Back in the day I remember people would say "I put 5 coats of wax on" well I did the clay bar on my cars front end last weekend and the I put on a coat of Turtle wax paste wax and it looks pretty good. My question is...... can I now just wash the car with my usual car wash w/carnuba and apply another coat of wax? I'm going to clay bar the rest of the car this week end and I want to protect the paint as much as I can. Any thoughts would be great. I'm thinking to put a few coats of wax on but how long do I need to wait in between coats?

 

Wax can only be layered a couple of times to get a complete coat. Cleaner wax will take off any previously applied wax.

One reason some like sealants, they can be layered.

Wash car and wax again is fine.

Time between application layers will vary by product, most sealants advise 12 hours. Wax I am not sure but I think they can be layered in a much shorter time frame. Again though I THINK the paint will only accept so much wax.

Sealant usually last a lot longer than wax too. Some will apply a sealant and add a wax over it.

If you want to protect the paint as your primary goal I would try a sealant wait the 12 hours between coats and apply three coats.

I really like the Klasse Twins. Zanio is another as is Rejex.

Klasse uses a chemical cleaner as the first step then the sealant glaze to be layered. It puts a acrylic shield over the paint and can be layered. The look is what can be described as a hard candy shell shine, but it will protect for a very long time especially with maintenance like the Sonas sealant spray.

My car is garaged and not a DD and the sealant is still protecting after two years, I do wipe the car before every outing and will usually apply a spray sealant/wax type every 3 weeks or so.

If the OP's car is a DD and not garaged I would wash the car weekly and do the sealant application 3 times a year. You could after each wash apply a glanz or another spray type product to add some protection to the base coat sealant.

DD cars that sit out really need through cleaning more often. I am able just to wipe my car down. I washed it for the first time in almost 24 months just the other day. After a week long trip to Tahoe where the car sat out the whole time.

Wax on my out door sitting 4 runner usually last less than a month. And nothing protects like a good sealant. Klasse is amazing stuff and there are other favorites out there too.

Some one will jump in with better knowledge than I.

 

So if i get this right is that a sealant is better protection than the wax. Which has a nicer shine? Thanx for the reply. Yes this is my DD, I'm the kind of guy that buys a car so I can drive it. My Z28 has almost 319,000 on it now. lol. It's been getting a rest since I bought the Corvette.

 

You got it the sealants give longer and better protection. A wax can be applied over the sealants if desired. And if applying another coat of sealant over the wax the wax should be removed first.

That is why I have returned back to just using the sealant with a sealant compatiable booster.

I do use FK425 often too, It is a last application shine enhancer or even a clean car detailer. I believe with no long lasting attributes though.

 

There are many ways to take care of your cars finish. Some like to specialize in each area of car care and use the best products for each step. Others do well enough with just an AIO (All in one) type product. All choices are better than nothing .....

 

OK so I did some reading and here is what I have so far.

Rejex is supposed to have a nicer shine then wax...
RejeX has a higher refractive index than waxes, so it produces richer, deeper looking colors and a lustrous long-lasting finish.
There is no reason to wax over RejeX. As we’ve already said, RejeX leaves a shinier, longer-lasting finish than wax… and the wax can't adhere well to RejeX!

Klasse also says it has a nicer shine but I can wax over top of it with Carnuba Paste or Liquid wax.

Klasse says do not get it on plastics but Rejex it does not seem to matter.

Which will give me a Better Shine the Klasse or the Rejex?

 

I use to use the Klasse twins regularly and the results were fantastic and lasted a long long time. It's older technology and takes more effort than Rejex. I think the results were comparable but find that I like the results with the Blackfire sealant and it's even easier to apply and remove than Rejex. I find the durability between Rejex and BF about the same. Colors used on: Torch Red Vettte, metallic sliver Toyota Tacoma and pearl white Ford Edge.

 

Klasse is older product. The trick is when applying the sealant glaz to use it very thinly. If to much and it is streaking just use a little detailer to wipe it up. I experience zero application difficulties after the initial trai.


The AIO is a chemical cleaner and on good paint is a breeze to apply and it will clean the
paint. My Vette has never been Claude but I have used the twins from the start, extremely smooth.

 

I was reading up on Blackfire and noticed an Ad for Opti-coat.........this just keeps getting more complicated lol.

 

This might change your mind:http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...need-a-bottle/

 

One reason why I have stayed with Klasse twins.

It works for me very well and I understand the process.

 

OK so not to get this wrong...I'm going to wash the car and remove all of the wax or whatever is on the car now.
I will Clay Bar the car.
I will apply Klasse Sealant Glaze
I will apply my Carnuba car wax
I will buff the wax and then I am done. Is this correct?

 

Yes you can do it the way you have outlined.

If your paint is is like new condition I would forgo the clay and use the Klasse AIO after washing then follow up the the sealant glaze waiting 12 hours between coats. Two coats with the sealant minimum anyway.

The AIO is a paint chemical cleaner and will prep the paint like a clay. Clay is useful if a lot of roughness in on the paint. The AIO will remove this too but maybe not in sever situations like an aggressive clay would warrant. The AIO also adds some protection with its application, but the sealant glaze follow up is best with at least with two coats with 12 hours between for drying. I believe you can apply the first coat of the glaze after the AIO application then do the second coat the next morning.

Understand that clay comes in a variety of abrasive qualities and you can mare the paint if to aggressive or without proper lube. With the AIO this is not a problem because it cleans chemically.

 

So, if we want to try Rejex, then we can just wash and apply Rejex. No waxing?

Sorry to hijack.

 

Yes, Rejex is a sealant and akin to wax. Sealants are popular due to longevity.

Results will vary depending on condition of the paint. Which is why claying and polishing are employed prior sometimes.

Also as discussed above a chemical cleaner can be used like AIO Klasse.

Finshkare 425 is an interesting final layer that really shines and adds a super slick finish, without longevity though. I use it as a second detailer wipe.

The rule is sealant first then a wax ( non cleaner ) if desired, a sealant applied over a wax will not stick.

 

thanx Boomer111 for your help . I just finished claying the entire car and am in the process of waxing it with Turtle wax Premium w/carnuba because that is what I have in the garage right now. The shine is like a mirror . I will be looking to get the Klasse and Mothers Carnuba wax and go over it again before winter sets in. I've never worked with clay before and I have to say I like it, very easy to work with and the paint is as smooth as a baby's a$$. lol. I did drop 1 piece on the ground and tossed it real quick.

 

Your welcome and don't forget to detail the tires and fender wells.

 

Tires yes, fender wells? what do you use on the fender wells?

 

Anything that you would use on plastic trim. I am speaking of the plastic liner.

If in good shape already I use the 303 otherwise something like a black trim restorer product.

Also you want something that will dry and not attract dirt but make the fender liner look uniform in color.

I wipe mine down regularly after detailing the paint using the same cloth so I have never had to use a restorer product say like 'Back to Black".

My car is a non DD and does not see rain.

 

You want to clay bar the car prior to doing any AIO or waxing if it fails the baggy test. Which if you never have clayed the car then you will need to clay it. You will not get the best bond with your sealant or wax if you do not clay bar. And an AIO will not remove the contaminants.