I have experience but the C8 is new to me. I know that I can leave off the front pad tension clips (since they are a bear to remove/install). Left them off for track trip 1 a few weeks ago, replaced with OEM pads, no clips, no rattle.

Today, removed OEMs in favor of track pads from a few weeks ago. Installed with no tension clips, and I've got rattle. I noted that I do have a bit less pad material on these due to track use of course.

So I assume this can be normal, and maybe they'll settle down a bit with use. So my question is: Are there any substantial negatives that I don't know about?

If so, suggestions on re-installing tension clips?

 

Easiest way to swap C8 Z51 front pads is to just remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the hub. That way you're not screwing around with the goofy bolts and spring. I'd get it reinstalled to prevent your pads from flopping around which likely leads to your noise and probably inconsistent wear as well over time.

 

Have no idea why you say the tenson clips are hard to remove and replace. In fact, even IF I was going to remove the calipers to replace the pads (which I did not) I would do it as well! WHY??

• First a person who removed the caliper said it was a pain to get the caliper back with new pads installed. They recommended installing the new pads after the caliper was back in place,
• Second, once you take the OEM pads off with the double-sided brake tape, new pads, certainly racing pads or low dust pads (as I installed Carbotech 1521s) don't have it so replacing the pads is a snap! Great for swapping Street pads for Track pads and back! With caliper bolted in place, slip in the new pads, put the anti-rattle springe and bolts on, similar to the C7! Easier than changing brake fluid!

Here are 2 pics from my How Too PDF: http://netwelding.com/Ceramic_Pads.pdf

Only needs this special brake caliper socket used in a number of European cars. $10 on Amazon!


Not much torque required as it's just a small threaded bolt that mounts into a pin preventing caliper spreading when pistons apply load on rotor!

 

So no suggestions on dealing with front caliper tension clips? Across three generations of Corvettes, these are by far the worst. Do appreciate that they are designed to push pads away from the rotors when installed, just stinks to remove/reinstall them.

 

Hmm, perhaps what I provided is NOT what you taking about BUT thought I made it clear! If you buy the simple socket to remove the cross bolt that makes the caliper stiff there is NO LONGER a need to remove the caliper when changing pads!!! Don't have to try to install the clips with the caliper out, which is foolish anyway! Just put the tension clip in after you slip the pads in the empty caliper already on the car.

One you change pads you just replace the pads as on all other Vettes, they just slip in! Then the tension clip just inserts from the top! What is this Sitnks to remove them mean! I never removed my calipers to replace my Z51 pads! I did the same with my early 2014 Z51 that also used strong two side brake tape! But risky but that is what i did. BUT you 1st have to remove the cross bolt!

 

The “chatter” was probably from different types of pad material on the rotor.

 

Jerry - have you ever tried to remove the cross bolt? You can’t just pull the bolt. The bolt elements that insert into the caliper are a different fatter gauge than the center 3 inches where the tension clip is clipped on. You can’t remove the bolt until you get the clips extracted around the larger gauge section. It’s frustrating both to remove and reinstall. I wasn’t talking about removing the caliper as some may do to first remove the OEM pads.

I have been doing this work for many years on many different Corvettes. The design of this one stinks (though I love that it pushes pads outward).

 

I changed my C8 Z51 brake pads week one (September 2020) to Carbotech 1521 low dust street pads. I did it the same way I installed Carbotech pads on my early 2014 Z51 that also had very strong, double side "brake tape" between the pads and the pistons. Did the same on my 2017 Grand Sport. It's a bit risky to the dust boots dealing with the double-sided tape without removing the calipers so in my many page How to PDF, I and others recommend it's safer removing the caliper to break that tape hold.

The caliper cross bolt is easy to remove! It's a relatively small screw that threads into the bolt. Yep, you need a special #10 socket as that type of cross brace is on Porsche, Audi etc.

Yep changed a lot of brakes since I was ~10 in 1952, helping my Dad! Have changed brake pads on many cars including my 1st a '41 Coupe I stuffed in an Olds engine, with rear brake drums you had to use a puller to get off the keyway in the axle. Built my current Street Rod with TCI chassis having front and rear disk brakes with the rears from an early Cadillac. It had a mechanical arrangement that activates the pistons with a cable for an emergency brake! Talk about difficult, only made that for a few years but fits the narrowed Currie 9" Ford rear in that tubed 4 bar link chassis! Yep, they are all different- but the challenge is part of the fun!

You appear to be saying spreading the center clips on the spring that go around the caliper brace bolt require you to pry them open slightly! Yep, missed that as it's obvious, mentioned in my How Too PDF and pliers work fine to open them slighlty for the room needed. It pulls out fine but to get back does require minor bending the clip. They are a help for those who changed pads by removing the caliper! Holds it in place! They also help keep the spring centered BUT not perfectly, see pic as it can still be pushed too far to one side! As I slipped the caliper brace bolt back in, I just spread them enough to get it through, as my PDF notes. You can, if desired use pliers to close BUT not essential! Mine have worked fine with zero issues for 2 years.

For others viewing this Thread: The center caliper brace slips out after you remove the relatively small screw from one end. Takes a few minutes IF you buy the $10 socket!


Remove the 4 pins that hold the pads in place and the spring just lifts out! install the same way. A poster who used my PDF How Too sent a message saying he used my suggestion of first removing the caliper (as others suggest as well) BUT it is a PIA to get the caliper with pistons, caliper bolt and anti-rattle springs in place. He suggests installing the caliper WITHOUT PADS, CALIPER BRACE OR SPING, then, as I did, slip the pads in, then install the spring, pins and cross brace. That has been my suggestion in my PDF and get lots of Thanks! Note to slip the cross brace in, you have to bend the spring center clips just slightly!

One other note re the spring (covered in my PDF in this pic and as with the ~30+ pics long caption in words) found by a poster. The spring "arms" MUST be placed on the pad metal backing platea and NOT pushed to one side where one pad backing plate is not under the spring "arm!" (Note "arm" is my term) That is where the spring tension must be placed. it's NOT the center spring clips that are critical or where tension is controlled- it's where those "arms" are located!

 

Since this topic is about changing brake pads, I'll add this. My Carbotech pads started squealing bad on slow stops. I pulled the pads and used this product, CRC Disc Brake Quite. It totally silenced them. Just thought I'd share in case anyone else experiences that.

Anyone know if there's a downside to using a product like this? I've had one track day since using it as well.

 

^^^
I used this quality high temp ceramic brake lub on the pad backs when I installed Carbotech 1521 Street Pads my C8, as I had when installing them on my 2017 Grand Sport i drove for 4 years and for 3 years with those pads on my 2014 C7 Z51 -NEVER A PEEP.


Put a generous amount on the pad backs where the pistons hit (three each on the C7 Grand Sport 6 piston front calipers. Used the same sparingly on the steel pad back sides as suggested by GM

 

I use something similar (don't remember the name but it is blue) on my front pads to replace the adhesive. It hardens to a rubbery/plastic consistency with heat and time so the pads may require some cleanup if you remove them and then want to reuse them. But I don't track my car so my pads will stay in place.