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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 08:37 AM
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Default Buffer trails

I need some advice or expertise, someone recommended that I get a Groits DA buffer and get Meguires M105 and M205 to remove clear coat scratches and minor swirls, the buffer created buffer trails and marring, the M105 is a very abrasive compound, and left really bad marring, then I hit it with the M205 this helped as being a good polish, but what kind of pads do I need and a polish to get rid of the buffer trails and marring. I spent over $200 on the buffer and really expensive compound and polish which someone recommended to me. Please help
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Silverwolf_pup
I need some advice or expertise, someone recommended that I get a Groits DA buffer and get Meguires M105 and M205 to remove clear coat scratches and minor swirls, the buffer created buffer trails and marring, the M105 is a very abrasive compound, and left really bad marring, then I hit it with the M205 this helped as being a good polish, but what kind of pads do I need and a polish to get rid of the buffer trails and marring. I spent over $200 on the buffer and really expensive compound and polish which someone recommended to me. Please help
Chemical guys hex logic orange pad. Then finish with a black pad.

*EDIT*
Make sure to prime your pad.

Last edited by Spectre; Apr 5, 2016 at 09:28 AM.
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Spectre
Chemical guys hex logic orange pad. Then finish with a black pad.

*EDIT*
Make sure to prime your pad.
So do I use the M105 on orange then M205 on black? What do you mean make sure to prime your pad. Just wondering if this will take away my buffer trails and scratches in the clear coat. Thanks
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Silverwolf_pup
So do I use the M105 on orange then M205 on black? What do you mean make sure to prime your pad. Just wondering if this will take away my buffer trails and scratches in the clear coat. Thanks
You may want to find a pro detailer in your area. It'd be a shame to mess up your paint. See if you can watch him do it or at least get some tips while they work out the trails.


How to prime the pad:
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 04:17 PM
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Don't know what size the pads for your machine are, but you could also check out Adam's Polishes for pads, polishes, and videos which explain how to properly detail your vehicle.

Last edited by rkj427; Apr 5, 2016 at 04:17 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 06:03 PM
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Here is a great video on machine polishing!

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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Silverwolf_pup
I need some advice or expertise, someone recommended that I get a Groits DA buffer and get Meguires M105 and M205 to remove clear coat scratches and minor swirls, the buffer created buffer trails and marring, the M105 is a very abrasive compound, and left really bad marring, then I hit it with the M205 this helped as being a good polish, but what kind of pads do I need and a polish to get rid of the buffer trails and marring. I spent over $200 on the buffer and really expensive compound and polish which someone recommended to me. Please help
What pads and color pads (abrasive levels) did you purchase ???

105 is indeed an aggressive swirl remover. It also uses non diminishing abrasives meaning it cuts at the same level from start to finish. Generally speaking, you go to this polish and some thing like an orange Lake Country CCS pads for swirled paint. You make several passes working a small area no bigger than 1/2 a panel at a time. You use full speed on the buffer and enough pressure but not enough to stop the pads movement. You buff off the polish and measure the success versus the other 1/2 the panel. --becareful on edges and corners, consider taping trim.

Once the panel has been polished to a notable level, you move to a lighter abrasive pad and the 205 (same abrasive, continual cutting). This will remove lighter marring (little scratches) and amp up the gloss and reflection. I personally prefer a polish with diminishing abrasives like Menzerna 085rd which breaks down over its use and offers a very high gloss rating too. Its really personal preference as both are considered finishing polishes.

One of the users warned that you should prime the pad. This is getting just enough polish on the pad in advance of polishing to avoid having a bare pad touch paint. Once a pad is primed, you will use only a couple small dime size dots of polish on the pad or making a small then x pattern. If the polish appears to be drying to soon, consider a light spritz of water or pad conditioner.

Last edited by Killrwheels@Autogeek; Apr 5, 2016 at 07:37 PM.
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Killrwheels@Autogeek
What pads and color pads (abrasive levels) did you purchase ???

105 is indeed an aggressive swirl remover. It also uses non diminishing abrasives meaning it cuts at the same level from start to finish. Generally speaking, you go to this polish and some thing like an orange Lake Country CCS pads for swirled paint. You make several passes working a small area no bigger than 1/2 a panel at a time. You use full speed on the buffer and enough pressure but not enough to stop the pads movement. You buff off the polish and measure the success versus the other 1/2 the panel. --becareful on edges and corners, consider taping trim.

Once the panel has been polished to a notable level, you move to a lighter abrasive pad and the 205 (same abrasive, continual cutting). This will remove lighter marring (little scratches) and amp up the gloss and reflection. I personally prefer a polish with diminishing abrasives like Menzerna 085rd which breaks down over its use and offers a very high gloss rating too. Its really personal preference as both are considered finishing polishes.

One of the users warned that you should prime the pad. This is getting just enough polish on the pad in advance of polishing to avoid having a bare pad touch paint. Once a pad is primed, you will use only a couple small dime size dots of polish on the pad or making a small then x pattern. If the polish appears to be drying to soon, consider a light spritz of water or pad conditioner.

Yes pads are going to play a big part in correction work. Maybe you didnt even need to use the 105. Also are you cleaning or changing out the pads? Was the car clayed before correction?

Last edited by Broker99; Apr 5, 2016 at 08:36 PM.
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 08:13 PM
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Chemical guys hex logic orange pad. Then finish with a black pad.
This. Hex logic has been my go to. Although for more cutting action the Meguiars Microfiber cutting pads seem to work quite well. M105 on the orange pad followed with M205 on a white. Finish with your choice of wax/sealant on either red or black.
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 12:33 AM
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On dark colors I have had to work twice with the polish to clean up a heavy M105'ing. I use a white pad or softer for the finishing polish.
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mike100
On dark colors I have had to work twice with the polish to clean up a heavy M105'ing. I use a white pad or softer for the finishing polish.
You certainly can use multiple stages to remove the marring from a more aggressive polish as needed. Perhaps using a less aggressive pad with 105 might help also. The idea behind polishing is simple, start light and move heavier (more aggressive) only as needed.
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 05:42 PM
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I use 105 0n scratches and 205 on swirls. 105 can cause imperfections in paint that Need a less aggressive polish. 8 use orange lake country MFG on both. Black for glaze. I hope I am not doing it wrong.
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Swolff
I use 105 0n scratches and 205 on swirls. 105 can cause imperfections in paint that Need a less aggressive polish. 8 use orange lake country MFG on both. Black for glaze. I hope I am not doing it wrong.
depending on the brand of pads (there is no uniform coloring between manufacturers) generally you should reduce the pad when moving from orange/105 to 205. Now that said if you feel you need the power of the orange pad with 205 , then you likely need another step with lower pad and 205 again to remove any marring induced by the higher abrasive pad.

Consider getting a small handheld flashlight ... I use a Fenix with 800 lumens. Shine on the panel and look at the area off axis. If you see very light faint scratches you indeed need to move to a lighter pad for true finishing.
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 09:17 PM
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I have never stepped down pads with cutting, thanks I will look at that, I cut with same pad grit just changed to new pad and step down polish. I always glaze with finnish pads and hand wax. I have PC dual action what pads would you recommend? I still have a supply of 105 and 205. And lake country MF medium cutting and finnish pads (orange & black).
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 05:28 AM
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What about chemical guys V36 it's like a compound plus polish in a bottle on a hex logic orange pad, honestly should I even use a compound?
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Swolff
I have never stepped down pads with cutting, thanks I will look at that, I cut with same pad grit just changed to new pad and step down polish. I always glaze with finnish pads and hand wax. I have PC dual action what pads would you recommend? I still have a supply of 105 and 205. And lake country MF medium cutting and finnish pads (orange & black).
I am a big fan of Lake Country's Hydro-tech pads. Nice and easy with only -3- abrasive levels. On a PC-XP use a 5 inch flexible backing plate and 5.5 pads. The pads are offered in a thin version too.

http://www.autogeek.net/hydro-tech-foam-pads.html
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