What is best way to clean engine in 04, modertly dusty . Anyone had problems with "hoseing it down with water"? Thanks

 

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!! DOnt just "hose" it down. your computer will be screaming at you later. take your time. polish all by hand and you will be rewarded.

 

Yes, be careful with any hose. You can direct spray a certain section if necessary, but not a random all-over hosing.

I was thinking about getting a portable air compressor and using that to blow out the dirt and sand I get sucked up into the engine bay. Anyone try this?

 

Here is my engine detailing routine:


1. When doing an engine detail we recommend the engine be a little warm, so turn on the engine for about 1 – 2 minutes and then turn it off. If the vehicle has been driven or is hot from previous driving it may be too warm for an engine detail. If possible park the car in the shade or leave it in the shade as long as possible before starting.

2. When the engine is at a safe temperature you can start the process. Cover any exposed electrical components (usually there are a few electrical plugs you can cover at most) and anything else you do not want water in with aluminum foil, saran wrap or something similar. Cover any exposed air filters and intakes so they don’t flood with water.

3. Spray the engine with a light mist of water. Spray degreaser over areas with grease build-ups and other heavy deposits. Avoid spraying metals and other mechanical pieces. We recommend a 3:1 dilution of Poorboy's World Bio APC, Optimum Power Clean, Chemical Guys Grime Reaper, P21S Total Auto Wash, etc. Start spraying it low or deep in the engine and work your way up towards more easily accessible areas. Let it sit for approximately 1 - 2 minutes. If you use a stronger degreaser you may want to rinse it sooner.

4. Spray down everything to remove all the degreaser and dirt and grime with a light mist from a hose. You don't want to use high-pressure water or tons of water if possible. Some areas may need to be wiped down with a rag or with a brush to break up heavy deposits. The debris should be loose now and fall off easily, if possible don't rely on pressure from the hose to break up the debris.

5. Now I spot treat any areas that didn't get clean. I'll use an old rag and spray some degreaser on it and clean up any areas I see that need a light touch up. Don't forget to clean the hood that has been flipped up. After your are done spot treating tough stains rinse the engine bay down again with a light mist.

6. Make sure you have removed the tin foil or saran wrap and all other products used in the detail from the engine bay. Start the engine and let is run for at least 1 – 2 minutes to help dry some of the water. Be careful touching the vehicle after because it can get hot fast. Then finish drying anything that may need it.

7. Now I recommend treating all the (non-mechanical) vinyl, plastic and rubber pieces with a protectant such as the 303 Aerospace Protectant. Apply this to a cloth and wipe down anything that’s rubber, vinyl and plastic that’s non-mechanical. This will help prevent premature fading and keep the surface looking great. The 303 Protectant has a low gloss matte finish that looks great and helps prevent dust build up. Additionally if you have any exposed metal you can polish them now. We really like the deep polishing power of the P21S Finish Restorer. You can also apply a sealant to any painted areas in the engine bay or the under side of the hood where the paint is exposed.

8. Step back and admire a clean and sharp looking engine bay.

Greg @ Detailed Image

 

Go to your local auto parts store and buy a can or two of engine degreaser. When you're ready to get it done, use a plastic bag to cover the alternator and stuck a large towel over the battery area. Remove fuel rail covers. Shake can well. You can soap the rail covers in a bucket of soapy water if you like or use the can for it, but I expect you to empty this can on the engine. The can should spray hard and far so there's no need to stand close. Focus on the areas with lots of gunk, around the fuel injectors, the side of the block, the exhaust. Get it everywhere. You don't want to aim for the air filter though. It's ok if splashes get to it. Again, even if it gets everywhere, you want to empty the entire can on it. When done, let it sit for like an hour (the can might say different, so read to make sure). After said time, I like to take a finger to the fuel injector area and rub hard against the grease. Most of it should break up, depending on how gunky yours is. Take your hose, set it to a shower setting (don't jet stream it), and blast away. You want to soak the engine and get as much grease off as possible from everywhere you hit with can. Don't get to close with the hose when spraying though. Don't spray on the alternator, even if its wrapped, or at the battery, or air filter. When your done with that, start the engine and let it run up to temps. This'll burn off the water on the motor. When done, use a nice sealing solution to keep it shining.

 

I'd be real careful with hosing down a C5 engine compartment, particularly due to the knock sensors below the intake manifold. They aren't sealed well, and can get soaked, causing them to fail. When I installed my LS6 manifold and OPS, I sealed my knock sensors with RTV. I have yet to wash down the engine bay with water..

 

When I had my street rod, I sprayed the entire engine with Simple Green, let it sit for 3-5 minutes, sprayed it off with a fine mist of water, blew off the excess water with my compressor.
On the C5, I do it all by hand after blowing out the sand, etc from the hard to reach areas. Takes a bit longer, but I'm concerned about water in the electronics.

 

This method also works good for me. I mastered this technique when I had my '93 that had the infamous optispark .

I use simple green diluted. It's not great on aluminum full strength.

 

You need to cover various parts prior to using any cleaning products, sprays or water.

•Alternator
•Alarm Housing
•Intercooler
•Battery terminals (if not covered already)
•Induction kit cone (if you have one)
•Coil packs
•Intake opening (Ziplock bag)

This is not an exhaustive list, nor is it marquee specific, so use common sense

Tin foil is a better alternative to using cling-film for the alternator, alarm housing etc as it is easier to mold and has greater protection properties. I suggest you use a plastic bag for the induction kit and just wrap it tight over the end to stop any water ingress.

For the intercooler the best way to cover is to get a flat sheet of cardboard and just cut it to size so it fits and covers the fins. Cardboard will normally protect the fins for the duration of the washing. It will get soaked so discard after the wash.