After reading the rave reviews about the Flex DA buffer, I'm wondering how big of a difference am I going to see compared to my PC DA? That's a lot of additional dollars to spend when I have a similar machine.

Then I'm looking at the Vac n' Blo dryers fo keep from scratching the paint after I get it detailed. . . Wow, this detailing can get expensive!

Thanks in advance for the opinions, guys.

 

I have both buffers......I think you can correct almost as much with a PC, but it takes a 3rd, 4th, 5th pass to get it as good as with the flex after 1-2 passes. I'd say my seat-of-the-pants estimate is that you save about 30-40% of your time by using the Flex. You may say, "I have more time than money," but considering that I spend the better part of 2 days buffing my car when I do the "thorough" routine...I am happy I bought the flex. Plus, ease of use due to it's features is wonderful (set the ultimate speed on the dial, but you can slowly increase up to that speed to initially spread the polish without moving your hands, instead of--as with a PC--having to take your hand off the front and rotate the dial...it sounds nitpicky but it's really a very nice feature). Also, the Flex also doesn't shake your hands to sh** since it vibrates much less.

 

well I'll tell you the flex is the real deal for correction you can't touch it with a pc you can spend many ,many hours with your pc trying to remove swirls and marring and NOT remove much....The flex is ten times the machine 3x faster and DOES MAJOR CORRECTION with the right polish,pads,and process perfect for our vettes worth every penny
i own and use a rotary, pc and flex i reach for the flex for the vette no holograms

 

I think the Flex is better... no question there... however, that's not to say the PC is inadequate. It really comes down to your specific needs.

If you don't mind taking longer to remove any specific defect, then the PC would be an excellent choice. In my case, I have a surplus of time, and additionally I enjoy working slow, checking my progress every section, and making sure I'm getting my results. I am in no hurry, so the speed benefit of the Flex is of no interest to me.

Also, the PC can easily use 4" pads; whereas it's complicated and more expensive to set a Flex up to do that. I love those 4" pads. I can get into tighter corners and gaps that no bigger pad can do. For example, if you have body side mouldings, a 4" pad will nicely fit the area beneath the molding and above the lower door contour. As well, the 4" pads are more effective on a PC due to the smaller surface area vs. power of the motor. As a matter of fact, I don't even own pads that aren't 4".

Meanwhile, the Flex can power through the work quickly with larger pads; that's great for people with less time, or who do a lot of vehicles, or one vehicle frequently. I've been tempted to move up to it a million times, but in the end... I can't justify it. My PC took a heavily-swirled black Z06 to one of the finest finishes I could ever have imagined. I didn't care that it took a while longer than it could have.

 

There is a ton of info on the subject already in other threads. I' sure more members will also answer but don't forget the search feature!!

Jeff

 

Save some $$ a get a good leaf blower at Home Depot for under 75.00, then put the extra $$ towards the Flex over the PC. Trust me !!

www.autogeek.net

 

I paid about $40 for my Toro at Lowe's a couple of years ago and it works great.
I own a PC that I'm very happy with, but recently took advantage of one of the Geek's sales to buy myself a Flex. The sale discount coupled with the free shipping because the order was more than $95 all added up to a good deal.
I can't wait for Spring to try it out.

 

Okay, you all talked me into it! Just ordered the Flex kit with dimpled pads, and, yes, took advantage of the AGBUCKS discount.

Thanks to everyone for the advice, and thanks to AG for the special deals, probably wouldn't even considered it without them.

 

Since I am new to buffing I been reading these threads about the PC and the Flex.
Seems to me a buffer buffs so bear with me.

Why do people claim the Flex is so much faster?

 

The Flex has more power. Watch this video for a comparison.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yht1uHJLNlQ

 

9600 orbits from 6000 ....seems like a bit faster and stronger motor also.

(those fat headed ones from Sears and Waxmaster move at about 3000 orbits)

 

Doesnt more power mean a rookie would be more likely to damage the finish using the Flex?

 

Not if you're careful. Just keep it moving and you're fine. It's a lot more forgiving than a rotary.

 

I'm no expert, the flex rotate and oscilate at the same time, so you've got to be really trying to damage the paint to do so, and you most likely still won't be able to. One thing I heard is that the Flex have some issues with the internal gear lubrication ? I was ready to purchase one, but hit the breaks, waiting for the Manufacturer to clear this issue.

 

never heard of any gear lubrication issues, a small backing plate issue is the only trouble ever heard of and we have sold thousands. The backing plate was redesigned over a year ago. I have seen some that did not read/follow the directions and properly tighten before first use. Manufacturer has stood behind every sale to date.

 

http://www.autopia.org/forum/machine...01-normal.html

:Like I said, I'm no expert, just wanted to make sure the product is flawless, reading the above post has put a doubt in my mind, that's all.

 

Hands down....the Flex....the difference in Money is really not all that much. Big advantage via the ease of use; feature/function; and ergonomics of the machine useage.

 

Not to be a real smart azz, but you bought a Vette. By the same thinking you likely should not because it mass produced and every so often a lemon or bad unit rears its head. Heck I only have 12k miles on mine and 4 targa's replaced !

Seriously though, the rust is likely the culprit of the end user drying wet pads by spinning them which is a common suggestion but presents water to the drive unit. Thats why we sell and suggest a formal unit that does not introduce water to the unit. http://www.autogeek.net/grit-guard-u...ad-washer.html

The teeth being damaged is likely adding pressure to the unit while at an angle thus forcing the backing plate to rub against the teeth and well cut into them a bit. The Flex does not need the pressure exerted when using the PC to correct paint, and thus "could" be the end user. We have not seen any other damage like this to date. It could also be a bad or worn bearing but quite limited to date.

Finally, in a few units we have seen the felt ring move up and touch the backing plate. (it in fact happened to mine on second use, but more than 10 uses sinces has not reappeared). Because the tolerances are quite small and movement with this felt adapter and backing plate can rub causing the burn marks to back of plate. I installed the replacement quickly, lubed as suggested, and never seen any more movement to date. I believe these felt adapters are being better lubed in all future machines based upon comment.

Again in ending, this unit is very much like the mass produced Vette. Every year as certain "bugs" effect a number of cars the manufacturer replaces the issue and makes changes to the line. I can tell you from personal contact, I would much prefer with Flex versus Chevrolet on a repair should it be needed, they are certainly more Lexus in accomidating their clients.

 

As someone who is most likely going to purchase a Flex in the near future I have a question.
If it ever does needs to be repaired, where does one send it to be repaired?

 

Fair enough, I'll purchase one. However, your analogy to the ZO6 is not quite accurate. I enjoy the heck out of owning the ZO6 and I take the "ZO6-flaws" with it, can't say I'd be enjoying the Flex as much