Deatailing
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
Deatailing
What do yall find to clean/wax the engine the best, I know I can't use a power washer, and soap and water do not seem to do it very well.
Let me get yall's opinion on what you feel is best to clean/wax the engine compartment.
Thanks and merry christmas,
Bill
Let me get yall's opinion on what you feel is best to clean/wax the engine compartment.
Thanks and merry christmas,
Bill
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,559
Likes: 28
From: Amarillo TX
If it's really dirty, I'll use a diluted APC (all-purpose cleaner), usually 1:1 with water. I follow up with a wax/sealant on painted surfaces and a water-based dressing on plastics, rubber, etc.
My routine:
Cover PCM and other sensitive electrical components
Lightly spray engine bay with water
Apply APC and let dwell for a couple of minutes
Agitate with brushes and mitts as necessary
Rinse
Start engine to assist with drying
After dry, dress plastic and rubber and wax painted surfaces
Be careful not to saturate any area of the engine with water and use lots of common sense.
My routine:
Cover PCM and other sensitive electrical components
Lightly spray engine bay with water
Apply APC and let dwell for a couple of minutes
Agitate with brushes and mitts as necessary
Rinse
Start engine to assist with drying
After dry, dress plastic and rubber and wax painted surfaces
Be careful not to saturate any area of the engine with water and use lots of common sense.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,795
Likes: 62
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
I use Simple Green diluted 3 parts SG to 1 part water.
I cover the alternator and the battery with plastic bags.
Generously spray on the cold engine surface. let soak 5 minutes then rinse.
I do use a power washer.
If it is a hot sunny day, I leave the hood open leave it in the sun to dry. Otherwise I will use a leaf blower to blow off excess water before starting the engine.
simple green can corrode aluminum parts that is why i dilute it, use it on a cold engine and let it soak no more than 5 minutes.
Once clean, I use Aerospace 303 protectant on plastic and rubber parts.
I cover the alternator and the battery with plastic bags.
Generously spray on the cold engine surface. let soak 5 minutes then rinse.
I do use a power washer.
If it is a hot sunny day, I leave the hood open leave it in the sun to dry. Otherwise I will use a leaf blower to blow off excess water before starting the engine.
simple green can corrode aluminum parts that is why i dilute it, use it on a cold engine and let it soak no more than 5 minutes.
Once clean, I use Aerospace 303 protectant on plastic and rubber parts.
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 14,104
Likes: 244
From: South Florida
I have never found it necessary to deep clean my engine, partly because I consider it part of my weekly regimine. Here is what I do to keep her looking showroom new:
Klasse AIO -- used on all painted parts, offers a sealant durability and protection and has light cleaning ability. (ex under the hood along liner where water sits)
Pinnacles Crystal Mist -- I use this on all engine painted parts, as simply and wipe and walk product. It does offer some carnuba protection (limited on hot engine) but makes the engine covers, painted items, and chrome sparkle like new.
303 Protectant --- my fav dressing for all vacuum lines and rubber areas. It does not contain silicone and thus does not attract and hold dirt. It usually looks so nice that dressing is matte black and only needs to be done monthly.
Occasional dirty spots are usually quickly ridden with an air canister to blow the dirt out of area. If dirt has accumulated and needs additional work, normally a wet rag works perfectly. Occassionally a little goop or adhesive is found and also gone quickly with a little WD-40 on damp towel.
Klasse AIO -- used on all painted parts, offers a sealant durability and protection and has light cleaning ability. (ex under the hood along liner where water sits)
Pinnacles Crystal Mist -- I use this on all engine painted parts, as simply and wipe and walk product. It does offer some carnuba protection (limited on hot engine) but makes the engine covers, painted items, and chrome sparkle like new.
303 Protectant --- my fav dressing for all vacuum lines and rubber areas. It does not contain silicone and thus does not attract and hold dirt. It usually looks so nice that dressing is matte black and only needs to be done monthly.
Occasional dirty spots are usually quickly ridden with an air canister to blow the dirt out of area. If dirt has accumulated and needs additional work, normally a wet rag works perfectly. Occassionally a little goop or adhesive is found and also gone quickly with a little WD-40 on damp towel.
