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I was wondering if there is anyway to tell if you have enough clear coat for buffing out scratches, say on a older corvette, or car. Not sure when they started using clear coat? Was it when they stopped using lacquer?
as offered there are several meters available, but usually several hundred dollars to much more. Knowing the metal underneath the paint is needed as some meters are specific to metal versus aluminum. The ones that guage this automatically are usually more expensive.
One individual recently picked up and reviewed a guage from Harbor Frieght. Much cheaper in price and had to be set prior to use, he suggested it worked rather well. Its clearly an option and the lower price end of the scale.
What is commonly held as true, is first only polish as necessary, thats why paint cleansers are also made. Second, always start and use the lightest polish and pad as needed to avoid more than necessary. Hope that helps a bit.
Information I have received said that all Corvettes C4 and forward where clear coated and C3 and down where single stage. So basically when the Corvette plant moved from St. Louis to Bowling Green is when Corvettes starting getting clear coat paints.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe clear coats began around the mid 80's.
As far as buffing them out, that's a whole different puzzle......
Each scratch is unique to itself as each is different in depth, width and length. When buffing out a scratch the main concern is depth, how deep is the scratch will determine if it can be polished out or not.
A good rule of thumb is, if you can catch it with your fingernail then even after wetsanding it there may still be a reminent left over. If you scratch it with your finger nail and feel nothing at all then it may buff out nicely.
I honestly don't think you need a guage to tell if there's enough clear to buff out a scratch.
Josh
Last edited by JoshVette; May 27, 2008 at 09:35 AM.
thanks for the info guys, now I need to know what a paint cleaner is. Can someone tell me what a paint cleaner is vs polish and what brand do you like for a sealer in lue of wax?
as offered there are several meters available, but usually several hundred dollars to much more. Knowing the metal underneath the paint is needed as some meters are specific to metal versus aluminum. The ones that guage this automatically are usually more expensive.
One individual recently picked up and reviewed a guage from Harbor Frieght. Much cheaper in price and had to be set prior to use, he suggested it worked rather well. Its clearly an option and the lower price end of the scale.
What is commonly held as true, is first only polish as necessary, thats why paint cleansers are also made. Second, always start and use the lightest polish and pad as needed to avoid more than necessary. Hope that helps a bit.
paint cleanser --- it is a chemical based cleaner used to remove light oxidation and old waxes and sealants from the paint. Most look like a lotion and is rubbed on and buffed off. Pinnacle and P21S are considered two of the best and easy to use.
polish --- a true polish is an abrasive paste used to remove defects on/in the surface of paint. Term is sometimes used improperly on pure paint sealants as a marketing term. Best use is with a machine and remember pad and polish choice will dicate their benefits. Some are light (finishing) and some are quite harsh (compounds).
sealer --- a paint filler. It is a product used to temporarily cover up scratches by filling them. Usually a couple washes and the product is gone unless protected properly (coated) with a heavy wax or sealant. Most true sealers like Megs #7 will additional wetness and gloss but have no protection abilities.
paint cleanser --- it is a chemical based cleaner used to remove light oxidation and old waxes and sealants from the paint. Most look like a lotion and is rubbed on and buffed off. Pinnacle and P21S are considered two of the best and easy to use.
polish --- a true polish is an abrasive paste used to remove defects on/in the surface of paint. Term is sometimes used improperly on pure paint sealants as a marketing term. Best use is with a machine and remember pad and polish choice will dicate their benefits. Some are light (finishing) and some are quite harsh (compounds).
sealer --- a paint filler. It is a product used to temporarily cover up scratches by filling them. Usually a couple washes and the product is gone unless protected properly (coated) with a heavy wax or sealant. Most true sealers like Megs #7 will additional wetness and gloss but have no protection abilities.
I agree with all of this but the "sealer" definition. I would say that definition is not accurate of a sealant you really described a glaze. A sealant is a protection product not a filler product. A cover up or filler product is a glaze not a sealant.
It can be very confusing as many manufacturers use the terms interchangeably.
A PTG for composite or fiberglass is approx $2500.
Deflesko PosiTector 200 Series (Advanced)
I have the Defelsko Positest DFT Combo which is about $700 for use on cars with metal bodies.
When I started doing extreme corrections such as heavy compounding and now wetsanding by machine. $700 is less headache then paying to have a panel repainted.
You would actually be very suprised to see how little clear coat is removed when doing wetsanding by machine (airsander) as compared to compounding. 2000/4000 will remove about 3-4 microns.
Last edited by gmblack3; May 28, 2008 at 06:56 AM.
You would actually be very suprised to see how little clear coat is removed when doing wetsanding by machine (airsander) as compared to compounding. 2000/4000 will remove about 3-4 microns.
From: Ponte Vedra Beach / London State: Dazed and confused
A digital paint thickness gauge will allow you to measure the film thickness of the paint system which includes the e-coat, primer, base coat (colour) and clear coat, total thickness is usually 4.0 – 6.0 Mils. Check the paint system both before and after wet sanding and this will tell you how much paint has been removed.
For these reasons all car manufacturers now specify that the paint thickness be measured in 0.1mil, or 1/1000th of an inch before and after any wet sanding or buffing.
The following are the maximum allowable clear coat reductions the major USA car manufacturers will allow, without compromising the clear coat; Chrysler- 0.5 mils, Ford – 0.3 mils, GM – 0.5 mils
wet sanding sounds scary to me as I am just really getting into detailing hopfully soon I will be able to do that. Do you have a link that explains the procedure? Thanks
wet sanding sounds scary to me as I am just really getting into detailing hopfully soon I will be able to do that. Do you have a link that explains the procedure? Thanks