Engine Detail
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 9,598
Likes: 960
From: Palm Harbor not far from Sebring Florida
St. Jude Donor '11
Oldtimer
I use nothing but Adams car care products and I used their All purpose Cleaner cut 50-50. However to most common product is Simple Green and also cut it at least 50-50. make sure the engine is cold never try it on a hot engine. Once it is on and use a brush to get the real baked on grim off. Rinse it with a hose with a good nozzle. I run the engine while rinsing and if the engine stumbles I move the hose. Most of the electrical connections are pretty safe just don't flood the engine bay and try not to get it in the intake area.
Administrator
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
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St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
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However to most common product is Simple Green and also cut it at least 50-50. make sure the engine is cold never try it on a hot engine. Once it is on and use a brush to get the real baked on grim off. Rinse it with a hose with a good nozzle. I run the engine while rinsing and if the engine stumbles I move the hose. Most of the electrical connections are pretty safe just don't flood the engine bay and try not to get it in the intake area.
On mine, I simply use a wet Absorber and wipe down the engine bay after each exterior wash. If it is really dusty, I will use a nozzle on my air compressor to blow out the dust before wiping. If there is some grease/oil buildup, I just spray Simple Green on a rag and wipe the mess off.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 9,526
Likes: 12
From: Los Angeles California
I use Meguiars Dash and Trim restorer. My engine bay always looks clean like it's right out of the factory.
http://www.detailing.com/store/megui...rer-12-oz.html
Also, this stuff works WONDERS on the under side of the trunk lid and on the big plastic trim bezel that the windshield wipers sit on. It also works well for removing oxidation on metal/powder coated stuff.
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 14,104
Likes: 244
From: South Florida
I am an advocate of trying to clean engine bays without use of heavy water or pressurized water whenever possible.
I use a blower and can of compressed air, along with a paint brush, to first remove light dirt in the corners. I then spray the corners and harder to reach areas with a rinseless wash, allow to dwell for a couple minutes, and then use a light brush to scrub and wipe with a light clean cloth. I then use a detail spray on all painted areas. I use Klasse AIO to clean painted areas under the hood where waterspots are often found and will protect from future spotting. Finally I dress all rubber surrounds, vaccuum lines, and weatherstripping with 303 protectant (its water based, no silicones to attract and hold dirt).
I use a blower and can of compressed air, along with a paint brush, to first remove light dirt in the corners. I then spray the corners and harder to reach areas with a rinseless wash, allow to dwell for a couple minutes, and then use a light brush to scrub and wipe with a light clean cloth. I then use a detail spray on all painted areas. I use Klasse AIO to clean painted areas under the hood where waterspots are often found and will protect from future spotting. Finally I dress all rubber surrounds, vaccuum lines, and weatherstripping with 303 protectant (its water based, no silicones to attract and hold dirt).
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