When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i personally avoid claying or doing ANYTHING over clear coverings. That stuff scratches and mars so easily than a single grain of sand accidently in the clay will put in scratches you will not be able to remove from the clear cover.
realistically, claying shouldn't harm the clearbra at all but since they scratch so easily and scratches can't be removed from them I just don't do anything with clear coverings except simple wash and wipedown, no claying, no polishing, etc
Others may disagree but this is what I came up with from experience
i personally avoid claying or doing ANYTHING over clear coverings. That stuff scratches and mars so easily thanking a single grain of sand accidently in the clay will put in scratches you will not be able to remove from the clear cover.
realistically, claying shouldn't harm the clearbra at all but since they scratch so easily and scratches can't be removed from them I just don't do anything with clear coverings except simple wash and wipedown, no claying, no polishing, etc
Others may disagree but this is what I came up with from experience
You don't do anything for shine and UV protection?
I owned my own detailing company and every car that came in with the clear coverings I did as described above. It should be fine if you want to put wax over the clear but there really is no need. Keep in mind that wax or sealant is designed for protection of PAINT and/or PAINT CLEARCOAT, not for a plastic type coating. I never saw any advantage or benefit to waxing or sealing over on the clear covering plus it just creates more work trying to get the remaining wax or sealant away from the edges of the clear after applying the product.
The clear covering itself is now your paint protective layer rather than a wax but the clear covering itself doesn't require a wax for protection like paint does.
I don't clay my clear bra. It cost too much to replace if I mar it up. I just wash it like I do the rest of the car and wax it when I wax the rest of the car.
The whole idea of it is that it will take the beating that the paint would otherwise take up there. With that in mind it's inevitable that there might be a battle scar or two. If it gets real bad it might be time to replace it. I replaced a lower portion of my clear bra once already. If that's the plan then I might try a polish on it before I had it replaced. You'd have nothing to lose.
If you have relatively minor things that you want to take out try a cleaner/wax on the clear bra. That might get it a little better.
I was told by my installer that the 3M product he put on my car can be polished just like the rest of the car, but it just doesn't sit well with me and I would only try it as a last resort.
My installer recommended a liquid wax, which I have done. I realize you don't need it for protection, but I'd like to add a little slickness and shine to the car to match the rest of the car.
I've also wondered about using Plexus (sp?) that I use on headlight and taillight lenses?
I owned my own detailing company and every car that came in with the clear coverings I did as described above. It should be fine if you want to put wax over the clear but there really is no need. Keep in mind that wax or sealant is designed for protection of PAINT and/or PAINT CLEARCOAT, not for a plastic type coating. I never saw any advantage or benefit to waxing or sealing over on the clear covering plus it just creates more work trying to get the remaining wax or sealant away from the edges of the clear after applying the product.
The clear covering itself is now your paint protective layer rather than a wax but the clear covering itself doesn't require a wax for protection like paint does.
I install film for a living and highly recommend you wax or apply a sealant to any paint protection film. The film is porous and needs to be protected jsut as the surface of the car. A good sealant will prevent bugs from staining the film and bird droppings from etching it. Leaving it without any wax or sealant will greatly shorten the life span of the film.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
10 Ugly Corvettes That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
My installer recommended a liquid wax, which I have done. I realize you don't need it for protection, but I'd like to add a little slickness and shine to the car to match the rest of the car.
I've also wondered about using Plexus (sp?) that I use on headlight and taillight lenses?
Plexus has butane in it and will cause the film to yellow prematurely. It burns out the film causing it to yellow so I highly recomend not using it on soft plastics such as film. Lights are fine though.
Plexus has butane in it and will cause the film to yellow prematurely. It burns out the film causing it to yellow so I highly recomend not using it on soft plastics such as film. Lights are fine though.