Engine Detailing
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 66
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From: Klamath Falls OR
Engine Detailing
Being fairly new to the corvette world, how does everyone keep their engine bay so clean. Pressure washers, shampoo, qtips? Being an ex-hard core off road guy, spotless was not my thing. Hose the big chunks off so you didn't get filthy when you fixed it was the normal routine. I mean it was clean, but some of the pictures on this site, the engine bay is cleaner than the inside of my house. Give me some labor saving hints, please.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 785
Likes: 0
From: Rocky Mount NC
Being fairly new to the corvette world, how does everyone keep their engine bay so clean. Pressure washers, shampoo, qtips? Being an ex-hard core off road guy, spotless was not my thing. Hose the big chunks off so you didn't get filthy when you fixed it was the normal routine. I mean it was clean, but some of the pictures on this site, the engine bay is cleaner than the inside of my house. Give me some labor saving hints, please.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,909
Likes: 4
From: Ponte Vedra Beach / London State: Dazed and confused
You need to cover various parts prior to using any cleaning products, sprays or water.
These include;
•Alternator
•Alarm Housing
•Intercooler
•Battery terminals (if not covered already)
•Induction kit cone (if you have one)
•Coil packs
•Intake opening (Ziplock bag)
Tin foil is a better alternative to using cling-film for the alternator, alarm housing etc as it is easier to mold and has greater protection properties. I suggest you use a plastic bag for the induction kit and just wrap it tight over the end to stop any water ingress.
For more information see article “Engine Bay Detailing” in the Detailing School section of Detailing Bliss forum...
These include;
•Alternator
•Alarm Housing
•Intercooler
•Battery terminals (if not covered already)
•Induction kit cone (if you have one)
•Coil packs
•Intake opening (Ziplock bag)
Tin foil is a better alternative to using cling-film for the alternator, alarm housing etc as it is easier to mold and has greater protection properties. I suggest you use a plastic bag for the induction kit and just wrap it tight over the end to stop any water ingress.
For more information see article “Engine Bay Detailing” in the Detailing School section of Detailing Bliss forum...
Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
From: Albany NY
Someone else just asked this question on the forum so I've copied and pasted my response which outlines my engine detailing routine.
1. When doing an engine detail we recommend the engine be a little warm, so turn on the engine for about 1 – 2 minutes and then turn it off. If the vehicle has been driven or is hot from previous driving it may be too warm for an engine detail. If possible park the car in the shade or leave it in the shade as long as possible before starting.
2. When the engine is at a safe temperature you can start the process. Cover any exposed electrical components (usually there are a few electrical plugs you can cover at most) and anything else you do not want water in with aluminum foil, saran wrap or something similar. Cover any exposed air filters and intakes so they don’t flood with water.
3. Spray the engine with a light mist of water. Spray degreaser over areas with grease build-ups and other heavy deposits. Avoid spraying metals and other mechanical pieces. We recommend a 3:1 dilution of Poorboy's World Bio APC, Optimum Power Clean, Chemical Guys Grime Reaper, P21S Total Auto Wash, etc. Start spraying it low or deep in the engine and work your way up towards more easily accessible areas. Let it sit for approximately 1 - 2 minutes. If you use a stronger degreaser you may want to rinse it sooner.
4. Spray down everything to remove all the degreaser and dirt and grime with a light mist from a hose. You don't want to use high-pressure water or tons of water if possible. Some areas may need to be wiped down with a rag or with a brush to break up heavy deposits. The debris should be loose now and fall off easily, if possible don't rely on pressure from the hose to break up the debris.
5. Now I spot treat any areas that didn't get clean. I'll use an old rag and spray some degreaser on it and clean up any areas I see that need a light touch up. Don't forget to clean the hood that has been flipped up. After your are done spot treating tough stains rinse the engine bay down again with a light mist.
6. Make sure you have removed the tin foil or saran wrap and all other products used in the detail from the engine bay. Start the engine and let is run for at least 1 – 2 minutes to help dry some of the water. Be careful touching the vehicle after because it can get hot fast. Then finish drying anything that may need it.
7. Now I recommend treating all the (non-mechanical) vinyl, plastic and rubber pieces with a protectant such as the 303 Aerospace Protectant. Apply this to a cloth and wipe down anything that’s rubber, vinyl and plastic that’s non-mechanical. This will help prevent premature fading and keep the surface looking great. The 303 Protectant has a low gloss matte finish that looks great and helps prevent dust build up. Additionally if you have any exposed metal you can polish them now. We really like the deep polishing power of the P21S Finish Restorer. You can also apply a sealant to any painted areas in the engine bay or the under side of the hood where the paint is exposed.
8. Step back and admire a clean and sharp looking engine bay.
If you have any questions about this process please let me know.
Greg @ Detailed Image
1. When doing an engine detail we recommend the engine be a little warm, so turn on the engine for about 1 – 2 minutes and then turn it off. If the vehicle has been driven or is hot from previous driving it may be too warm for an engine detail. If possible park the car in the shade or leave it in the shade as long as possible before starting.
2. When the engine is at a safe temperature you can start the process. Cover any exposed electrical components (usually there are a few electrical plugs you can cover at most) and anything else you do not want water in with aluminum foil, saran wrap or something similar. Cover any exposed air filters and intakes so they don’t flood with water.
3. Spray the engine with a light mist of water. Spray degreaser over areas with grease build-ups and other heavy deposits. Avoid spraying metals and other mechanical pieces. We recommend a 3:1 dilution of Poorboy's World Bio APC, Optimum Power Clean, Chemical Guys Grime Reaper, P21S Total Auto Wash, etc. Start spraying it low or deep in the engine and work your way up towards more easily accessible areas. Let it sit for approximately 1 - 2 minutes. If you use a stronger degreaser you may want to rinse it sooner.
4. Spray down everything to remove all the degreaser and dirt and grime with a light mist from a hose. You don't want to use high-pressure water or tons of water if possible. Some areas may need to be wiped down with a rag or with a brush to break up heavy deposits. The debris should be loose now and fall off easily, if possible don't rely on pressure from the hose to break up the debris.
5. Now I spot treat any areas that didn't get clean. I'll use an old rag and spray some degreaser on it and clean up any areas I see that need a light touch up. Don't forget to clean the hood that has been flipped up. After your are done spot treating tough stains rinse the engine bay down again with a light mist.
6. Make sure you have removed the tin foil or saran wrap and all other products used in the detail from the engine bay. Start the engine and let is run for at least 1 – 2 minutes to help dry some of the water. Be careful touching the vehicle after because it can get hot fast. Then finish drying anything that may need it.
7. Now I recommend treating all the (non-mechanical) vinyl, plastic and rubber pieces with a protectant such as the 303 Aerospace Protectant. Apply this to a cloth and wipe down anything that’s rubber, vinyl and plastic that’s non-mechanical. This will help prevent premature fading and keep the surface looking great. The 303 Protectant has a low gloss matte finish that looks great and helps prevent dust build up. Additionally if you have any exposed metal you can polish them now. We really like the deep polishing power of the P21S Finish Restorer. You can also apply a sealant to any painted areas in the engine bay or the under side of the hood where the paint is exposed.
8. Step back and admire a clean and sharp looking engine bay.
If you have any questions about this process please let me know.
Greg @ Detailed Image
