Leaf Blower Drying: Not Impressed
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 104
From: Orange County California
I had tried using some pipe insulation (1/2" gray stuff) that I bought from home depot using some strong industrial glue. It worked ok on my last leaf blower but started to peel towards the end. On my current blower I just put several layers of duct tape over the edge of the plastic. I have bumped my truck in the past with the end of the nozzle without leaving a mark. 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,739
Likes: 0
From: New Port Richey Florida
Well I'm impatient and couldn't wait for the test results to come back from the lab. That electro-thermal chromograph sprectrum analyzer takes too long to conduct the tests and the flux-capacitor was tied up for 6 months so I just used some Home Depot discount duct tape.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 104
From: Orange County California
Well I'm impatient and couldn't wait for the test results to come back from the lab. That electro-thermal chromograph sprectrum analyzer takes too long to conduct the tests and the flux-capacitor was tied up for 6 months so I just used some Home Depot discount duct tape.
OMG That stuff causes swirl marks just being in the same vicinity as the car! You need to get Z-D3. Zaino Duct Tape, third generation. You mix it with ZFX if you're just initially putting it on. Sticks to your leaf blower better. After that, just a quick strip added here and there will do the trick!! 
Ok ok. Sorry for the frivolity. I know nobody wants to bang up their car with the potentially sharp plastic end of the blower. I don't know how other blowers are, but like I said, I'm using the head to my ShopVac that's a dual purpose thing. And the torque on the motor is high enough to have almost caused the blower end to hit the car when I first turned it on. I actually also touched the paint a couple times, with no damage yet, so I agree it's important to get some soft, protective covering on the thing. I'm thinking of epoxying a soft towel or MF around the end, starting inside and carrying it outside the tube.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,739
Likes: 0
From: New Port Richey Florida
Ok ok. Sorry for the frivolity. I know nobody wants to bang up their car with the potentially sharp plastic end of the blower. I don't know how other blowers are, but like I said, I'm using the head to my ShopVac that's a dual purpose thing. And the torque on the motor is high enough to have almost caused the blower end to hit the car when I first turned it on. I actually also touched the paint a couple times, with no damage yet, so I agree it's important to get some soft, protective covering on the thing. I'm thinking of epoxying a soft towel or MF around the end, starting inside and carrying it outside the tube.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 104
From: Orange County California
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,909
Likes: 4
From: Ponte Vedra Beach / London State: Dazed and confused
My only gripe is the mirror area on my Z06. I can use the compressor, leaf blower or whatever else. When I drive down the highway, I still see water splattering from the mirrors drenching my doors. I wish there was a cure for this.
The above advice is good.Use an electric blower. The oil in the fuel mixes as it's spent and can land on the finish, causing smearing during your final wipe down.
The above advice is good.Use an electric blower. The oil in the fuel mixes as it's spent and can land on the finish, causing smearing during your final wipe down.
Last edited by TOGWT; Jun 13, 2007 at 05:10 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,909
Likes: 4
From: Ponte Vedra Beach / London State: Dazed and confused
Drying Paint Surface Techniques:
If you’re using softened water I see nothing wrong with using an electrical leaf blower dry off your car (just be careful not to bump the hard plastic nozzle against the paint) but if you live in an area that has hard water, it seems that you’d only be accelerating the evaporation process and that those harmful and often damaging alkaline minerals that cause ‘water spot’ damage, would be precipitated out as the water evaporates and must therefore be collecting somewhere, in the seams or crevices perhaps?
My other concern is that these high speed electric (I would be wary of gas powered as it may spew oil) leaf blowers typically have an outlet velocity of 250+ mph. Now if a grain of sand or other small dirt particle were to get ingested in the inlet, it would exit and strike the [paint surface at a very high velocity, the same would be true for any internal fragments or components such as a screw that might come loose from vibration. Just my opinion but I’d prefer not to take this or any other shortcuts either when it comes to drying.
This is my preferred method of drying a vehicle paint surface;
On the final rinse of the washing process remove the nozzle from the hose and ‘sheet’ the water, this greatly helps in the drying process. I have tried many products over the years for drying but I finally found what really works the best, a micro fibre waffle weave drying towel. When they are wet they’re very soft and super absorbent, and glide easily over the surface, the ‘pockets’ in the weave ‘hold’ any dirt or surface debris unlike some other super absorbing products that trap dirt between the towel and paint surface with the potential to cause so serious scratches (never use it when it’s dry and stiff – it can potentially scratch) That goes for whatever you use for drying, including cotton towels. Ensure that the towel is really wet and then wring it out thoroughly before using.
Mop up as much water as you can, wringing out often to keep the absorption efficiency up and wringing out also those harmful minerals in the process. When the only thing left on the surface are tiny micro beads of water (really noticeable on a black car), which I easily wipe off with a pass or two of the highly absorbent waffle towel and leave the surface bone dry. This drying technique is excellent for black cars (the ones with ‘soft’ single stage paint that show every surface mark) but look so good when they are properly detailed.
This process never includes scrubbing, rubbing or applying any pressure whatsoever. The only time that pressure needs to be applied to a paint surface is when you are polishing.
PS: I like the idea of silicone tubing around the nozzle tip
If you’re using softened water I see nothing wrong with using an electrical leaf blower dry off your car (just be careful not to bump the hard plastic nozzle against the paint) but if you live in an area that has hard water, it seems that you’d only be accelerating the evaporation process and that those harmful and often damaging alkaline minerals that cause ‘water spot’ damage, would be precipitated out as the water evaporates and must therefore be collecting somewhere, in the seams or crevices perhaps?
My other concern is that these high speed electric (I would be wary of gas powered as it may spew oil) leaf blowers typically have an outlet velocity of 250+ mph. Now if a grain of sand or other small dirt particle were to get ingested in the inlet, it would exit and strike the [paint surface at a very high velocity, the same would be true for any internal fragments or components such as a screw that might come loose from vibration. Just my opinion but I’d prefer not to take this or any other shortcuts either when it comes to drying.
This is my preferred method of drying a vehicle paint surface;
On the final rinse of the washing process remove the nozzle from the hose and ‘sheet’ the water, this greatly helps in the drying process. I have tried many products over the years for drying but I finally found what really works the best, a micro fibre waffle weave drying towel. When they are wet they’re very soft and super absorbent, and glide easily over the surface, the ‘pockets’ in the weave ‘hold’ any dirt or surface debris unlike some other super absorbing products that trap dirt between the towel and paint surface with the potential to cause so serious scratches (never use it when it’s dry and stiff – it can potentially scratch) That goes for whatever you use for drying, including cotton towels. Ensure that the towel is really wet and then wring it out thoroughly before using.
Mop up as much water as you can, wringing out often to keep the absorption efficiency up and wringing out also those harmful minerals in the process. When the only thing left on the surface are tiny micro beads of water (really noticeable on a black car), which I easily wipe off with a pass or two of the highly absorbent waffle towel and leave the surface bone dry. This drying technique is excellent for black cars (the ones with ‘soft’ single stage paint that show every surface mark) but look so good when they are properly detailed.
This process never includes scrubbing, rubbing or applying any pressure whatsoever. The only time that pressure needs to be applied to a paint surface is when you are polishing.
PS: I like the idea of silicone tubing around the nozzle tip
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,630
Likes: 0
From: Studio City CA
Does it mess up the windows?
LEX
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,630
Likes: 0
From: Studio City CA
Drying Paint Surface Techniques:
If you’re using softened water I see nothing wrong with using an electrical leaf blower dry off your car (just be careful not to bump the hard plastic nozzle against the paint) but if you live in an area that has hard water, it seems that you’d only be accelerating the evaporation process and that those harmful and often damaging alkaline minerals that cause ‘water spot’ damage, would be precipitated out as the water evaporates and must therefore be collecting somewhere, in the seams or crevices perhaps?
My other concern is that these high speed electric (I would be wary of gas powered as it may spew oil) leaf blowers typically have an outlet velocity of 250+ mph. Now if a grain of sand or other small dirt particle were to get ingested in the inlet, it would exit and strike the [paint surface at a very high velocity, the same would be true for any internal fragments or components such as a screw that might come loose from vibration. Just my opinion but I’d prefer not to take this or any other shortcuts either when it comes to drying.
This is my preferred method of drying a vehicle paint surface;
On the final rinse of the washing process remove the nozzle from the hose and ‘sheet’ the water, this greatly helps in the drying process. I have tried many products over the years for drying but I finally found what really works the best, a micro fibre waffle weave drying towel. When they are wet they’re very soft and super absorbent, and glide easily over the surface, the ‘pockets’ in the weave ‘hold’ any dirt or surface debris unlike some other super absorbing products that trap dirt between the towel and paint surface with the potential to cause so serious scratches (never use it when it’s dry and stiff – it can potentially scratch) That goes for whatever you use for drying, including cotton towels. Ensure that the towel is really wet and then wring it out thoroughly before using.
Mop up as much water as you can, wringing out often to keep the absorption efficiency up and wringing out also those harmful minerals in the process. When the only thing left on the surface are tiny micro beads of water (really noticeable on a black car), which I easily wipe off with a pass or two of the highly absorbent waffle towel and leave the surface bone dry. This drying technique is excellent for black cars (the ones with ‘soft’ single stage paint that show every surface mark) but look so good when they are properly detailed.
This process never includes scrubbing, rubbing or applying any pressure whatsoever. The only time that pressure needs to be applied to a paint surface is when you are polishing.
PS: I like the idea of silicone tubing around the nozzle tip
If you’re using softened water I see nothing wrong with using an electrical leaf blower dry off your car (just be careful not to bump the hard plastic nozzle against the paint) but if you live in an area that has hard water, it seems that you’d only be accelerating the evaporation process and that those harmful and often damaging alkaline minerals that cause ‘water spot’ damage, would be precipitated out as the water evaporates and must therefore be collecting somewhere, in the seams or crevices perhaps?
My other concern is that these high speed electric (I would be wary of gas powered as it may spew oil) leaf blowers typically have an outlet velocity of 250+ mph. Now if a grain of sand or other small dirt particle were to get ingested in the inlet, it would exit and strike the [paint surface at a very high velocity, the same would be true for any internal fragments or components such as a screw that might come loose from vibration. Just my opinion but I’d prefer not to take this or any other shortcuts either when it comes to drying.
This is my preferred method of drying a vehicle paint surface;
On the final rinse of the washing process remove the nozzle from the hose and ‘sheet’ the water, this greatly helps in the drying process. I have tried many products over the years for drying but I finally found what really works the best, a micro fibre waffle weave drying towel. When they are wet they’re very soft and super absorbent, and glide easily over the surface, the ‘pockets’ in the weave ‘hold’ any dirt or surface debris unlike some other super absorbing products that trap dirt between the towel and paint surface with the potential to cause so serious scratches (never use it when it’s dry and stiff – it can potentially scratch) That goes for whatever you use for drying, including cotton towels. Ensure that the towel is really wet and then wring it out thoroughly before using.
Mop up as much water as you can, wringing out often to keep the absorption efficiency up and wringing out also those harmful minerals in the process. When the only thing left on the surface are tiny micro beads of water (really noticeable on a black car), which I easily wipe off with a pass or two of the highly absorbent waffle towel and leave the surface bone dry. This drying technique is excellent for black cars (the ones with ‘soft’ single stage paint that show every surface mark) but look so good when they are properly detailed.
This process never includes scrubbing, rubbing or applying any pressure whatsoever. The only time that pressure needs to be applied to a paint surface is when you are polishing.
PS: I like the idea of silicone tubing around the nozzle tip
This is why I never went blower. Yes there is water in the nooks, but just blow it out yourself.
I have 3 microfiber drying towels for the car.
I can wipe it down with 1, but usually use 2.
Good tip for those who don't know.
LEX
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4,566
Likes: 6
From: Land of 10,000 taxes
Drying Paint Surface Techniques:
If you’re using softened water I see nothing wrong with using an electrical leaf blower dry off your car (just be careful not to bump the hard plastic nozzle against the paint) but if you live in an area that has hard water, it seems that you’d only be accelerating the evaporation process and that those harmful and often damaging alkaline minerals that cause ‘water spot’ damage, would be precipitated out as the water evaporates and must therefore be collecting somewhere, in the seams or crevices perhaps?
My other concern is that these high speed electric (I would be wary of gas powered as it may spew oil) leaf blowers typically have an outlet velocity of 250+ mph. Now if a grain of sand or other small dirt particle were to get ingested in the inlet, it would exit and strike the [paint surface at a very high velocity, the same would be true for any internal fragments or components such as a screw that might come loose from vibration. Just my opinion but I’d prefer not to take this or any other shortcuts either when it comes to drying.
This is my preferred method of drying a vehicle paint surface;
On the final rinse of the washing process remove the nozzle from the hose and ‘sheet’ the water, this greatly helps in the drying process. I have tried many products over the years for drying but I finally found what really works the best, a micro fibre waffle weave drying towel. When they are wet they’re very soft and super absorbent, and glide easily over the surface, the ‘pockets’ in the weave ‘hold’ any dirt or surface debris unlike some other super absorbing products that trap dirt between the towel and paint surface with the potential to cause so serious scratches (never use it when it’s dry and stiff – it can potentially scratch) That goes for whatever you use for drying, including cotton towels. Ensure that the towel is really wet and then wring it out thoroughly before using.
Mop up as much water as you can, wringing out often to keep the absorption efficiency up and wringing out also those harmful minerals in the process. When the only thing left on the surface are tiny micro beads of water (really noticeable on a black car), which I easily wipe off with a pass or two of the highly absorbent waffle towel and leave the surface bone dry.
This process never includes scrubbing, rubbing or applying any pressure whatsoever
If you’re using softened water I see nothing wrong with using an electrical leaf blower dry off your car (just be careful not to bump the hard plastic nozzle against the paint) but if you live in an area that has hard water, it seems that you’d only be accelerating the evaporation process and that those harmful and often damaging alkaline minerals that cause ‘water spot’ damage, would be precipitated out as the water evaporates and must therefore be collecting somewhere, in the seams or crevices perhaps?
My other concern is that these high speed electric (I would be wary of gas powered as it may spew oil) leaf blowers typically have an outlet velocity of 250+ mph. Now if a grain of sand or other small dirt particle were to get ingested in the inlet, it would exit and strike the [paint surface at a very high velocity, the same would be true for any internal fragments or components such as a screw that might come loose from vibration. Just my opinion but I’d prefer not to take this or any other shortcuts either when it comes to drying.
This is my preferred method of drying a vehicle paint surface;
On the final rinse of the washing process remove the nozzle from the hose and ‘sheet’ the water, this greatly helps in the drying process. I have tried many products over the years for drying but I finally found what really works the best, a micro fibre waffle weave drying towel. When they are wet they’re very soft and super absorbent, and glide easily over the surface, the ‘pockets’ in the weave ‘hold’ any dirt or surface debris unlike some other super absorbing products that trap dirt between the towel and paint surface with the potential to cause so serious scratches (never use it when it’s dry and stiff – it can potentially scratch) That goes for whatever you use for drying, including cotton towels. Ensure that the towel is really wet and then wring it out thoroughly before using.
Mop up as much water as you can, wringing out often to keep the absorption efficiency up and wringing out also those harmful minerals in the process. When the only thing left on the surface are tiny micro beads of water (really noticeable on a black car), which I easily wipe off with a pass or two of the highly absorbent waffle towel and leave the surface bone dry.
This process never includes scrubbing, rubbing or applying any pressure whatsoever
100%, excellent points, that last sentance is gospelalthough I may try using a leaf blower as a "one pass" to remove large quantity (particular in mirrors) before finishing with towels
Last edited by cadguymark; Jun 13, 2007 at 05:19 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,087
Likes: 4
From: granville mass
I've tilted my mirrors for almost three years with no issues of wearing them out. Hadn't heard that before, but am not worried about it.
I use the california water blade to get the bulk of the water off, then a MF towel. Was hesitant at first, but have had no issues with scratches on my Zaino'd black Z - believe me, I'd see them. My buddy with a black Porsche tried it and said it scratched or scuffed the paint, maybe a difference in the hardness of the clear coat.
I keep my blade in the original container, in a cabinet away from my kids. I started this practice when I came home and found him washing his dirt bike with my wash mitt. We go REAL clear on what he could touch after that....
I use the california water blade to get the bulk of the water off, then a MF towel. Was hesitant at first, but have had no issues with scratches on my Zaino'd black Z - believe me, I'd see them. My buddy with a black Porsche tried it and said it scratched or scuffed the paint, maybe a difference in the hardness of the clear coat.
I keep my blade in the original container, in a cabinet away from my kids. I started this practice when I came home and found him washing his dirt bike with my wash mitt. We go REAL clear on what he could touch after that....
Last edited by zulatr; Jun 13, 2007 at 07:58 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 104
From: Orange County California
I like that your son used your mitt for the bike, although it's not a good practice of course. But he was "being daddy" and using your tools. Wanted that shiny bike just like dad! I hope you've started him on Zaino already!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,909
Likes: 4
From: Ponte Vedra Beach / London State: Dazed and confused
Quote:...although I may try using a leaf blower as a "one pass" to remove large quantity (particular in mirrors) before finishing with towels
Try 'Canned Air' from a computer store for blowing out water from the mirrors (230MPH leaf blower may be overkill)
Try 'Canned Air' from a computer store for blowing out water from the mirrors (230MPH leaf blower may be overkill)
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
I have an electric leaf blower....I take the nozzle off for the final rinse and the water sheets off. Try the electric type...one that has some guts. I use the "ADAMS" car care system....and am very pleased as well. Good luck.
