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NEED E-test help !

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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 09:55 PM
  #1  
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Default NEED E-test help !

Happy Easter Gang,

I need some help,

took the car in for an E-test today and it failed WTF ?
The service guy doing the work wasen't familiar with vettes and seemed to be stumbling a bit, I am hoping this caused the poor results ?
Either way, i now have a 10 day temp sticker on my car

I was hoping some of the more technically inclinded could help me discipher these results. As a comparison I have included the results of my last E-test 2 years ago.

16- April -07
Mods: Hall tech and BB bullets

HC ppm limit 58, reading = 5
co% limit 0.32, reading = 0.00
NO ppm limit 435, reading 6
RPM 1211
Dilution 14.65


3-April 2010
Mods same as above + lg header, LS6 intake, tune
HC ppm limit 58, reading 176
CO% limit 0.32, reading 0.62
NO ppm limit 435, reading 1272
RPM 614
Dilution 14.3

The RPM seems really low considering the car idles at 800 RPM and the guy was holding 40 km. Would that throw the readings that far out ?
The car also had a full tank of gas from last season with STA-BIL would that affect my readings ?

The car runs strongs, no bad smells, great fuel economy, does not throw codes or eng lights ?

I am thinking about taking the car for a long drive, to get the old fuel out and fresh top up with some 94., Then hitting the e-test again ?
I am off work mon and really want to take adavantage of my free day to get this resolved.

I know of H/C cars passing emissions, not sure why I am struggling ?


Any input or advice ?

Thanks,

Corey
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 10:32 PM
  #2  
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Why such a low rpm reading? Was this when it was doing the at speed test? If the rpm is correct then the engine was lugging and the readings will be affected.

Are the idle numbers good?

Warmed up and properly tuned and properly tested it should pass no problem.
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 10:49 PM
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Corey, got your email.

Swing by my place in Waterloo this week. We'll go for a drive and do some logging. I can make some changes to try to help you pass.
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 11:12 PM
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Question: After you fail, Can you just get a repair shop to write up a quote/esitimate saying in order for you to lower your emission you would need to remove your headers and retune and the cost for that is 700.00


I thoughtI heard that if you fail, then get the estimate, you can go to the Ministry and they will still let you license it but its called a conditional pass or something like that if the repair cost are over 400.00. Isnt this the easiest and cheapest way?

I need to do this in the next 2 weeks as well and Im not sure I'll pass as is , thats why I'm interested and asking. Has anyone else gone this route?
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 12:51 AM
  #5  
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Have you changed oil before you went, BTW if you are running rich and rings are not tight, may be raw fuel diluted with oil and so the HC reading high. For the heck of it i always change oil, check spark plugs replace if need be, since i always have a tuner, so retard couple degree, drive few miles before entering the emission center.

Do you have catch can? check PCV hooked up to catch can, i was surprise to see some of em removed PCV valve when they installed Catch can. GL and i agree that rpm does not right.

How about NOX?

Well Arun will sure take care of tune and observe thos important parameters.....
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 09:18 AM
  #6  
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Cory for what its worth perhaps he was lugging the engine in 6th at 40 km/hr. Was this a GM dealer doing the test. To me I think its a testing error since you still have stock cats and have done nothing to change the operation. Perhaps its worth testing again at a GM dealer and make sure its warm when you take it in.
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 12:21 PM
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Thanks for the reply guys,

Arun, I will call you tomorrow maybe we can hook up Mon night ?

The oil was fresh changed it before going into storage,

Car was warm, drove it for 30 min to get cats nice and hot

According to the paper work, i have 2 tires at a pass then a limit of 450$ for repairs to get a conditional pass. I have not looked into any other options for a pass at this point.

Not sure about the low RPM reading the monkey doing the test had a hard time getting a good reading. i did not notice the rpm until I got the print out.

thx
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 01:35 PM
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Did you pass the idle readings?
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 09:32 PM
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The monkey had it in 6th gear when it should have been 4th. Personally, I'd go back and insist on a free re-test in 4th or your money back.

I wish the Ford dealer near here still did tests. They'd stick the sniffer up one tail pipe on a dual exaust car and leave the other one open. They also would ignore exaust leaks so I know more than one person who opened up the pipe after the muffler to let some of the exaust out.


Originally Posted by GettReal
I thoughtI heard that if you fail, then get the estimate, you can go to the Ministry and they will still let you license it but its called a conditional pass or something like that if the repair cost are over 400.00.
Yes, if you spend enough trying to fix it then you get a conditional pass. However, next time you test you have to pass. I can't remember if the conditional gets you one year or two. At any rate, it's not a great option so you might as well actually put the money and time into getting it to pass rather than trying to cheat the system. Ity really only makes sense for a car you're going to dump before the next test or say if you have to install the cats for the test and you have someone doctor a repair bill.

Peter

Last edited by lionelhutz; Apr 5, 2010 at 12:38 PM.
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by GettReal
Question: After you fail, Can you just get a repair shop to write up a quote/esitimate saying in order for you to lower your emission you would need to remove your headers and retune and the cost for that is 700.00


I thoughtI heard that if you fail, then get the estimate, you can go to the Ministry and they will still let you license it but its called a conditional pass or something like that if the repair cost are over 400.00. Isnt this the easiest and cheapest way?

I need to do this in the next 2 weeks as well and Im not sure I'll pass as is , thats why I'm interested and asking. Has anyone else gone this route?
Steve if you still have that cam on a 232 that Dave did then you should be able to make it pass, especially with the added cubes-your cats are going to need to be good and fresh though.
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 08:47 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Monte04ss
Thanks for the reply guys,

Arun, I will call you tomorrow maybe we can hook up Mon night ?

The oil was fresh changed it before going into storage,

Car was warm, drove it for 30 min to get cats nice and hot

According to the paper work, i have 2 tires at a pass then a limit of 450$ for repairs to get a conditional pass. I have not looked into any other options for a pass at this point.

Not sure about the low RPM reading the monkey doing the test had a hard time getting a good reading. i did not notice the rpm until I got the print out.

thx

Anynight this week except thursday-call me at work at 519-747-9794.

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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 11:07 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Arun@ChampionMotors
Steve if you still have that cam on a 232 that Dave did then you should be able to make it pass, especially with the added cubes-your cats are going to need to be good and fresh though.

Nope, its a new cam that came with the stroker motor - 232/241 - .570” / .559” - Still have 2yr old high flow cats with the LG pros.

I actually still have that old cam but need to pull it from my old motor to see if it was damaged when my lifter spun in the tray. I really liked that motor set up and cant seem to part with it, so might do a slow rebuild bringing it back to exactly what it was

Anybody have donor parts?

Actually Arun, my new motor came with what the seller said was a road race pan but after talking to Canton, they said it is actually a drag race pan. Not sure if you know someone that might want that. Its this one


Last edited by GettReal; Apr 5, 2010 at 11:15 AM.
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 04:17 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by GettReal
Nope, its a new cam that came with the stroker motor - 232/241 - .570” / .559” - Still have 2yr old high flow cats with the LG pros.

I actually still have that old cam but need to pull it from my old motor to see if it was damaged when my lifter spun in the tray. I really liked that motor set up and cant seem to part with it, so might do a slow rebuild bringing it back to exactly what it was

Anybody have donor parts?

Actually Arun, my new motor came with what the seller said was a road race pan but after talking to Canton, they said it is actually a drag race pan. Not sure if you know someone that might want that. Its this one


Hmmmm, is that pan deeper than a LS2 pan? If it's similar we need to talk.

Looking at the specs you just posted on the cam-it will be very hard to pass an e-test unless it's on a 118 centerline. The split is too wide and the lobes on that cam seem very slow-something that work nice with a blower and lots of rpm. I would need to see all the specs though to verify.

I have tuned XER style lobes up to 234 degrees on the intake to pass with metal matrix style cats.

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