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PorterCable Pad Question

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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 11:36 PM
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Default PorterCable Pad Question

I just got this new in the box. I see it comes with one rather thick pad. Can I use this to apply Rejex ???

I know I have a tool to do real finishing on the car but am not ready for that.

I track my car and get lots of black track turd marks which become a real pain in the butt to remove. You have to use WD40 or some abrasive that removes the sealant (Rejex), then you have to wash and reseal it.

I am hoping I can just power buff the marks off after the track !!!

And I know you don't HAVE TO rub Rejex in when used by hand.

Thanks for any help.

Want to make sure the pad that is supplied is safe to use


DH
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 11:57 PM
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The pad included with the machine is ok to use for light polishing, but I would not use it to apply and remove a pure paint sealant (Rejex) that has no cleaning or abrasive qualities. For this product I would use a finishing pad only and use it last as protection only.

I would highly suggest get a 5 inch flexible backing plate, and some 5.5 inch pads. You will also want some dedicated polishes (abrasive) to remove those black markings and prep paint first. You can use light polishes (finishing) to medium (swirl removers) to heavy (compounds) as desired. Pay close attention to the abrasiveness level on each product, we start light and move more abrasive only as needed.

You can also consider a paint cleansing lotion (chemical cleaner only) if you are not ready for polishing. Pinnacle and P21S make some great ones. You can apply with light pad and then hand buff off quickly and easily before protecting w/ Rejex. These wont remove swirls and scratches, but it will remove dirt / old wax / and likely those black markings.

http://autogeek.net/bupo.html (see videos in center section)
http://autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html (accessories for your PC)
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Killrwheels@Autogeek
The pad included with the machine is ok to use for light polishing, but I would not use it to apply and remove a pure paint sealant (Rejex) that has no cleaning or abrasive qualities. For this product I would use a finishing pad only and use it last as protection only.

I would highly suggest get a 5 inch flexible backing plate, and some 5.5 inch pads. You will also want some dedicated polishes (abrasive) to remove those black markings and prep paint first. You can use light polishes (finishing) to medium (swirl removers) to heavy (compounds) as desired. Pay close attention to the abrasiveness level on each product, we start light and move more abrasive only as needed.

You can also consider a paint cleansing lotion (chemical cleaner only) if you are not ready for polishing. Pinnacle and P21S make some great ones. You can apply with light pad and then hand buff off quickly and easily before protecting w/ Rejex. These wont remove swirls and scratches, but it will remove dirt / old wax / and likely those black markings.

http://autogeek.net/bupo.html (see videos in center section)
http://autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html (accessories for your PC)
Thanks for your advise and thanks in advance for further help

Here is my situation:

I have been using Rejex for 6 years and always have a good coat on the car. It is always garaged and covered at work. It has 3M Clearbra on the front, mirrors, headlights, half the hood, rocker panels and portion or rear fender. But I do HPDE every month. All I want to accomplish is to remove the back marks ..... with as little effort and time as necessary.

I have used different things to remove them including bug&tar remover, WD40 and paint swirl remover. And I have used Rejex as well. And I do understand your point that it does not have abrasive in it. But if I apply enough elbow grease on a micro fiber pad I can get the marks off. And I don't have to go thru any additional steps or products .... just buff the areas affected.

The problem is that I'm getting too old in the arm !!! So I figured this PC would allow me to remove the marks quickly (using Rejex) and then just buff.

If the pad that comes with the PC is not compatible with my mission please advise me on what to get.

PS: I assume the PC is safe to use on the 3M clear bra


DH
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 02:42 AM
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depending on what brand pads, usually the yellow pad is for deeep cutting , orange pad for light cutting, white for polishing and the black pad for finishing detail.

But I have also come across clearbra manufacturers recomending not using the normal products, so if its the clearbra you are trying to clean properly I would check with the clear bra manufacturer and see what they recomend so you dont void there warrranty.

This happened to a buddy of mine with a clear bra on his C6 and the manufacturer recomended some certain product specifically for the. material of the clearbra they sold.
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 08:19 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
Thanks for your advise and thanks in advance for further help

Here is my situation:

I have been using Rejex for 6 years and always have a good coat on the car. It is always garaged and covered at work. It has 3M Clearbra on the front, mirrors, headlights, half the hood, rocker panels and portion or rear fender. But I do HPDE every month. All I want to accomplish is to remove the back marks ..... with as little effort and time as necessary.

I have used different things to remove them including bug&tar remover, WD40 and paint swirl remover. And I have used Rejex as well. And I do understand your point that it does not have abrasive in it. But if I apply enough elbow grease on a micro fiber pad I can get the marks off. And I don't have to go thru any additional steps or products .... just buff the areas affected.

The problem is that I'm getting too old in the arm !!! So I figured this PC would allow me to remove the marks quickly (using Rejex) and then just buff.

If the pad that comes with the PC is not compatible with my mission please advise me on what to get.

PS: I assume the PC is safe to use on the 3M clear bra


DH
I personally would suggest a paint cleansing lotion versus using Rejex to remove these marks. They should help and be easier and can certainly be used with PC. You can use the white included pad initially but you will indeed want more pads soon. (its not my favorite pad to be honest, I tossed mine). I would be very careful using any buffer over a Clearbra and likely best to stay to areas not covered. Allow Rejex to protect your hard work since it was really not designed to remove these black marks.

http://www.autogeek.net/pinpainclean.html
or
http://www.autogeek.net/p2paincleanl.html
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 08:55 AM
  #6  
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I used the supplied pad around the house, tubs counters etc. then threw it out.
I would not use it on any cars finish.
Buy the appropriate pads.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 02:31 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Killrwheels@Autogeek
I personally would suggest a paint cleansing lotion versus using Rejex to remove these marks. They should help and be easier and can certainly be used with PC. You can use the white included pad initially but you will indeed want more pads soon. (its not my favorite pad to be honest, I tossed mine). I would be very careful using any buffer over a Clearbra and likely best to stay to areas not covered. Allow Rejex to protect your hard work since it was really not designed to remove these black marks.

http://www.autogeek.net/pinpainclean.html
or
http://www.autogeek.net/p2paincleanl.html
Okay, I am very confused about the replacement pads/backings, the sizes, materials how they atatch compared to the one supplied with my PC. What is the minimal I can get that is better than the PC pad.

Why is it a concern to use a sealant/wax on 3M clear Bra?? I use Rejex on it without issue. And when it was installed the guy actually buffed it.

Is there a single product that I could use that will remove the marks and and leave a final coat. Or no matter what I use as suggested above, I will still need to go back and use Rejex or similar


DH
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 08:04 AM
  #8  
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Try a 'safe' solvent to remove rubber marks - Wurth Clean Solve is fast acting and will not leave film residue, safe to use on all painted surfaces. Quickly removes track marbles (pill-shaped pieces of rubber shaved off the racing cars' tyres) paint overspray, adhesives, tar, grease, oils, silicone and waxes. Can be used safely on acrylic finishes, aluminium, plastics, vinyl, fabrics, glass, and fibreglass

Last edited by TOGWT; Jan 30, 2011 at 09:18 AM.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 11:28 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
Okay, I am very confused about the replacement pads/backings, the sizes, materials how they atatch compared to the one supplied with my PC. What is the minimal I can get that is better than the PC pad.

Why is it a concern to use a sealant/wax on 3M clear Bra?? I use Rejex on it without issue. And when it was installed the guy actually buffed it.

Is there a single product that I could use that will remove the marks and and leave a final coat. Or no matter what I use as suggested above, I will still need to go back and use Rejex or similar


DH
The pad included with the PC initially is fixed to the pad itself. You cannot simply change pads. So you need to consider a good backing plate that is reusable. They use hook/loop (velcro) so you can attach and remove at will, and also switch pads (lighter to heavier and vice versa) for different polishes. The 5 inch backing plate is designed for pads slightly bigger to protect from touching paint. So you would consider 5.5 inch pads with it.

http://autogeek.net/porter-cable-742...ng-plates.html

Now as for the Clearbra, certain products contain cleaners and heavy abrasives that can effect this covered area. It can discolor over time and turn yellow and unslightly. Products like a pure sealant (Rejex) should not harm as they dont contain these items. They dont however clean paint either, just protect. This is why most suggest polishing or cleaning paint first and then protecting. You essentially are specializing in each area of car care. (Wash, Clay, Polish (or clean), protect).

There are certainly one step products often called AIO's (All In One) that can do it all. They dont specialize in each step, but can do all well. I would likely still warn to stay away from Clearbra specifically with these products as for reasons noted above. Great AIO's include Optimums Opti-Seal, Pinnacles XMT360, and Klasse AIO. We have an entire area devoted to these products to make it easy too.

http://autogeek.net/all-in-one-cleaner-wax.html
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by TOGWT
Try a 'safe' solvent to remove rubber marks - Wurth Clean Solve is fast acting and will not leave film residue, safe to use on all painted surfaces. Quickly removes track marbles (pill-shaped pieces of rubber shaved off the racing cars' tyres) paint overspray, adhesives, tar, grease, oils, silicone and waxes. Can be used safely on acrylic finishes, aluminium, plastics, vinyl, fabrics, glass, and fibreglass
I would be happy to try this if it was safe on clear bra as well.

But I assume if its removing the track turds its also removing the paint. So I still have to go back and seal with Rejex.

If I can remove the marks with Rejex I save an additional step .... thats my whole goal.

Do you have a link for this?


DH
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Killrwheels@Autogeek
The pad included with the PC initially is fixed to the pad itself. You cannot simply change pads. So you need to consider a good backing plate that is reusable. They use hook/loop (velcro) so you can attach and remove at will, and also switch pads (lighter to heavier and vice versa) for different polishes. The 5 inch backing plate is designed for pads slightly bigger to protect from touching paint. So you would consider 5.5 inch pads with it.

http://autogeek.net/porter-cable-742...ng-plates.html

Now as for the Clearbra, certain products contain cleaners and heavy abrasives that can effect this covered area. It can discolor over time and turn yellow and unslightly. Products like a pure sealant (Rejex) should not harm as they dont contain these items. They dont however clean paint either, just protect. This is why most suggest polishing or cleaning paint first and then protecting. You essentially are specializing in each area of car care. (Wash, Clay, Polish (or clean), protect).

There are certainly one step products often called AIO's (All In One) that can do it all. They dont specialize in each step, but can do all well. I would likely still warn to stay away from Clearbra specifically with these products as for reasons noted above. Great AIO's include Optimums Opti-Seal, Pinnacles XMT360, and Klasse AIO. We have an entire area devoted to these products to make it easy too.

http://autogeek.net/all-in-one-cleaner-wax.html
Again, thanks for sticking with me on this.

I am going to order what ever is necessary to achieve my objective, as stated above..........from YOU

I would be willing to ditch the Rejex for another product (AIO) but it has to be save for Clearbra (with Rejex the Clearbra looks great after almost 3 years). So there is no other product that can do this ?????

Anyways, my car is VERY dirty after the track yesterday. So after washing I am going to CAREFULLY try the PC pad and Rejex and will report back later today .......... sorry for being so stubborn (this would be simple if I just want to do a full paint care procedure)


DH
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 01:40 PM
  #12  
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Im sticking with you until your comfortable in your personal choices in order to get the job done to your level and concern. Its not always about the best or spending 24 hours jeweling paint to absolute show status only.

I personally think you should stick with Rejex , its safe and certainly do what you want or need. Since you are not ready to polish paint yet, I still highly suggest using a paint cleansing lotion first and it will be compatible. You will just refrain from using it in areas around the Clearbra just like you would with polishing. You will find this product (cleanser) will really help quickly and prep paint for Rejex and you'll likely see longer and better durability from Rejex too. Best part it can be done by hand or machine with extremely positive results.

If your Clearbra is getting dirty during track day too, then check with dealer and see if you can safely use a product like P21S Total Wash on it prior to washing. You essentially presoak it and might help too. I use it when car is really dirty especially on the lower portions it kinda breaks up the dirt and loosens things prior to washing. You just spray it on and then wash as normal.

As you get more questions, just let me know. I can also be reached on our forum and thru PM's. This is another great way to study up and find some cool video's when needed.

http://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Killrwheels@Autogeek
Im sticking with you until your comfortable in your personal choices in order to get the job done to your level and concern. Its not always about the best or spending 24 hours jeweling paint to absolute show status only.

I personally think you should stick with Rejex , its safe and certainly do what you want or need. Since you are not ready to polish paint yet, I still highly suggest using a paint cleansing lotion first and it will be compatible. You will just refrain from using it in areas around the Clearbra just like you would with polishing. You will find this product (cleanser) will really help quickly and prep paint for Rejex and you'll likely see longer and better durability from Rejex too. Best part it can be done by hand or machine with extremely positive results.

If your Clearbra is getting dirty during track day too, then check with dealer and see if you can safely use a product like P21S Total Wash on it prior to washing. You essentially presoak it and might help too. I use it when car is really dirty especially on the lower portions it kinda breaks up the dirt and loosens things prior to washing. You just spray it on and then wash as normal.

As you get more questions, just let me know. I can also be reached on our forum and thru PM's. This is another great way to study up and find some cool video's when needed.

http://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html
Well I tried out the PC and supplied pad with some Rejex. It quickly took off the black track turd marks. I then just used a MF towel to remove haze and was done.

I used it on paint and clear bra without any apparent problem. Maybe long term use could be an issue with the 3M clear bra material.

I put the pad in a plastic baggie to keep it moist. Do I need to clean it if I only use it with Rejex?

What do you think ???


DH
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
Well I tried out the PC and supplied pad with some Rejex. It quickly took off the black track turd marks. I then just used a MF towel to remove haze and was done.

I used it on paint and clear bra without any apparent problem. Maybe long term use could be an issue with the 3M clear bra material.

I put the pad in a plastic baggie to keep it moist. Do I need to clean it if I only use it with Rejex?

What do you think ???


DH
The solvents in Rejex used to keep it liquid is likely what helped move the marks, as it has no appreciable cleaners or polishes.

I would wash out the pad well and allow to dry. Store in a ziplock clean until next use. I would not store it with Rejex on it as it will dry out over time and could damage pad or finish on car with subsequent use.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Killrwheels@Autogeek
The solvents in Rejex used to keep it liquid is likely what helped move the marks, as it has no appreciable cleaners or polishes.

I would wash out the pad well and allow to dry. Store in a ziplock clean until next use. I would not store it with Rejex on it as it will dry out over time and could damage pad or finish on car with subsequent use.
Probably the solvents like you say and the actual friction of the pad. And don't forget these marks are sitting on top of a good coat of Rejex to start with

Anyways, how do I clean this thing. Obviously not in the washing machine like my polishing MF towels since it has that metal piece on it.

Please recommend what product I should use and what procedure to follow to preserve the pads integrity.

Thanks again!!


DH
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
Probably the solvents like you say and the actual friction of the pad. And don't forget these marks are sitting on top of a good coat of Rejex to start with

Anyways, how do I clean this thing. Obviously not in the washing machine like my polishing MF towels since it has that metal piece on it.

Please recommend what product I should use and what procedure to follow to preserve the pads integrity.

Thanks again!!


DH
I mix up a small bucket of our DP Pad Rejuvinator which is a citrus based cleaner safe for pads. In a pinch many suggest they use an APC or Dawn PowerDisolver.
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Killrwheels@Autogeek
I mix up a small bucket of our DP Pad Rejuvinator which is a citrus based cleaner safe for pads. In a pinch many suggest they use an APC or Dawn PowerDisolver.
I don't know what APC is??

I will order what you recommend will work the best for the pad supplied with the PC.


DH
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 07:07 PM
  #18  
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APC = All Purpose Cleaner (like Amazing Roll-Off)

I prefer this:

http://www.autogeek.net/dp730.html (self mixing)
or
http://www.autogeek.net/foam-pad-cleaner-packets.html (packets, currently on BOGO)
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 12:30 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Killrwheels@Autogeek
APC = All Purpose Cleaner (like Amazing Roll-Off)

I prefer this:

http://www.autogeek.net/dp730.html (self mixing)
or
http://www.autogeek.net/foam-pad-cleaner-packets.html (packets, currently on BOGO)
I actually bought this once a long time ago to clean MF towels and gave it away. Its showing as on back order

What about this stuff you have:
http://www.autogeek.net/xmt-pad-cleaner.html


DH
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 07:30 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
I actually bought this once a long time ago to clean MF towels and gave it away. Its showing as on back order

What about this stuff you have:
http://www.autogeek.net/xmt-pad-cleaner.html


DH
Its nice too , but I prefer the Citrus power of DP to release old polish, waxes and stuff that really gets embedded into the pads.
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