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Post Your Master Blaster Techniques

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Old May 14, 2011 | 07:41 PM
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Default Post Your Master Blaster Techniques

I got my master blaster last week and I have used it twice, once on the vette and once on the DD. My initial impressions are good and I think I will like it much better after I get both cars clayed and Zainoed.

I didn't want to hijack ABQ C6's thread on his dry desert heat challenges, but I wanted to ask what techniques have been learned and which nozzles work best to dry a car quickly and efficiently. Drying a car in summer heat with or without a MB is always a challenge.

Thanks in advance for any tips!
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Old May 14, 2011 | 08:20 PM
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Random thoughts:

Ear plugs - The unit itself isn't loud, but when you're close to the surface of the car, it can get pretty noisy.

I typically use the "stock" cone nozzle. I messed around with a couple of the others, but in the time it would take me to change them out, the car would be dry.

I never point the nozzle directly at the car, but always at about a 30-45* angle. I try to push the water toward a panel gap, then flush the gap downward, toward the ground.

Windows always spot, no matter how quickly I get to them with the MB. A glass cleaner and some blank newsprint (sold at moving supply stores) eliminates these water spots.

Don't forget the wheels!

Getting behind the mirrors is still a challenge, even with a MB.

I don't know that I'd say the MB makes drying "easier", but I will say that I see fewer swirls and I don't end up with those "surprise" dribbles from the brake lights and side markers anymore.

I always follow a wash and dry with at least a QD spray session, if not a sealant/wax.


-Mike
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Old May 14, 2011 | 08:32 PM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by chupr0kabra
Random thoughts:

Ear plugs - The unit itself isn't loud, but when you're close to the surface of the car, it can get pretty noisy.

I typically use the "stock" cone nozzle. I messed around with a couple of the others, but in the time it would take me to change them out, the car would be dry.

I never point the nozzle directly at the car, but always at about a 30-45* angle. I try to push the water toward a panel gap, then flush the gap downward, toward the ground.

Windows always spot, no matter how quickly I get to them with the MB. A glass cleaner and some blank newsprint (sold at moving supply stores) eliminates these water spots.

Don't forget the wheels!

Getting behind the mirrors is still a challenge, even with a MB.

I don't know that I'd say the MB makes drying "easier", but I will say that I see fewer swirls and I don't end up with those "surprise" dribbles from the brake lights and side markers anymore.

I always follow a wash and dry with at least a QD spray session, if not a sealant/wax.


-Mike
Thanks Mike! I also found the the "stock" nozzle seemed to work best and I thought I was missing something.
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Old May 14, 2011 | 08:35 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by C6 Don
I got my master blaster last week and I have used it twice, once on the vette and once on the DD. My initial impressions are good and I think I will like it much better after I get both cars clayed and Zainoed.

I didn't want to hijack ABQ C6's thread on his dry desert heat challenges, but I wanted to ask what techniques have been learned and which nozzles work best to dry a car quickly and efficiently. Drying a car in summer heat with or without a MB is always a challenge.

Thanks in advance for any tips!
I forgot to mention, I found the blaster to be very handy on the inside of my DD today. You can blow off / out all the hard to reach areas next to / under the seats, rear deck, vents, etc., before vacuuming.
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Old May 15, 2011 | 08:30 AM
  #5  
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Be very careful to reduce any potential blow back from standing water under the car and on driveway. I often start at the top of car and work down paying special attention to areas where water can hide. Kinda same rules as a leafblower user.
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Old May 15, 2011 | 07:57 PM
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Start at the top and work your way down. Push all the water to an area that yet has to be dried. Do it in the shade or early in the morning. if the sun is beating down you'll have one good side and one side with water spots. You just cant get to the whole car at once. Move the cone back and forth like you were painting something.

clif
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