Help fixing black issue
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 540
Likes: 0
From: Prosper TX
Help fixing black issue
Below is a close up picture of the front of my 7 month old black C6. The car has 7500 miles on it. The speckling you see is probably "sand blasting" from normal driving but I've never seen anything look this bad. (In fairness, this picture looks worse than reality because its close up from about 6 inches away.)
I'm doing my first complete run through with Menserna 106FF (Nano) on White LC pad, followed by Mens Micro Polish in Gray LC pad. My guess is that's what I should do on the front but thought I'd ask some experts before proceeding.
Any thoughts?
I'm doing my first complete run through with Menserna 106FF (Nano) on White LC pad, followed by Mens Micro Polish in Gray LC pad. My guess is that's what I should do on the front but thought I'd ask some experts before proceeding.
Any thoughts?
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 14,104
Likes: 244
From: South Florida
106FF (nano) actually finishes up very nice on its own and very nice final gloss rating. You could hit it with white pad, and then reuse polish with finishing pad to really jewel the surface.
(and yes that looks like road rash, likely reduced visually but not removed by polish alone)
(and yes that looks like road rash, likely reduced visually but not removed by polish alone)
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 540
Likes: 0
From: Prosper TX
Killr,
Am I wasting my time going from the Nano/White to Micro/Gray? Does that actually jewel up better than Nano/White to Nano/Gray?
Also, for areas like the front where its hard to get the PC and pad in tight spots, do I just hit what I can and forget the rest or can you actually do anything worthwhile with manual application.
Thanks
Am I wasting my time going from the Nano/White to Micro/Gray? Does that actually jewel up better than Nano/White to Nano/Gray?
Also, for areas like the front where its hard to get the PC and pad in tight spots, do I just hit what I can and forget the rest or can you actually do anything worthwhile with manual application.
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,110
Likes: 6
From: Red Sox Nation! RI
I can't tell what part of the car that is, but that really sucks. Sorry to hear it. I don't think 106FF is going to do much in removing that rash, but at least you're starting out with a very mild polish, first
IMO, you've got to consider whether it's worth it to you or not to try and polish the damage out. Considering you got that much road rash in only 7 months, if you buff out the damage now, you won't be able to do that type of correction many more times in the future.
If it was my car, I think I'd make a few passes with SIP and a rotary and see what it looks like. If it still looked pitted, I'd try Touchup 123, finish with 106ff and get a clear bra installed.
IMO, you've got to consider whether it's worth it to you or not to try and polish the damage out. Considering you got that much road rash in only 7 months, if you buff out the damage now, you won't be able to do that type of correction many more times in the future.
If it was my car, I think I'd make a few passes with SIP and a rotary and see what it looks like. If it still looked pitted, I'd try Touchup 123, finish with 106ff and get a clear bra installed.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 96,209
Likes: 75
From: Houston Texas
St. Jude Donor '09
You can't jewel the paint on your C6 with a PC I'm afraid,......sorry.
Vette clear coat is some real hard stuff and the polish your using is a good finishing polish after a correction with something more agressive......A rotary is a better tool for the job to be honest but, your road flecks aren't real bad at this point.....
My opinion,.....If your normal driving routine can do that to your nose section after only 7500 miles, I would seriously look into getting the front end taped off with a protective clear film to maintain the surface as long as possible. Black can be a curse to keep up and small chips from freeway driving will indeed take their toll after time......
Now, to correct what you have......
A PC with an orange LC pad and SIP probably wouldn't get everything out but it's worth a try first to see what you think personally. A rotary with SIP and a wool pad would probably be a better option but some folks don't have the equiptment and don't mind using a PC for several passes to get results. Get some more agressive products or take it to a good detailer who can help you out.....
Black can be a bear so, protect it the best way you can....
Good luck.....
Vette clear coat is some real hard stuff and the polish your using is a good finishing polish after a correction with something more agressive......A rotary is a better tool for the job to be honest but, your road flecks aren't real bad at this point.....
My opinion,.....If your normal driving routine can do that to your nose section after only 7500 miles, I would seriously look into getting the front end taped off with a protective clear film to maintain the surface as long as possible. Black can be a curse to keep up and small chips from freeway driving will indeed take their toll after time......
Now, to correct what you have......
A PC with an orange LC pad and SIP probably wouldn't get everything out but it's worth a try first to see what you think personally. A rotary with SIP and a wool pad would probably be a better option but some folks don't have the equiptment and don't mind using a PC for several passes to get results. Get some more agressive products or take it to a good detailer who can help you out.....
Black can be a bear so, protect it the best way you can....
Good luck.....
Uber Waxer
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 8,651
Likes: 5
From: Hanover MD
Cruise-In 8-9-10-11 Veteran
CI 9, 10 & 11 Car Show Winner
St. Jude Donor '08-'10
You can't jewel the paint on your C6 with a PC I'm afraid,......sorry.
Vette clear coat is some real hard stuff and the polish your using is a good finishing polish after a correction with something more agressive......A rotary is a better tool for the job to be honest but, your road flecks aren't real bad at this point.....
My opinion,.....If your normal driving routine can do that to your nose section after only 7500 miles, I would seriously look into getting the front end taped off with a protective clear film to maintain the surface as long as possible. Black can be a curse to keep up and small chips from freeway driving will indeed take their toll after time......
Now, to correct what you have......
A PC with an orange LC pad and SIP probably wouldn't get everything out but it's worth a try first to see what you think personally. A rotary with SIP and a wool pad would probably be a better option but some folks don't have the equiptment and don't mind using a PC for several passes to get results. Get some more agressive products or take it to a good detailer who can help you out.....
Black can be a bear so, protect it the best way you can....
Good luck.....
Vette clear coat is some real hard stuff and the polish your using is a good finishing polish after a correction with something more agressive......A rotary is a better tool for the job to be honest but, your road flecks aren't real bad at this point.....
My opinion,.....If your normal driving routine can do that to your nose section after only 7500 miles, I would seriously look into getting the front end taped off with a protective clear film to maintain the surface as long as possible. Black can be a curse to keep up and small chips from freeway driving will indeed take their toll after time......
Now, to correct what you have......
A PC with an orange LC pad and SIP probably wouldn't get everything out but it's worth a try first to see what you think personally. A rotary with SIP and a wool pad would probably be a better option but some folks don't have the equiptment and don't mind using a PC for several passes to get results. Get some more agressive products or take it to a good detailer who can help you out.....
Black can be a bear so, protect it the best way you can....
Good luck.....
the Menz system is hands down the best for C5/C6 clearcoats.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 540
Likes: 0
From: Prosper TX
:[/QUOTE]
Now, to correct what you have......
A PC with an orange LC pad and SIP probably wouldn't get everything out but it's worth a try first to see what you think personally. A rotary with SIP and a wool pad would probably be a better option but some folks don't have the equiptment and don't mind using a PC for several passes to get results. Get some more agressive products or take it to a good detailer who can help you out.....
Black can be a bear so, protect it the best way you can....
Good luck.....[/QUOTE]
So, I tried Nano on LC White on PC and you're right...Its maybe 20-30% better but not great. I'm leery of getting a rotary because I've heard that in the inexperienced hands (mine), you can destroy a car. If you or others have any safe ideas I can try with the PC, I'd appreciate them.
3 other questions:
1) on the lower lip of the front, I can't get the PC in more than half way. Same with the ends by the fog lights. How to you polish those areas?
2) You mentioned you can't "jewel" the car with a PC. Can you explain what it means to jewel a car? Is that just the process using progressively lighter polish?
3) I'm getting a lot of polish dust all over the place. Last night, I washed the pads in warm water, soap and simple green. Let soak, rinsed well, dried in the sun today. Almost immediately the dust returns. Am I doing something wrong? (I'm using the equivalent of a ring of around the pad the size of a medium Sharpie) Is the dust a problem? I lightly wipe it off with a micro fiber cloth before starting but the dust continues. Is this normal?
Thanks Dave (and anyone else with advise)!
Now, to correct what you have......
A PC with an orange LC pad and SIP probably wouldn't get everything out but it's worth a try first to see what you think personally. A rotary with SIP and a wool pad would probably be a better option but some folks don't have the equiptment and don't mind using a PC for several passes to get results. Get some more agressive products or take it to a good detailer who can help you out.....
Black can be a bear so, protect it the best way you can....
Good luck.....
[/QUOTE]So, I tried Nano on LC White on PC and you're right...Its maybe 20-30% better but not great. I'm leery of getting a rotary because I've heard that in the inexperienced hands (mine), you can destroy a car. If you or others have any safe ideas I can try with the PC, I'd appreciate them.
3 other questions:
1) on the lower lip of the front, I can't get the PC in more than half way. Same with the ends by the fog lights. How to you polish those areas?
2) You mentioned you can't "jewel" the car with a PC. Can you explain what it means to jewel a car? Is that just the process using progressively lighter polish?
3) I'm getting a lot of polish dust all over the place. Last night, I washed the pads in warm water, soap and simple green. Let soak, rinsed well, dried in the sun today. Almost immediately the dust returns. Am I doing something wrong? (I'm using the equivalent of a ring of around the pad the size of a medium Sharpie) Is the dust a problem? I lightly wipe it off with a micro fiber cloth before starting but the dust continues. Is this normal?
Thanks Dave (and anyone else with advise)!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,110
Likes: 6
From: Red Sox Nation! RI
1. By hand
2. Jeweling - as in buffing to a high gloss, final finish.
3. If your polish is dusting, you are either using too little or working it too long. You should also prime your pad with a few spritzes of water to prime your pad. If you continue buffing with dried polish, you risk damaging or swirling your paint. You can spritz the pad or panel with some water and re-work the polish or lightly wipe it off and start again. 106ff should finish up looking slightly waxy - wipe off with a MF or towel when done. Dusting means you went too far.
A ring around the pad should be fine. If you're laying down the polish on the panel and then wiping some off, then you're using too little polish.
Pads - I give them a quick wash in the sink, kneed out the old polish under the faucet, rinse, then roll them up to wring out. No drying time needed.
2. Jeweling - as in buffing to a high gloss, final finish.
3. If your polish is dusting, you are either using too little or working it too long. You should also prime your pad with a few spritzes of water to prime your pad. If you continue buffing with dried polish, you risk damaging or swirling your paint. You can spritz the pad or panel with some water and re-work the polish or lightly wipe it off and start again. 106ff should finish up looking slightly waxy - wipe off with a MF or towel when done. Dusting means you went too far.
A ring around the pad should be fine. If you're laying down the polish on the panel and then wiping some off, then you're using too little polish.
Pads - I give them a quick wash in the sink, kneed out the old polish under the faucet, rinse, then roll them up to wring out. No drying time needed.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 540
Likes: 0
From: Prosper TX
1) By hand, you mean use the same polish but on a regular foam pad or the foam pad I use on the PC, just not on the PC, by hand?
2) ok - clear on the Corvette must be too tough
3) I've been priming with a few spritzs of QD. I'll switch to water. I've probably been working it too long.
I don't understand this statement:
"If you're laying down the polish on the panel and then wiping some off, then you're using too little polish."
Thanks for the advice!
2) ok - clear on the Corvette must be too tough
3) I've been priming with a few spritzs of QD. I'll switch to water. I've probably been working it too long.
I don't understand this statement:
"If you're laying down the polish on the panel and then wiping some off, then you're using too little polish."
Thanks for the advice!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,110
Likes: 6
From: Red Sox Nation! RI
1. By hand - tight spots that I can't get to with a machine - I generally apply the polish to a MF towel and hand polish. You do the best you can.
2. Yes, Vette clear is hard. The problem is that a PC (IMO) is not powerful enough to do any real paint correction on a Vette unless you want to spend 4 hrs on the same spot or stepping up to more abrasive polishes.
3. Priming your pad with either a QD or water is fine.
I may not have understood you, I was responding to this
It sounded like you are applying polish to the pad, laying the pad on the car's surface to spread out the polish, then wiping some of the wet polish off of the panel before you start buffing. If that's the case, then you're probably using too little polish.
As others have also mentioned, 106ff is a finish, LSP-ready polish. It's awesome stuff, but combined with a PC isn't going to offer enough cutting power to take out the pitting you're trying to remove, IMO.
Also, as mentioned, if Joshvette is local to you, I would shoot him a PM. I've read enough of his posts to know he understands products well and how to use the right ones for the right job. He may be able to fix what you need in no time. Ok, sorry for the book
2. Yes, Vette clear is hard. The problem is that a PC (IMO) is not powerful enough to do any real paint correction on a Vette unless you want to spend 4 hrs on the same spot or stepping up to more abrasive polishes.
3. Priming your pad with either a QD or water is fine.
I may not have understood you, I was responding to this
lightly wipe it off with a micro fiber cloth before starting but the dust continues. Is this normal?
As others have also mentioned, 106ff is a finish, LSP-ready polish. It's awesome stuff, but combined with a PC isn't going to offer enough cutting power to take out the pitting you're trying to remove, IMO.
Also, as mentioned, if Joshvette is local to you, I would shoot him a PM. I've read enough of his posts to know he understands products well and how to use the right ones for the right job. He may be able to fix what you need in no time. Ok, sorry for the book
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Northern Virginia
Couldnt agree more. I think many believe a PC corrects their vette paint, but they havent actually seen real correction with a rotary.