Goal: To remove micro scratches from paint. The sratches are visible in direct sunlight. If I run my fingernail over the scratch I cannot feel any hesitation from the micro scratches.

Car: Artic White 98 Vette

Methods Tried: Zaino, Liquid Glass, Rejex, 3M Perfect-It Swirl Mark Remover for Light Paints

The last process I tried was:
Wash with dawn
Caly Bar
3M Perfect-It Swirl Mark Remover for Light Paints applied with PC and orange pad
Rejex applied and removed by hand 3 coats
Buff with PC and blue pad

After this process I seemed to have more micro scratches possibly from the microfiber.

So what I am looking for is some guidance on what I should do, I am frustrated. I have thought about appling more Rejex, or possibly switching from a sealant to a pure wax product. Does anybody else have any experience removing these?

Thanks,
Bob

 

Bob,

lets start by putting the LSP (Last Stage Product) or sealant/wax on the shelve temporarily. Most of the best LSP's are used to seal the prep work we need to do first. Lets look at two methods: (I like your choice to remove versus hide as shown above)

Filling --- This is simply a way to hide or temporarily reduce the flaws (marring) in the paint. Usually a glaze is used and it contains products that essential fill the scratches in. If using this step it is almost necessary to move to a pure carnuba LSP and most sealants will not adhere to this step. (Wolfgang, Menzerna FMJ exceptions) This solution will provide nice results short term.

Polishing --- this is the process where we abrade the surface and essentially reduce and or remove those markings. In order to do so we are going to need a buffer (random orbital, or rotary) and several polishes as well as pads. For instance above you were using a relatively normal polish and a more abrasive pad and you might need to use something more abrasive polish-wise and then move back to the lighter polish to gem the surface. (Compound = harshest polish, not usually need other than for excessive scratches and or oxidation)

I have found that Optimum and Poorboys 2.5 SSR are usually all that is needed to remove those markings. You can make quicker work on them with a rotary, wool pad, and about an rpm of 1000. If you prefer the safer method, using the PC, then experiment with speed. (3500-4000 rpms) I would also gem the final surface with a finishing pad and least abrasive polish last (Poorboys 1.0). Otherwise sometimes a polish leaves some micro-marring or halo effect when seen in direct sunlight. Now the wax/sealant of your choice can be used. Sealants protect longer and very reflective, waxes add depth and richness due to oil content.

http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polisher.html (some hints)

You are also correct in that towel choices, and other items can reintroduce those scratches. Consider very plush microfibers for wax and polish removal. Consider blow drying the surface and/or using a waffle weave to dry the car. And also always follow a straight pattern while washing, drying, waxing, and removal. Those circles (wax on / wax off) can also create slight marring. Hope a couple of hints help ...

 

Your process does not seem to bad but I have to wonder if the orange pad is leaving micro marring. From my experience with black paint I think I would repeat your process but use a white polishing pad instead of the orange pad. The 39009 is also a very mild polish, I would also step up to something like 3M 39002 with the polishing pad if the 39009 does not work. What speed are you using? I would go with 4.5 to 5.5. You also have to remember that a PC is a SUPER mild tool compared to a Rotary, you may have to work it for a while or step up to a rotary to remove the swirls/marring. If you have any questions please feel free to ask. Good Luck.

 

The micro scratches could have been from a previous owner I dont really know. I dont think that I have done anything to cause the problem. With the PC I would apply the swirl remover speed setting on #3 and the blue pad buff with speed sretting #5 or #6. Would I possibly benefit from more than 1 coat of swirl remover? Now that I have 3 coats of Rejex do I need to strip the car and start over? I am going to go back to cotton towels for wax and sealant removal.

 

Yes, you will need to strip the Rejex/LSP to remove the swirls. I would bump your speed up to 4.5 - 5.5 with your swirl remover. For your LSP I would go with 3. I have a black car and see some micro marring from the orange pad (probably harder to see on white) which requires me to follow up with SSR and a polishing pad to get a perfect finish. With the PC and a real mild polish like 39009 you will need to work it for a while to get any significant swirls out. I would rather see you use 39002 with a softer pad first then follow up with 39009 and the same pad vs using a orange cutting pad, just a personal preferance but it works for me. I will only use an orange or yellow pad in severe conditions. After you have your finish where you want it re apply your Rejex or LSP.

 

Pardon my ignorance but what is SSR?

 

Swirl and scratch remover.

 

Scratch and Swirl Remover. Some good examples are Zaino Fusion, Menzerna (IP and FPII) or 3m (39002, 39009). I italicized the more aggressive of the two.

 

Would this process be adequate to remove the micro scratches. I guess it is just trial and error. I will only be doing this to the rear hatch and hood since these are where the micro scratches are prevelant.

Wash with dawn
Caly Bar
3M Perfect-It Swirl Mark Remover for Light Paints applied with PC and orange pad speed 4-5.5
Polish with a orange pad speed 4-5.5
Apply rejex if micro scratches are removed

Please feel free to suggest anything that I am missing or need to change in the order listed above.
Thanks,
Bob

 

Your method sounds perfect but I would start with a white polishing pad instead of the orange cutting pad. If the white pad does not work step up to the orange pad. Always finish with the white pad for the best results.

 

Tonight I got a chance to work on the 98.

I washed the hood and rear deck lid with dawn.

Used 3M Perfect-It Swirl Mark Remover for Light Paints applied with PC and orange pad speed 5-5.5. One application

Then I used a yellow pad with PC speed 5-5.5 to apply Super Glaze by Car Bright. It is a semi abrasive glaze for removing minor scratches it can also be used as a cleaner. I tried to work in smaller areas to achieve better results. Three applications

Tommorrow I will pull the car out if we have sun and see if the scratches have been removed or concealed. If they have not been removed or concealed I guess its back if for more Glaze. Under the florscent tube lights the finish looked great but you could not see the micro scratches to begin with under these lights.
Thanks,
Bob

 

What type of pads are you using, LC or Meguiars? I would use a polising or finishing pad for my fiinal coat.

 

I am using LC Pads from Autogeek. I will use a white pad to apply the sealant. This should remove any marring right?
Bob

 

What sealant are you using? Does it contain any abrasives? If not you may just want to re-do your final polish step to remove any micro marring.

A trick I learned is to tape a seam (evem if it is only a small spot) so when you remove the tape you can see that you have buffed it back correctly and do not have any hazing or micro marring. You would be surprised, sometimes you think it looks awesome until you remove that piece of tape and realize it is still a little hazy.

 

I am using Rejex. Right now the paint looks like it is going to drip off the car. It is just a matter if the micro scratches are gone but I have to have direct sun light to see if there still there. We may get some sunlight tommorrow so we will see. Even if the micro scratches are still there the car looks amazing.

Today I applied Rejex to the vette with a PC and white pad to remove marring if there was any to begin with. I applied two coats of Rejex to the hood and rear deck lid. Then I buffed with a buffer and wool bonnet. I will try and get some pics up soon.

Thanks,
Bob

 

You're sort of working backwards in places.

A yellow pad is a cutting pad and more aggressive than the orange pad. There's a chance it won't be needed at all.

If you used the SMR with the orange pad, you should have followed it with SMR with the white pad or the glaze with the white pad. The sealant should be applied with a black/grey finishing pad or by hand. Forget about the wool bonnet. It's bad news, IMO. Just use some quality microfiber towels.

 

Did you get a lot of static???

Later,
JU

 

I see what you are saying. I tried the sealant with the grey pad and it seemed to be absorbed by pad. With the white pad I could see the hase that usually happens when you wax/seal a car. I have used microfiber but I have noticed several places where the MF towel left scratches. The MF towels were light blue from autogeek fresh outta the pack. So this time I went back to removing the sealant with a cotton diaper then buffing with the wool bonnet.

 

None that I noticed.
Bob

 

totally agree.
also excellent posts above by killerwheels and agentf1, as usual.
my points:

• yes, use white pad with 39002 first, do SEVERAL applications, checking you work over a small area after each application and wipe-off. You'll probably need to go over any area 3 to 4 times to get good results
• step up to orange pad only if not getting results. I had to do this on my C6 - the white pad didn't seem to do it for me, though on a black mercedes, the orange pad caused awful marring - I think this proves that the c6 has much harder clearcoat than some other brands
• throw away any wool bonnet or yellow pad you have. you don't need to be that aggressive - and you'll cause more problems than you'll solve
• YES, definitely step up your speed to 5 for you 39002 and 39009. Speed of 3 just won't do it
• DEFINITELY only apply sealant by HAND, or with black pad - not white or orange. You're probably making your paint perfect in your polishing stages, then causing micromarring when you apply sealant with a light cutting pad. it's really best just to use cotton applicator by hand to apply the sealant.
• Yes, throw away all microfiber, except a quality waffle weave for drying. MF will scratch the hell out of your paint. I use only ultra soft 100% cotton on my car for sealant removal. Buy one bath towel at ralph lauren and cut it up with a scissors. I personally don't like diapers for this task.

good luck -- would love to see some pics of your work -- keep at it !