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Rotary techniques for C6

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Old Oct 1, 2008 | 04:46 PM
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Default Rotary techniques for C6

I'm looking for some help from the pro's on this one. I've got a machine silver C6 that I'm looking to use some SIP and nano on. I've also got some M105. I've got a Makita rotary and lots of Edge pads.

I've got lots of practice with a PC/UDM but am looking for some techniques for the rotary so I can use these polishes to their potential. How to apply product, choose pad density/size, how to move across panels, how to generally work the machine and what to be careful of other than the obvious high rpms.

What are the fundamental differences between using a rotary and R/O?

Thanks.
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Old Oct 1, 2008 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by GizmoZ
I'm looking for some help from the pro's on this one. I've got a machine silver C6 that I'm looking to use some SIP and nano on. I've also got some M105. I've got a Makita rotary and lots of Edge pads.

I've got lots of practice with a PC/UDM but am looking for some techniques for the rotary so I can use these polishes to their potential. How to apply product, choose pad density/size, how to move across panels, how to generally work the machine and what to be careful of other than the obvious high rpms.

What are the fundamental differences between using a rotary and R/O?

Thanks.
http://www.autogeek.net/buffer-polisher.html

slower speeds, rotaries transfer alot of heat. Mask edges as possible.
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Old Oct 1, 2008 | 05:45 PM
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A panel from the junkyard or maybe you have a beater to practice on.

Which edge pads do you have? I like the edge wool alot, but find the lake country the choice for foam.
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Old Oct 1, 2008 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by GizmoZ
What are the fundamental differences between using a rotary and R/O?
A rotary can burn thru the clear coat and paint in certain areas with the quickness if your not careful......A PC is much safer....

It all comes down to experience, trial and error just like everything else.
The previous advice (in reference to a rotary) to get a test panel or a beater to work on is a pearl......

Learn as much as you can, and ask questions....

Good luck....

Last edited by Dave1; Oct 1, 2008 at 10:18 PM.
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Old Oct 1, 2008 | 07:27 PM
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FWIW

High speed rotary polishing and DA polishing (while somewhat like distant cousins) are completely different animals.

In general a rotary will take more steps to complete, but the level of finish will be marginally higher, and the rate of defect removal is much faster.

If you are using the Edge 2000 system, good luck, as I have found the intergrated backing plate makes the pads very stiff and I personally don't like the feel of them.
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Old Oct 1, 2008 | 08:13 PM
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stay away from the m105 until you have some hours under your belt with the rotary.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 07:17 AM
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See article DetailersWiki; Rotary Usage Tips - http://detailingwiki.com/index.php5?...ary_Usage_Tips
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 09:25 AM
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Thanks for the replies. I guess I should have given a little more background on myself.

I have been a member at Autopia for several years now (BlackSunshine there). I've polished out lots of vehicles with a random orbital using products that range from Menzerna, Zaino, Poorboy's, 1Z, Meguiar's, Klasse/Werkstatt, Sonus, Griot's, Adam's, Finish Kare to name a few... basically I've tried a LOT. I have ran a rotary before, but it did not feel comfortable to me, nor do I know what it's "supposed" to feel like. It just felt awkward, like it was going wherever it wanted to and I really didn't have any control over it. I want to become more efficient at defect removal. I'll still be using the random orbit for applying LSPs.

I know the fundamental difference between a rotary and a random orbital are that the rotary is more dangerous in the wrong hands, but is also a better tool in the right hands.

I'm looking for some tips to have the right hands
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by gmblack3
A panel from the junkyard or maybe you have a beater to practice on.

Which edge pads do you have? I like the edge wool alot, but find the lake country the choice for foam.
It's the edge2k system. Not familiar with wool pads at all.

Originally Posted by Dave1
A rotary can burn thru the clear coat and paint in certain areas with the quickness if your not careful......A PC is much safer....

It all comes down to experience, trial and error just like everything else.
The previous advice (in reference to a rotary) to get a test panel or a beater to work on is a pearl......

Learn as much as you can, and ask questions....

Good luck....
Thanks!

Originally Posted by TH0001
FWIW

High speed rotary polishing and DA polishing (while somewhat like distant cousins) are completely different animals.

In general a rotary will take more steps to complete, but the level of finish will be marginally higher, and the rate of defect removal is much faster.

If you are using the Edge 2000 system, good luck, as I have found the intergrated backing plate makes the pads very stiff and I personally don't like the feel of them.
Maybe the edge system was part of the problem with my trial run.

Originally Posted by EVIL_C5
stay away from the m105 until you have some hours under your belt with the rotary.
I've used 105 with great success by hand for isolated touchups.

Originally Posted by TOGWT
See article DetailersWiki; Rotary Usage Tips - http://detailingwiki.com/index.php5?...ary_Usage_Tips
Thanks!
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