Long long ago someone posted an excellant way to clean your engine compartment. It went something like water, armor all, wait 15 minutes, etc. Could someone re-post this procedure? Thanks

 

Don't know about that post.

I go like this

Water

Spray simple green

Water

Let dry

I never use any shine, it attracts dust and looks cheesy

 

I use water and Simple Green on a very, very lightly warmed engine. Mist it off and run the motor until everything is dry.

Don't let the Simple Green sit forever on that aluminum.

 

Also - Armor All Turns rubber brown

 

and once you use armor all, you pretty much have to use it from then on.

Just washed my engine over the weekend. Water, soap with sponge where I could, rinse. Dry with a towel, then a good blast down the road!

 

Did you have to cover the alternator and other electrical items before spraying pressured water in the engine?

 

damaging one of the 200 sensors in car or one of the computers.

 

I cover electrical components (ie. alternator, PCM, etc.) with aluminum foil or plastic bags.

 

This is a little more involved than - It went something like water, armor all, wait 15 minutes, etc.

But then I'm a perfectionist...

•Remove any excess debris; leaves and etc form the hood, grille or air-vent openings.
•Spray all electrical connectors with WD40, which repels water.
•Use cling-film or Saran wrap elastic covers to cover any sensors, electrical black boxes, electrical devises that could cause an electrical short-circuits if subjected to water spray.
•This will not guarantee that you wont cause a problem when cleaning an engine bay but it will greatly reduce the risks.
•Start and run the engine to get it warm, not hot, this will enable the de-greaser to work more efficiently on a warm surface.
•Apply an engine de-greaser (Autoglym Engine Cleaner) by lightly spraying the lower parts of the engine first and then working upwards.
•Do not allow the de-greaser to dry or remain on painted surfaces, and be sure to dilute with water and dry with a cloth.
•For heavily soiled areas agitate with a nylon engine cleaning brush and a diluted general purpose cleaner (P21S® Total Auto Wash)
•When the grease and grime is dissolved and you're ready to remove it, spray with a light (garden type) pressure water hose.
•Use the blower side of a vacuum or a compressed air supply (avoid area that may be sensitive to a forced air flow) or allow the engine compartment to air dry and then thoroughly wipe down all accessible surfaces and then remove cling-film or aluminium foil.
•When everything is dry apply a vinyl/rubber protectant to hoses, shields and wires, and spray engine parts with CD2 Engine Detailer or Groit's Spay on Engine Gloss
•Wipe off any excess with a clean cloth and apply a wax/sealant protection to painted surfaces.


CD2 Engine Detailer:
An easy to use two- step aerosol system Step one: cleans and preps engine. Step two: details engine.
Cleans, protects and shines all under the hood surfaces. Very fast acting formulas, dries tack free and leave no greasy residue, repels grease, dirt and moisture. Protects rubber and plastic engine components from cracking and drying, protects painted and metal surfaces from rust and corrosion. (midwayautosupply.com)
JonM

 

Before I bought my C5 the dealerships detail crew had sprayed all that shiney monkeysnot all over the engine, much to my dismay.
At any rate, soon after I bought the car I went to the Quarter Carwash and spent a coupla bucks blasting all that crud off the engine.

No foil
No plastic bags
No simple green
No armorall
And best of all, no problems.

The car started up after I blasted all the snot off of it without hesitation.

In the past I have used steam to clean engines and their compartments, and driven the car immediatley afterwards. These things are, after all, designed and built to be driven in the rain.

 

That doesn't mean that the top of the motor is meant to have high pressure water sprayed on it...

 

modern engine bays are made to get wet. Not soaked, but a little water isn't (well shouldn't) harm anything.

 

I copied these instructions off this forum a while ago-- this may be what you're referring to:

With a warm/hot engine, spray the entire compartment/motor with Windex. Close the hood and let set for a few minutes. Next, lightly spray down the engine compartment with water. Now, spray the entire engine compartment with Armor All. Close the hood and let set a few minutes. Next, spray with Windex again...close hood and let set...lightly spray off with water...and spray down one final time with Armor All. Now close the hood and wash and detail the exterior of the car. When you are finished drying, go back under the hood and wipe off the excess Armor All. You're finished.

 

Why not? I've done it hundreds, perhaps thousands of times.

If a problem presents itself because something got wet, the problem was there before the water got there. All the the water did was aggravate it a little and expose it. If it didn't happen then it would happen next time you got caught in a thunderstorm.

At any rate, I'll do things my way and you do things your way....

 

 

Sorry to hear about your short, where did the water get, where was the connection.

Just from my experience, i've drained connectors and PCM/ECU w/ water before w/ no ill effects. If you look at where some of these connections are it's obvious they will withstand some water. As mentioned, i'm not talking about sitting there w/ a hose and draining the connections (although I think most could w/ stand that) But a little water won't hurt them. But as with any form of detailing, this is from my experience, everyones is different. All opinions vary

hell go take a look at the new GT mustangs. The ECU is in the very front right behind the grill w/ all the connectors facing forward. It's bound to get wet (also a stupid spot to put it in case of an accident, but that's ford for ya )