How do you clean your windows?
#2
Drifting
All I use on everything is a couple warm water dampened microfiber's. No streaks
#3
Pro
On the exterior, I wash mine with car wash soap, clay them using the car wash soap or Stoner Invisible Glass. Once clayed I spray Rubbing alcohol mixed 1:1 with distilled water onto a microfiber cloth and wipe the glass down. (take care as to not to get the alcohol on the paint or gaskets). Spray a clean towel with Stoner Invisible Glass and wipe down again. The outside should be clean and no streaks now. I apply a coat of sealant to protect the glass and I use Liquid Glass LG 100.
On the interior I clean the glass with Stoner sprayed onto a towel followed by a wipe down with the alcohol. The alcohol will remove any haze build up. Never use house hold window cleaner as the ammonia will damage the tint on the inside of the glass.
If you are using leather conditioner on your seats STOP. This will cause a haze to form on the inside and will cause streaking that is difficult to remove.
This is how I clean mine.
On the interior I clean the glass with Stoner sprayed onto a towel followed by a wipe down with the alcohol. The alcohol will remove any haze build up. Never use house hold window cleaner as the ammonia will damage the tint on the inside of the glass.
If you are using leather conditioner on your seats STOP. This will cause a haze to form on the inside and will cause streaking that is difficult to remove.
This is how I clean mine.
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
On the exterior, I wash mine with car wash soap, clay them using the car wash soap or Stoner Invisible Glass. Once clayed I spray Rubbing alcohol mixed 1:1 with distilled water onto a microfiber cloth and wipe the glass down. (take care as to not to get the alcohol on the paint or gaskets). Spray a clean towel with Stoner Invisible Glass and wipe down again. The outside should be clean and no streaks now. I apply a coat of sealant to protect the glass and I use Liquid Glass LG 100.
On the interior I clean the glass with Stoner sprayed onto a towel followed by a wipe down with the alcohol. The alcohol will remove any haze build up. Never use house hold window cleaner as the ammonia will damage the tint on the inside of the glass.
If you are using leather conditioner on your seats STOP. This will cause a haze to form on the inside and will cause streaking that is difficult to remove.
This is how I clean mine.
On the interior I clean the glass with Stoner sprayed onto a towel followed by a wipe down with the alcohol. The alcohol will remove any haze build up. Never use house hold window cleaner as the ammonia will damage the tint on the inside of the glass.
If you are using leather conditioner on your seats STOP. This will cause a haze to form on the inside and will cause streaking that is difficult to remove.
This is how I clean mine.
Where can I get Stoner Invisible glass?
#5
Drifting
A lot of that haze is actually the release for plasticizier in the dash (unless you are a((cringe)) smoker
#7
Safety Car
#8
Drifting
I use a couple quality ones first off. I will wipe with a wrung out one first that I use to remove any film. Then a quick wipe with a just barely damp one. There is no large water streaks if you were to call it that after the second wipe but just a trace. In the warm months it's gone within 30 seconds or so. Dead of winter might be a minute or 2.
As was mentioned above Stoners is an excellent product. I rather not use anything. On some dirty smokey ones I work on I will use a little vinegar in the water.
As a side note when using microfibers try to use them for one purpose only. One set for glass-one for polish removal,another for QD and such. Best to also wash separately so as not to cross contaminate the cloth.
Frequent wipe downs on clean glass make it easy to maintain and keep clear
As was mentioned above Stoners is an excellent product. I rather not use anything. On some dirty smokey ones I work on I will use a little vinegar in the water.
As a side note when using microfibers try to use them for one purpose only. One set for glass-one for polish removal,another for QD and such. Best to also wash separately so as not to cross contaminate the cloth.
Frequent wipe downs on clean glass make it easy to maintain and keep clear
The following users liked this post:
FasNuff (05-02-2017)
#9
Instructor
My '89 had severely water spotted glass, and I literally tried everything to alleviate the problem, to include clay. It wouldn't touch it.
So did some looking around, and tried the liquid Bar Keepers Friend, with a nylon scrubbing sponge, it removed every single waterspot on the glass, so well I used it on the inside glass as well, my glass is completely spotless...I then sealed the outside glass with an acrylic sealant, from Hi Temp called 'Terminator' now the water just flows away, I dont even have to use the wipers! amazing stuff.
D.
So did some looking around, and tried the liquid Bar Keepers Friend, with a nylon scrubbing sponge, it removed every single waterspot on the glass, so well I used it on the inside glass as well, my glass is completely spotless...I then sealed the outside glass with an acrylic sealant, from Hi Temp called 'Terminator' now the water just flows away, I dont even have to use the wipers! amazing stuff.
D.
#10
Pro
I buy Stoner Invisible Glass at WalMart. It's $4.00 or so a bottle.
Most of the haze on window interiors is from leather conditioner. Leather conditioner should not be used as these and almost all automotive leather seats are plastic coated (Aniline Leather).
Leather conditioners or any other leather treatment will not absorb into the leather and evaporates sticking to the glass and other surfaces in the car. The conditioner also traps dirt and acts as sand paper on the seats as you get in and out.
I only use distilled water on a microfiber to clean mine and I wipe them down with another microfiber sprayed with Meguiar's X-Press for UV protection. I use nothing else on my interior other than the Stoner and alcohol on the glass interior. I use the distilled water as the water in Central Kentucky has a lot of lime due to all the limestone rock.
Most of the haze on window interiors is from leather conditioner. Leather conditioner should not be used as these and almost all automotive leather seats are plastic coated (Aniline Leather).
Leather conditioners or any other leather treatment will not absorb into the leather and evaporates sticking to the glass and other surfaces in the car. The conditioner also traps dirt and acts as sand paper on the seats as you get in and out.
I only use distilled water on a microfiber to clean mine and I wipe them down with another microfiber sprayed with Meguiar's X-Press for UV protection. I use nothing else on my interior other than the Stoner and alcohol on the glass interior. I use the distilled water as the water in Central Kentucky has a lot of lime due to all the limestone rock.
#11
Pro
My '89 had severely water spotted glass, and I literally tried everything to alleviate the problem, to include clay. It wouldn't touch it.
So did some looking around, and tried the liquid Bar Keepers Friend, with a nylon scrubbing sponge, it removed every single waterspot on the glass, so well I used it on the inside glass as well, my glass is completely spotless...I then sealed the outside glass with an acrylic sealant, from Hi Temp called 'Terminator' now the water just flows away, I dont even have to use the wipers! amazing stuff.
D.
So did some looking around, and tried the liquid Bar Keepers Friend, with a nylon scrubbing sponge, it removed every single waterspot on the glass, so well I used it on the inside glass as well, my glass is completely spotless...I then sealed the outside glass with an acrylic sealant, from Hi Temp called 'Terminator' now the water just flows away, I dont even have to use the wipers! amazing stuff.
D.
I don't know about your 89, but most cars have tint on the glass and its applied on the inside so you have to be careful so as not to damage it.
I would not recommend using that harsh method to clean glass interiors.
I apply the sealant to outside of mine with my buffer and wipe then down as I do the interior each time I wash the car with Mequiar's X-Press. I don't use the wipers on my other cars either and the vette wipers have never been used as it has never been in the rain.
The following users liked this post:
Lpe403 (04-21-2017)
#12
The haze is the plastic/vinyl/glues off gassing.....
The following users liked this post:
joeybsyc (07-15-2017)
#13
Pro
Not true.....you should check out how the interior fabrics are made now. Automotiveleather today is no longer as it once was, but sprayed with a colored urethanecoating over the raw leather to achieve uniform color. The car manufacturersnow call the leather seats “leather trimmed seats” as the majority of the seatis vinyl and only the middle sections are actually leather. The bolsters, head rests, seat backs, etc.are vinyl. Aniline is the product that is used in most of today’s cars, even inthe higher end cars such as Corvettes, Ferraris and Lamborghinis. Aniline leather has been dyed and coated witha pigment or colored urethane paint to provide a uniform color and is thenclear coated. The urethane paint coatinghides the pores, blemishes, scars and other defects found in naturalleather. This painted coating alsoallows the seat manufacturer to match the vinyl material being used on themajority of the seats, door panels, dash, etc. Put drops of water on your leather seat and watch it bead up. It does not get absorbed as it’s plasticcoated.
The plastic coating,as I have mentioned, prevents penetration of leather conditioners into theleather and ends up just sitting on the seats until it evaporates or isabsorbed by clothing. The conditioner will also absorb dirt as it sits on theseat and gets ground into the seat and seams as you get in and out causingadditional wear and tear, especially in the seams. You are basically sanding yourseats each time you get in and out with the dirt trapped in the conditioner onthe seats, and are degrading the coating applied to the leather. Leatherconditioners contain various products such as silicone, wax, aloe, mink oil anda good deal of water that cause issues with car glass as the water evaporatesand carries with it the oils or silicones and stick to the glass and otherinterior surfaces leaving a greasy film that is hard to clean off.
The water inthe conditioners evaporates and carries with it many of the oils or siliconesused and stick to the glass and other surfaces. Baby wipes and other packagedcleaner wipes are not to be used on aniline leather either, as many of thesewipes have alcohol or other cleaners harmful to this plastic coating. Babywipes have a PH value designed to neutralize urine and this will degrade theplastic coating on the leather. Justbecause it’s good for a baby’s butt does not mean it’s good for your leatherseats.
Just about any professional detailer will tell you this. I spent some time with people from Corvette when we designed the Museum addition and learned a lot about what they purchase for these cars.
The following users liked this post:
retired08 (04-23-2017)
#14
Drifting
I'm not in the mood for a pissing match but here's a little background. 1978 I started getting paid to detail ( does that make me a professional- no). In those days it was wool pads and rotary. I learned how to paint needless to say. In '83 I started painting race bikes and continued to detail- money was in the painting. In 1990 I started a bushiness detailing and painting for till 2006. A job offer came that I could not pass up. To this day I maintain a select client base and will only take on paint corrections that are a challenge as my time is too valuable.
I am well versed in the care of modern leather! I am also very well versed in today's plastics ( remember the offer I could not pass up!)
I as well as may other do not use a leather conditioner. While we will agree that it is useless and a waste on todays leather-it is not the cause of hazing.
Plastic( a very general term) is very hard by nature. Chemical additives called plasticizers are added to keep the plastic soft. You've seen the old dashboards cracked- this is from the outgassing or releasing of the plasticizers. It becomes more towards it natural brittle state. UV exposure accelerates this process. Read up on what causes the hazing. Learn how to detail and slow this process ( 303 Aerospace protectant is a good start).
Continue to NOT use leather conditioner on your seats- I agree 100%. A damp rag is more than sufficient and will help to moisturize the leather.
AS for that guy Ron- he's a highly experienced detailer who has detailed with the likes of a rookie named Mike Phillips. He might have learned a trick or two himself. Read and see his post his and elsewhere. He spends enough on products to subsidize a small country. He gives un-colored reviews of the products he tests. Save a lot of us money and time. To this day I've come to value his opinion as well as my own experience
I am well versed in the care of modern leather! I am also very well versed in today's plastics ( remember the offer I could not pass up!)
I as well as may other do not use a leather conditioner. While we will agree that it is useless and a waste on todays leather-it is not the cause of hazing.
Plastic( a very general term) is very hard by nature. Chemical additives called plasticizers are added to keep the plastic soft. You've seen the old dashboards cracked- this is from the outgassing or releasing of the plasticizers. It becomes more towards it natural brittle state. UV exposure accelerates this process. Read up on what causes the hazing. Learn how to detail and slow this process ( 303 Aerospace protectant is a good start).
Continue to NOT use leather conditioner on your seats- I agree 100%. A damp rag is more than sufficient and will help to moisturize the leather.
AS for that guy Ron- he's a highly experienced detailer who has detailed with the likes of a rookie named Mike Phillips. He might have learned a trick or two himself. Read and see his post his and elsewhere. He spends enough on products to subsidize a small country. He gives un-colored reviews of the products he tests. Save a lot of us money and time. To this day I've come to value his opinion as well as my own experience
#15
<---- Just a hack
I'm not in the mood for a pissing match but here's a little background. 1978 I started getting paid to detail ( does that make me a professional- no). In those days it was wool pads and rotary. I learned how to paint needless to say. In '83 I started painting race bikes and continued to detail- money was in the painting. In 1990 I started a bushiness detailing and painting for till 2006. A job offer came that I could not pass up. To this day I maintain a select client base and will only take on paint corrections that are a challenge as my time is too valuable.
I am well versed in the care of modern leather! I am also very well versed in today's plastics ( remember the offer I could not pass up!)
I as well as may other do not use a leather conditioner. While we will agree that it is useless and a waste on todays leather-it is not the cause of hazing.
Plastic( a very general term) is very hard by nature. Chemical additives called plasticizers are added to keep the plastic soft. You've seen the old dashboards cracked- this is from the outgassing or releasing of the plasticizers. It becomes more towards it natural brittle state. UV exposure accelerates this process. Read up on what causes the hazing. Learn how to detail and slow this process ( 303 Aerospace protectant is a good start).
Continue to NOT use leather conditioner on your seats- I agree 100%. A damp rag is more than sufficient and will help to moisturize the leather.
AS for that guy Ron- he's a highly experienced detailer who has detailed with the likes of a rookie named Mike Phillips. He might have learned a trick or two himself. Read and see his post his and elsewhere. He spends enough on products to subsidize a small country. He gives un-colored reviews of the products he tests. Save a lot of us money and time. To this day I've come to value his opinion as well as my own experience
I am well versed in the care of modern leather! I am also very well versed in today's plastics ( remember the offer I could not pass up!)
I as well as may other do not use a leather conditioner. While we will agree that it is useless and a waste on todays leather-it is not the cause of hazing.
Plastic( a very general term) is very hard by nature. Chemical additives called plasticizers are added to keep the plastic soft. You've seen the old dashboards cracked- this is from the outgassing or releasing of the plasticizers. It becomes more towards it natural brittle state. UV exposure accelerates this process. Read up on what causes the hazing. Learn how to detail and slow this process ( 303 Aerospace protectant is a good start).
Continue to NOT use leather conditioner on your seats- I agree 100%. A damp rag is more than sufficient and will help to moisturize the leather.
AS for that guy Ron- he's a highly experienced detailer who has detailed with the likes of a rookie named Mike Phillips. He might have learned a trick or two himself. Read and see his post his and elsewhere. He spends enough on products to subsidize a small country. He gives un-colored reviews of the products he tests. Save a lot of us money and time. To this day I've come to value his opinion as well as my own experience
The following users liked this post:
joeybsyc (07-15-2017)
#16
#17
If used properly this will take care of your problem
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ing-trick.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ing-trick.html
#18
Race Director
For windows, Sprayway seems to work the best when used with newspaper to wipe off with. If the outside of the windows are in really bad shape you can use a glass polish with a DA to bring back the surface shine. then use RainX to seal.
#20
Team Owner
I use Invisible Glass and several crumbled up pages (black & white) from the newspaper.