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In reality it would be better if the water sheeted and not beaded. But hype and the sales machine would have the general public believing otherwise. Beading in and of itself is not a true indication of protection still left. I treat LSP's like break pads. If they are gonna last 30,000 miles I'll change them at 20,000.They may still have life left -but why risk failure and more work later for a cheap fix.
Beading however is intoxicating and can wow. This is a car that sits outside 24/7-driven about 100 a week. Washed twice with Bathe ( not +). 2 months in on CanCoat applied without any prep. Not topped. I prefer this over coating ( although I do apply them to other's cars ).
I treat LSP's like break pads. If they are gonna last 30,000 miles I'll change them at 20,000.They may still have life left -but why risk failure and more work later for a cheap fix.
Agreed 100%. Funny you mentioned brake pads, because I always look at LSPs like tires. They may have an advertised 50,000 mile life span, but that "life" is prorated. I am swapping them before the life span is up!
Beading however is intoxicating and can wow.
For sure. Like you, I much prefer sheeting over beading. However, when there are beads, I want them super-tight and round. Surface tension means everything! I get tired of all the beading pictures people post on the FB detailing pages, though. I mean, any protection should provide beads. Whenever someone in those groups posts beading pictures just to brag about how awesome their fresh ceramic coat is, I usually post a picture of my 24/7/365 outside-only daily beater and it's 4-month old protection that survived the 2018/2019 Chicago winter and was still beading: Cheap-as-hell Rejex sealant topped with cheap-as-hell 3D "HD Poxy".
In a previous life as a Manufacturers Rep, one of my lines (I cannot remember who???), owned one of the wax companies. We sat in a presentation on the product and they said in Europe the consumers wanted "sheeting" product and USA wanted beading.
2025 C8 Stingray of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C8 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Guys its very simple to get the water to "sheet" off your car.....once you have finished the wash process simply remove the nozzle from the end of your hose and do a "flood" rise......most of the water will "sheet" off the paint....then finish the job with either a blower or a purpose microfiber like the one in the link below....its the best drying towel I've ever had in my hands.....this is one size but the come in multiple sizes....I just picked up two more today at Hershey AACA Fall Meet that are the perfect size for finishing up your work...they are 16" x 16".
Yup. Flood rinsing is great after a wash but I'd like some nice hydrophillic sheeting after a heavy rain.
I have yet to try any Dr. Beasley's products. I am ashamed, too, because they are local to me. There is a really great local pro detail shop I follow on YouTube called "Chicago Auto Pros", and they praise Dr. Beasley's stuff. Had him in one of their videos, too. More stuff I need to spend money on. LOL
I like that he broke this down for me. I thought I should be after "hydrophillic" properties, but it makes more sense that what I am after is "hydrophobic sheeting".
Sheeting can refer to two different effects: water fully wetting a surface and sliding off (hydrophilic sheeting) and water repelling from a surface without beading (hydrophobic sheeting).
Beading
I am swapping them before the life span is up!
