5 banjo. pain getting the airbox out but need to carve out two sections underneath to fit cleanly over Banjo. Doesnt weaken base and the front passenger (your contry) side mounting leg is still in tact. Fill line sits against rear trunk cross member, ideal for P clamp (16mm) as theres two M6 threaded holes already from factory





Now building a remote fill for the level plug hole side gearbox. Same braided lines and anodised hardware with M20 x 1.5 to AN8 plug and lines.

 

This is great! So, with the level plug hole extension, will you be rigging it so that you can actually tell when the fluid is level with the bottom of that hole? A sight glass?? Or somehow keeping the extension level with the hole? Or....?

 

I'll take some pictures as I haven't (yet) buttoned the whole thing up from filling it the other week.

Essen@BrookeK did the same as I.

I used an M14 x 1.5 to AN6 banjo:
I pointed this to the "outside" (passenger side here in the US), so my airbox has an extra wall cut vs. the picture shown above.

Next I added this AN6 18" with a right angle hose:
From there I can just take this hose directly up to the cross member. My goal was to be able to use my pressure tank to fill the car, and that came with a series of adapters:


At the end of the 18" hose I placed this adapter: AN6 / M12 x 1.5

This allows me to use the ATF109 adapter which is M12 x 1.5

If you notice though, I now have threads on both ends. Finding an female / female M12 x 1.5 piece seemed VERY expensive for some reason. Then I realized that you can get open end wheel lug nuts in M12 x 1.5, so I did that for a few bucks.

So, for everyday, the banjo bolt -> 18" AN hose -> this cap
I use this AN6 cap:
And it just resides in the car. When it's time to fill, I remove the cap, and I attach my ATF109 + the open ended lug nut and I can fill the system in about 10 mins. It worked flawlessly, and I was rather happy with coming up with this.

I'll get a picture soon of the hose and setup as the pictures I have right now are mainly for mock up and rough. They worked for me to work through making cuts and such without any real issues though.

 

How do you know when trans is full or at the level you want?

 

as per many viewers have stated roughly 9.5 qts comes out at drain time. Add 10 qts to be safe. (overfill 0.5 qts)
Mine is a 2022 model so can safely add up to 2 more qts ( if tracking) so dont really need to check via fill hole.
If worried and wish to be exact when the first drain is done measure out the dirty oil