Back in the day, after warming up the engine and covering the distributor/alternator with plastic bags, one would spray the entire engine bay with Gunk and then spray it off with your trusty garden hose.

But today, with the plethora of electronics and the multitude of possible problems if the wrong electronic gizmo or doodad gets wet, how do we clean the engine compartment?

 

Pretty much the same way. Motors are much more water-tight than they used to be.

Just use caution and common sense.

 

So some Simply Green and a garden hose will be okay, right?

 

Like I said, with caution and common sense.

Don't let Simple Green dry on anything, and dilute it at least 1:1.

 

Got it...appreciate the advice...

 

This is a common topic. I followed the video on Adams Detailing site. Take a look at this link http://www.adamspolishes.com/videos/cleaning_motor.cfm.

 

Do not use a solvent based product for engine compartment detailing as solvents have a low flash point and could start a flash fire in the engine, solvents also deteriorates and expands rubber, which may have a detrimental effect on belts and hoses.

Cleaning Methodology:
•Remove any excess debris, leaves and etc from the hood, grille or air-vent openings
•Spray electrical connectors with WD40 which repels moisture / water (avoid spraying on belts)
•Use cling-film or Saran wrap elastic covers to cover any sensors, electrical black boxes, electrical devises that could cause an electrical short-circuits if subjected to water spray.
•This will not guarantee that you won’t cause a problem when cleaning an engine bay but it will greatly reduce the risks.
•Start and run the engine to get it warm, not hot, this will enable the de-greaser to work more efficiently on a warm surface.
•Apply an engine de-greaser (Autoglym Engine Cleaner) or a solvent free, water based cleaner (Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision Cleaner) - http://industrial.simplegreen.com/ind_prod_ext_mor.php by lightly spraying the lower parts of the engine first and then working upwards.
•Enable the cleaner to work by allowing dwell time (but do not allow to completely dry)
•Do not allow the de-greaser to dry or remain on painted surfaces, and be sure to dilute with water before drying with a cloth.
•For heavily soiled areas agitate with a nylon engine cleaning brush and a diluted citrus-based cleaner (P21S® Total Auto Wash)
•When the grease and grime is dissolved and you're ready to remove it, spray with a light (garden type) pressure water hose.
•To shine aluminium engine block / parts use # 0000 synthetic bronze wool and a metal polish
•Use the blower side of a vacuum (avoid area that may be sensitive to a forced air flow) or allow the engine compartment to air dry and then thoroughly wipe down all accessible surfaces and then remove cling-film or aluminium foil.
•When everything is dry apply a vinyl/rubber protectant to hoses, shields and wires, and wipe engine parts with CD2 Engine Detailer or 303 Aerospace Protectarant
•Wipe off any excess with a clean cloth and apply a wax/sealant protection to painted surfaces.

Note-
Apply a vinyl dressing to hoses etc (no diethyl silicone fluid based dressings (DS) should be applied in the engine compartment. Use only water based polydimethalsiloxane (PDS) dressings and do not directly spray on to engine parts, spray a cloth and wipe contains no Clean Air Act Hazardous Air Pollutants (HAP) nor is it a RCRA hazardous waste in and of itself when disposed.

 

Thanks as always TOGWT for the excellent response.
I saved that to a word doc for future reference and noted you as the author to give credit to should I share it again.

 

I did the same...thanks...

TOGWT:

I think it would be a great article for the FAQs; I can host it and provide the URL if you say it's okay.

 

If you think it would be a useful reference source for Corvette owners I would be honored. This is why I share the little knowledge I have and take time out of my day to contribute to these forums to educate and pass on four decades of experience to its members in not only the “How it works’ but “Why it works” and in turn be educated by them. Because I’m passionate about I do and care about making sure detailing is a fun and rewarding experience for the enthusiast