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Is there a “secret” to attaching the plug wires to the plugs? I’ve changed a LOT of plugs and wires over the years but I can’t get these to seat on the plug
Any trick to the C8? The boots seem very tight and it’s hard to get the feel of when it clicks on the spark plug.
A lot of frustration! They gave me fits too after installing my headers. Seemed like sometimes they clicked right in, other times they needed more wiggling around and sometimes a little force and twisting. Sometimes it took a few attempts. I then did it all over again when I installed the Corsa plug boot heatshields! For anyone that has their wires off and wants to add a little extra heat protection, most AutoZone stores typically stock the DEI ones.
Really annoying. I thought they were on and we went for ride and ended up limping home with CEL and ESC lights.
Once I get them in right, will I have to disconnect the battery to clear the codes?
That happened on my initial header test drive too. I did not manually reset the code and it went away on its own shortly after reseating the plug wires.
If yours stays on, any auto parts store with a code reader can clear it for you (most offer this service for free).
Coat the inside of each boot with dielectric grease and they will slide on and click easier. My Granatelli wires went on fairly easy except for the rearward plug on the passenger side, that required a bit more effort due to space.
I tested dielectric grease all the way to the 1/100,000 ohm and found NO conductivity.
It was also black, full of carbon and nasty to deal with.
My recommendation would a dry lube like Blaster Dry Lube:
Dielectric grease is non-conductive. It’s a common misconception that it is conductive because the name has the word electric in it. If it conducted electricity it would cause all sorts of issues with shorts especially when used in harness plugs with multiple wires.
Motor Trend has a good write up stating;“why is it sold in auto parts stores in the electrical section and included in almost every high-quality ignition or aftermarket electrical accessory you buy? Because when applied properly to electrical sockets, plug wires, or fittings with a good, tight mechanical connection, dielectric grease is a fantastic means to keep water and moisture out of your electrical system, prevents rubber gaskets from drying and cracking and seizing, and helps mitigate any dust or alkaline contamination that could cause corrosion and early deterioration of your wiring and connectors.
Mine is clear too. Finally got the socket to clip to the spark plug. The dielectric grease helped it slide on and easier t feel the connection. CEL was off immediately when I started the car.
Dielectric grease is non-conductive. It’s a common misconception that it is conductive because the name has the word electric in it. If it conducted electricity it would cause all sorts of issues with shorts especially when used in harness plugs with multiple wires.
Motor Trend has a good write up stating;“why is it sold in auto parts stores in the electrical section and included in almost every high-quality ignition or aftermarket electrical accessory you buy? Because when applied properly to electrical sockets, plug wires, or fittings with a good, tight mechanical connection, dielectric grease is a fantastic means to keep water and moisture out of your electrical system, prevents rubber gaskets from drying and cracking and seizing, and helps mitigate any dust or alkaline contamination that could cause corrosion and early deterioration of your wiring and connectors.
An interesting fact re electrical current flow. I started in R&D in the welding field. Recall the Lab Division Head of the equipment design group told me he uses Vaseline on his battery terminals before installing! As he said current will flow though a single small Dot where contact is best and the Vaseline stops corrosion in the other.
Found support in subsequent research for his statement! Here are two examples:
First and helpful to understand MIG welding current flow from the copper contact tip to steel wire moving thru the tip very quickly. Even welding at ~250 amps with an 0.045 inch diameter wire, all current flows thru a Dot the size of a pin head at the copper contact tip/steel wire interface. That Dot is usually at the inside end of the copper contact tip.
Second was an observation watching a test plate being welded with SAW at ~650 amps. The 1 inch thick plates being welded were placed on a Cast Iron large table in our Lab where the ground cables were attached directly to the table. Large clamps were holding the test plate to the table. One corner of the pre-angled plates being welded was touching the table. The test weldment had a 1/4 inch thick backing bar touching the table. Observed a red glow at the corner touching the table indicating all current was going thru that one contact point and not the large surface or where one of the clamps holding it to the table was located.
It is a complex reason and has to do with once started on the path of least resistance or reactance (considering inductive effects) the self induced magnetic fields tend to keep flow in that path even with a spot, in this case, with higher resistance. Similar with carbon brushes on a commutator. The current path may jump from one Dot to another but is flowing thru a small spot at any instant.
I found that leverage and relative positioning are your friend when removing/reinstalling the plug wires. For this task, I worked mostly from the trunk area. That way, I was able to use counter pressure to seat the plug wires. There was no need for more grease as my car is a 23 and there was grease in the plug wires.
I am considering getting the Red 8 MM 0-ohm plug wires and putting them on-how was access on C8 and did you notice any difference in response, electronic interference, etc? Thanks