tsgrayson

What do you mean by the sheeting method?

ZaneO

Take the nozzle off the end of the hose, and gently run water over each panel. This will make the majority of the water sheet off, requiring less drying (and thus less chance of marring).

tsgrayson

Thanks!!

agentf1

StrayDog

I agree with all the advice from the other forum members who have had success with the varuious waxes they have been using ..now my 2 cents, I bought a triple Black 1966 back in 1994 , have driven her approx 18,000 miles since 94 including 10 runs or so down the 1/4 mile.........Black is the most difficult color to keep in top condition, pollen ,dust & birds love to dive bomb my 66 black Vett........last fall I tried Rejexs on my 66......first a good wash, then clay bar ... put on 3 coats of rejeck & followed directions , letting her stay in the garage each night between coats ( a little extreme ) WOOOOOOOOOW ..The shine is great very easy to use & slippery fiinish / surface ....... & wow again..I was never going to get black again , guess what........Changed my mind after my success with rejex ,On my Black 66 >>>>> So ....have ordered a Black 2007 convertable with Black top & red interiour..tpw 6/26 .....again rejeck worked for me...will put 3 coats of rejeck on my 07 C6 as soon as possible & will keep iusing rejeck every 3 /4 months or so therafter ...just my opinion & what has worked for me...anyone want to see the finish on my 66 driver email & will send photos>>>>.the Dog ...... Woof again just my 2 cents..........."Semper Fi" ..... life is good............

auctiondepot

For a car with good finish here is what I do.

think of the dirt on the car as being abrasive and that it has to be floated off.

use a light water spray to take the heavy stuff off, you know they use water and sand jets to cut steel, so be gentle. A clean car with a dusting of dirt may not require soap after the initial rinse and you can begin drying.

If not, always use a clean wash mitt that is stored in a clean dust free place. pour your soap onto the mitt and then with the hose spray that soap onto the car, everywhere, no bucket required, gently wash and periodically clean the mitt with the hose, wash the lower parts last as this is where the most abrasive dirt collects, clean the mitt before putting it away. Don't let the car dry before you finish the wash.

Drying a car is difficult on hot sunny days as the water leaves a residue. If you have an air hose it is nice to blow out all the crevasses before pulling a sponge cloth over the car and finishing with a terry cloth towel. If you have lots of towels, skip the sponge cloth.

sometimes you just cant get the car dry before water marks appear, At this point you can wax the car and remove the marks with a cheap orbital buffer and wax, carnauba type, Waxing should be done in the garage were dust is at a minimum, outside like in the commercials is not preferred.

Swirls or the halo effect is removed with the same cheap orbital buffer only this time use a swirl remover compound like Scratch X. this takes time and patients. use masking tape to cover the rubber and molding parts. Don't buff on edges.

If you want to sand out the orange peel in the factory finish leave it for a winter project, this is real work, Ive seen top notch professional that cant do it right on a black car.

Never ever let bird poop stay on the paint.

For those expensive aluminum wheels, wash with a paint brush that is protected from its steel banding.

None of this procedure should take any longer than your normal ways.