tomiboy

I have an 09 JSB coupe with about 5K miles on it. It has some light scratches on it. I normally apply Klasse AIO followed by Klasse sealant glaze by hand. I just got your PC kit. What pads and products should I use now to make it perfect again? I also have Megs 2.0 NXT, and some Zymol carnuba. The kit had white and orange pads, I believe, and a couple of swirl removers

The kit I got is PC-7424-SPDXP
That worked great on a 2002 Altima, but I knew I needed more on my beater so I bought a yellow pad and some XMT 4

Now I want to do my 09 C6 coupe. What products should I use. If I need to buy something other than what I already have let me know. I use the Klasse twins and the finish is pretty good, no swirls, but I can see some very faint scratches here and there.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

The Vettes clearcoat is harder than the Nissan, so even with light marks you might need something a bit more abrasive initially. I would start with a white pad and XMT2, moving to white pad and XMT3 only if it doesnt work. I doubt you will need to move to orange pad and can create lighter marks (called micromarring) with some polishes. If the white pad works with either polish move to the grey pad and one step lighter polish (ie. from 3 to 2, or 2 to one) and this should be all thats needed.

If you cannot find these polishes to work, we often suggest Menzerna SIP/Nano or Megs 105/205 which really seem in tune with the Vettes harder coating. Since you only have very light marks it may not be wise to outlay the costs of these polishes currently.

tomiboy

If you cannot find these polishes to work, we often suggest Menzerna SIP/Nano or Megs 105/205 which really seem in tune with the Vettes harder coating. Since you only have very light marks it may not be wise to outlay the costs of these polishes currently.

Which of these is equivalent to XMT1? I don't have any XMT1, just 2 and 4.

I'll wash, clay, XMT-2 with a white pad, then Klasse AIO and last Klasse Sealant Glaze. Will this work or should I wait and get a grey pad and a finer polish like the Megs or Mezerna mentioned above, before AIO? Sorry for all the questions. I was going to do it tomorrow.

Thanks!!
Tom

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

There is no exact equilvalent, but XMT1 is considered a final polish. XMT2 is more abrasive and likely more in line with 205 and Nano, but the two later (Nano and 205) are unique in their abilities. Menzerna offers diminishing abrasives and actually moves down into a super finishing polishes on their own, often times needing little to no followup with a lighter polish. Megs uses non-diminishing abrasives so it cuts and cuts at same level but actually also finishes well just in need of a lighter polish to finish in more cases.

I personally find Nano and even 085rd from Menzerna more rewarding for light polishing over 205.

Since your finish is new and relatively scar free, I would try the XMT2 and white pad and see your thoughts. If you feel you need more, then consider these others seperate or as a combo.

I wish you were local so I could give you some samples of each and see your thoughts and allow real time testing. Good part of Menzerna and Megs, most of these polishes are sold in smaller 8 ounce sizes now which mean lower cost to test.

Grey and blue pads are finishing pads and can be used with lightest polish to enhance the gloss and reflection of paint. Sometimes called jeweling, or burnishing, it really is following up with the lightest pad and lightest polish to really kick paint up one notch.

As for Klasse AIO, its a chemical cleaner and some light protection. It will prep paint for Sealant and really works well as a two step. If you dont find the polish worked well , just use AIO for protection and skip sealant for now. If you are happy with results indeed apply both.

ltreggerjr

Afternoon Jason,

I purchased a PC 7424 XP kit from Autogeeks. It came with Pinnacle Fine Swirl Remover and orange & white pads. My car is an Atomic Orange Vert. There are some water spots I can't get rid of. Tried the Swirl remover and the orange pad. I now have shiny spots. Is there anything that you can recommmend

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

Often times water spots can be deeply etched into the paint, sometimes deeper than small scratches and swirls. You can polish them, but some can be darn impossible to remove without wet-sanding. I hope a little more polishing works for you, sometimes going to a more abrasive polish and then coming back can help or at least reduce them.

Scott

ghostrunner

I am very confused with the difference or being the same product. I have used both and it seems that the Menzerna cuts faster and the final product is better especially on black. It appears to be more like a mirror finish that is wet. Seems like I can make it have more depth too. I am not a professional, just a nut for super shine on black paint.

You talk about using the Menzerna more than most products but yet on your site where I do my ordering from have noticed at bottom of the Super finish and Nano products it says can buy the Wolfgang if want 16 ounce size.

Please inlighten me if they are the exact product or if any difference. If they are the same why do you not talk about the Wolfgang like you do the Menzerna.

After polishing I go back with Wolfgang sealer and then use the Wolfgang Fusion wax. I know I have to go back every couple weeks and add another layer of the Fusion but seems worth it.

Is this a good course or is there is better one for more shine and depth for the black?

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

Menzerna makes many different polishes within their line of abrasives. The ones that work best, and most often talked about in Vette forums is Nano and SIP. Both products are from Menzernas Ceramiclear line and really designed for harder ceramic coats introduced by MB and Maybach initially.

PBMA, owner of Autogeek and Wolfgang, went to Menzerna with our two polishes and asked if they could collaborate and make our products better. From what I understand, we used their abrasives (same used in ceramiclear line) and our basic polish design. The outcome is quite similar to Nano and SIP. Because we can control our costs and our sizes they offer alot of value and benefit to our consumers, and they fit well in the Wolfgang Line of products perfectly.

I dont personally find a remarkable difference between the two, but others do find some differences and prefer one line versus the other. Now that Menzerna has started offering some smaller sizes in most their polishes I think it really comes down to your opinion. And thats what car care has always been about, your perception and outcome. Right now the polishes to own are Menzerna, Megs, and Wolfgang. All get the job done well and learning eaches benefits and weaknesses is best advice.

ghostrunner

thank you that a very good and honest answer to my question. This is the reason I buy all my car care needs from you guys.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

We truly appreciate every sale and our return customers only make it better. We will continue to upgrade and offer new and exciting products for consumers that we feel move the bar in car care forward. Best part, we all truly enjoy our responsibilities.

KneeDragr

Ive got a question regarding the Cobra waffle weave drying towel I got.

Are those intended to be wet first, like a chamois? Or do you use them dry?

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

While I suggest washing any towel before 1st use, you dont need to wet the towel (guzzlers) before drying. Their weave will trap and suck up water.

Couple hints, dont wash with other laundry MF towels should be seperate and NEVER use fabric softner. Another option for creating less swirls and cutting down steps too, when your drying spray with a detail spray first (your damp finish) and wipe with Guzzler. It will provide some extra lubrication and offer the pop and bling of the detail spray.

Best of luck, and let us know if we can help more !

ALVetteFan

I have a question about pads and polishing. I have Flex polisher with Lake Country pads in Orange, White, Blue and Red. I also have Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover, Finishing Glaze and Deep Gloss Paint Sealant. My question has to do with pads. How many pads (or each type) would I need to go over a midsize sedan without having to stop to clean pads during the job? I have 2 orange pads and 3 each of the others. In other words, do I have enough pads so that "build up" would not be a problem? Also, do you have a recommendation for taking wax off using the buffer? Do I need gold pads, should I use microfiber bonnets, or just do it by hand?

Thanks.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

I suggest a minimum of two pads in each color for each step in polishing. I change at mid point regardless of how coated the pads are to have fresh foam and cutting. If you use too much polish or pads cake easily (full of polish) then consider more.

Typically on a car in rough shape your gonna use an orange pad with your polish of choice. Depending on how much micromarring is present (smaller marks) you may want to use a white pad next with same polish or move to lighter polish. You will then measure outcome but to really amp up gloss/reflection use the FG product with a grey or blue pad for finishing purposes.

Now with all that hard work, we need to protect our time. So we grab the wax or sealant of choice (wolfgang is indeed a great sealant) and decide to apply by buffer or hand. I prefer hand, but if using a buffer consider the lightest pad usually red. Make sure the coat is thin and even for best results, more is NOT better just harder to remove. You can then buff off by hand (my preferred choice since I have such a light even coating), or choose a soft MF bonnet and place over a clean foam pad. Follow up with a light soft MF towel as needed.

Keep some Wolfgang Instant Spritz around for a little quick bling-bling and you are indeed in the best of finishes. Watch out for the compliments and neighbors suggesting their car is next !!

KneeDragr

Unfortunately, the one piece of advice that should always go with this advice is to use less than normal washing fluid.

For some reason the microfiber just sucks up the soap and it took me 30 minutes of hand rinsing to get the majority of the soap out of the guzzler and a purple cobra after washing in the machine.

I still dont know if I got it all, it seems to hold onto the soap more than the water so no matter how much I wrung or how many times I rinsed, it still seemed like maybe there was a bit more in there.

Hard to say, but Im worried that that very small amount of residual soap may be bad for the finish, I'm debating just pitching them.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

MF towels do hold alot of water and anything in the water. They do however release it all in the spin cycle of your washer. You can then place them in the dryer just dont use fabric softner sheets.

If you feel there could be some soap in them, why not rewash them without any soap. You could even add a cup of white vinegar if desired during the rinse stage. Clearly there is NO need to toss them or replace them.

Moving forward I suggest using MF specific soap its designed to wash clean. We offer two under our banner (DP and Pinnacle) and Microrestore is another great product we carry also.

ALVetteFan

I am not familiar with FG. Let's start at the beginning. What would you recommend as the steps and the products to use for each step? I understand you cannot see the micromarring, but I believe it is from someone at the dealership washing the car improperly.

KneeDragr

Sounds good, I will try the White Vinegar tonight.

Chets LS3

So I purchased some 105/205 from you guys, And ive been guineau pigging my rear hatch lid. I still cant seem to get all the little imperfections out of my hatch with orange/105. I got ALLOT out..85% better..and the ones that are still there are just fine scratches. Im concerned if my process is wrong. I watched the video and am going by the steps. It seems when im done i might be going at it too long, as in I can hardly see any residue on the paint.. but when I remove it its obviously there.

I go on speed 3 (7424) rb polish(105) around, then to speed 5.5 (on a 5.5 orange pad) and make very very slow passes.

MY concern is, either possibly rescrtaching it with my towel (which is clean) or doing the process wrong.

im NOT GONNA FAIL, I have all this stuff and im hell bent and determined to kick swirl/scratch removing in the ***!

0Autogeek.net

Try 105/orange, speed 6, high amounts of pressure with slow, overlapping passes.