sand, stain and seal rocking chair: need help.
02-15-2011, 10:07 AM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
sand, stain and seal rocking chair: need help.
We are expecting our first child next month and we recieved a glider rocking chair from our mother in law. I had a guy lined up to help sand, stain and seal it for $100.00. Unfortunately, he got into a car accident last night and is unable to do it. 
soo, I have this chai rin the back of my Murano... and not sure where to go??
Anyone know a handy man that coul dtake this on for me?
(I bought the stain and satin finish) Thanks.. Mo
soo, I have this chai rin the back of my Murano... and not sure where to go??
Anyone know a handy man that coul dtake this on for me?
(I bought the stain and satin finish) Thanks.. Mo
02-15-2011, 07:59 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
02-16-2011, 08:28 AM
#4
Racer
I do a lot of wood working, mostly kitchen cabinets and such but have done a number of antique restos for friends. I doubt I would refinish a glider for $100 (in fact sure of it) and I am no where near you anyway but if you post some pictures, especially of the areas you think look bad, I might be able to suggest some things. A lot of times just a steel wool clean up and a couple of coats of tung oil will do wonders. Oil is nice because no brush strokes, easy to apply and can be touched up later without seeing it.
02-16-2011, 05:07 PM
#5
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I do a lot of wood working, mostly kitchen cabinets and such but have done a number of antique restos for friends. I doubt I would refinish a glider for $100 (in fact sure of it) and I am no where near you anyway but if you post some pictures, especially of the areas you think look bad, I might be able to suggest some things. A lot of times just a steel wool clean up and a couple of coats of tung oil will do wonders. Oil is nice because no brush strokes, easy to apply and can be touched up later without seeing it.
02-16-2011, 05:20 PM
#6
Racer
Carpet runners!? 
Seriously, stairs suck. Depends on what is on them now and what style stair run they are. The type with open ends isn't so bad, closed stringers make them a pita to sand. Assuming they are varnished now, traditional gelled stripper (watch it, burns skin and melts anything you drip it on). Use new drywall knives as scrapers, not those things with te hard metal blade you screw on a handle, they tend to gouge.
Once ready to sand, a dual action (or called random orbit) is best choice, palm sander second choice and hand third choice. Belt sanders are out! Get a flexible metal yard stick and lay it against the riser while sanding, keeps the edge of the sanding disk from marking the riser.
If it's red oak, consider a "sanding sealer" before finishing, red oak has what look like little drinking straws on the surface and that sucks the finish in leaving what looks like little specs. White oak is truely solid and finishes wonderfully without a sealer.
Minwax stain is the nicest I found to work with. Goes very evenly and is oil/solvent based so it doesn't raise the grain like water based stains do. It can also be lightened after application with varsol.
By the way, probably 99% of stairs can't be taken apart but if yours can, trust me, the time to do it will save tons of time later on!
Seriously, stairs suck. Depends on what is on them now and what style stair run they are. The type with open ends isn't so bad, closed stringers make them a pita to sand. Assuming they are varnished now, traditional gelled stripper (watch it, burns skin and melts anything you drip it on). Use new drywall knives as scrapers, not those things with te hard metal blade you screw on a handle, they tend to gouge.
Once ready to sand, a dual action (or called random orbit) is best choice, palm sander second choice and hand third choice. Belt sanders are out! Get a flexible metal yard stick and lay it against the riser while sanding, keeps the edge of the sanding disk from marking the riser.
If it's red oak, consider a "sanding sealer" before finishing, red oak has what look like little drinking straws on the surface and that sucks the finish in leaving what looks like little specs. White oak is truely solid and finishes wonderfully without a sealer.
Minwax stain is the nicest I found to work with. Goes very evenly and is oil/solvent based so it doesn't raise the grain like water based stains do. It can also be lightened after application with varsol.
By the way, probably 99% of stairs can't be taken apart but if yours can, trust me, the time to do it will save tons of time later on!
02-16-2011, 10:41 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
02-18-2011, 08:09 AM
#11
Racer
Depending on how your stairs are made, what style and how badly worn they are, there are oak tread overlays available too. Basically a thing 1/4" oak tread with an extended bull nose that you cut to width and glue down on top of existing treads. Not a lot of circumstances where they fit right but if they would fit yours, you get to finish them first then install them.
Greg
Greg
