Removing Decals
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Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Tucson
Removing Decals
I am in the process of purchasing a used 2012 Grand Sport. It has what appears to be aftermarket vinyl stripes (decal) on the hood and trunk lid. I've seen some videos on how to remove decals using hot air, peeling, cleaning with vinegar, etc. Naturally, I'm concerned about damaging the paint.
If it is not safe to remove decals I can live with them, just prefer the car in original condition.
Any tips, or thoughts?
If it is not safe to remove decals I can live with them, just prefer the car in original condition.
Any tips, or thoughts?
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I am in the process of purchasing a used 2012 Grand Sport. It has what appears to be aftermarket vinyl stripes (decal) on the hood and trunk lid. I've seen some videos on how to remove decals using hot air, peeling, cleaning with vinegar, etc. Naturally, I'm concerned about damaging the paint.
If it is not safe to remove decals I can live with them, just prefer the car in original condition.
Any tips, or thoughts?
If it is not safe to remove decals I can live with them, just prefer the car in original condition.
Any tips, or thoughts?
I'd like to get an idea of the size of the decals, where exactly they are and if possible discern what they are made of by looking at them.
Thanks
Last edited by Loki 6; Sep 22, 2020 at 10:33 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Tulum, MX
Yep heat to soften the glue. You can also use Rapid remover from RapidTac. On some that are old they will peel in little pieces so have patience. I will also use a widget to aid in removal. It does not harm the paint.
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From: Sun Coast of Florida
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I would be more worried about the paint. Depending how long the decals have been on the vehicle won't the paint be faded on the exposed parts compared to the underneath?
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You've got a good amount of work to do and the key here is to be patient, be thorough and don't rush it.
Here is what I would have by my side to do this job.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if you need any further assistance and good luck my friend!
Loki6
Here is what I would have by my side to do this job.
- heat gun or blow dryer that is about 1500 watts or higher - you'll need to generate heat to soften the adhesive
- good quality dental floss or preferably fishing line- you will use this to saw away (left and right motions) underneath the decal to pry it off the clear coat
- wooden cuticle sticks - the kind your wife uses when she does her nails - wood will not scratch the clear if you need to push and jab at the ends to get them started
- something to help break down the remaining adhesive left behind - I like CarPro Tar-X, Citrol 266, or Goof-Off Pro Strength - Stoner's Tarminator will probably work, but I've never used it for this application.
- soft micro fiber towels to apply and move around the products. You'll probably want to toss these when done. Don't attempt to wash them and reuse these as these chemicals can be harsh.
- a good IPA or panel wipe to remove the crap I just mentioned above - you could also use a good waterless wash, but get that stuff off the clear coat within a few minutes MAX - don't let these things 'bake" into the clear coat - flush quickly please! I like CarPro Eraser but in a pinch you can make a basic one at home with distilled water and basic Isopropyl Alcohol from CVS
removes adhesives and saps, and sticky stuff - also try CarPro Tar-X
Ok so here is the basic process and a little bit of explanation - I've done this many times in debadging cars :- Take the heat source and start it in a corner area that you will be able to use to start to peel away - don't start in the middle. You'll want to keep the heat moving, don't just focus it there for 60 seconds at a time - try to hit if for no more that 30 seconds, take it away for about 10 seconds, and then go back. This is the patients part! The aim here is to get a corner to start to lift so you can use that as your starting point.
- If you see a corner is coming lose, see if you can push it up a little with the cuticle stick, you want to be able to get a piece of fishing line between the vinyl and the car. Don't be tempted to use your fingernail - you will scratch the clear coat.
- When you finally begin to get the fishing line underneath, start a basic "sawing motion" go left to right primarily and then begin to move the line further up the decal attempting to lift more up.
- You will likely need to leave the line in place and pick up the heat gun and begin softening the area right above where the line is - trying to soften the adhesive that the line is attempting to saw through.
- You'll probably want to start using a little bit of the chemicals to get up under the vinyl if you can - creating a moist mix of product and heat from the gun - so the line has an easier job of sawing through.
- Eventually you will get to a point where a good amount has lifted off, so you might just need to use the heat and peel off without having to use the line to saw through.
- As you remove an entire strip - go over the clear coat with the chemicals to get rid of any adhesive that remains. You don't want that baking back into the clear - get it off while it is still relatively warm from the heat gun and "disturbed" from agitation.
- Before you move on to the next section - use the IPA/Panel Wipe or a good waterless wash to flush the chemicals off the clear coat - don't allow them to dry or bake in.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if you need any further assistance and good luck my friend!
Loki6
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 687
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From: Tucson
That is my thinking and I suspect the decals were on for a number of years.
Last edited by Ralphp; Sep 23, 2020 at 10:54 AM.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 687
Likes: 145
From: Tucson
You've got a good amount of work to do and the key here is to be patient, be thorough and don't rush it.
Here is what I would have by my side to do this job.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if you need any further assistance and good luck my friend!
Loki6
Here is what I would have by my side to do this job.
- heat gun or blow dryer that is about 1500 watts or higher - you'll need to generate heat to soften the adhesive
- good quality dental floss or preferably fishing line- you will use this to saw away (left and right motions) underneath the decal to pry it off the clear coat
- wooden cuticle sticks - the kind your wife uses when she does her nails - wood will not scratch the clear if you need to push and jab at the ends to get them started
- something to help break down the remaining adhesive left behind - I like CarPro Tar-X, Citrol 266, or Goof-Off Pro Strength - Stoner's Tarminator will probably work, but I've never used it for this application.
- soft micro fiber towels to apply and move around the products. You'll probably want to toss these when done. Don't attempt to wash them and reuse these as these chemicals can be harsh.
- a good IPA or panel wipe to remove the crap I just mentioned above - you could also use a good waterless wash, but get that stuff off the clear coat within a few minutes MAX - don't let these things 'bake" into the clear coat - flush quickly please! I like CarPro Eraser but in a pinch you can make a basic one at home with distilled water and basic Isopropyl Alcohol from CVS
removes adhesives and saps, and sticky stuff - also try CarPro Tar-X
Ok so here is the basic process and a little bit of explanation - I've done this many times in debadging cars :- Take the heat source and start it in a corner area that you will be able to use to start to peel away - don't start in the middle. You'll want to keep the heat moving, don't just focus it there for 60 seconds at a time - try to hit if for no more that 30 seconds, take it away for about 10 seconds, and then go back. This is the patients part! The aim here is to get a corner to start to lift so you can use that as your starting point.
- If you see a corner is coming lose, see if you can push it up a little with the cuticle stick, you want to be able to get a piece of fishing line between the vinyl and the car. Don't be tempted to use your fingernail - you will scratch the clear coat.
- When you finally begin to get the fishing line underneath, start a basic "sawing motion" go left to right primarily and then begin to move the line further up the decal attempting to lift more up.
- You will likely need to leave the line in place and pick up the heat gun and begin softening the area right above where the line is - trying to soften the adhesive that the line is attempting to saw through.
- You'll probably want to start using a little bit of the chemicals to get up under the vinyl if you can - creating a moist mix of product and heat from the gun - so the line has an easier job of sawing through.
- Eventually you will get to a point where a good amount has lifted off, so you might just need to use the heat and peel off without having to use the line to saw through.
- As you remove an entire strip - go over the clear coat with the chemicals to get rid of any adhesive that remains. You don't want that baking back into the clear - get it off while it is still relatively warm from the heat gun and "disturbed" from agitation.
- Before you move on to the next section - use the IPA/Panel Wipe or a good waterless wash to flush the chemicals off the clear coat - don't allow them to dry or bake in.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if you need any further assistance and good luck my friend!
Loki6
Back to my original thought, what is the chance of damaging the paint?
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To me, chemical damage would mean did whatever product that was used as an adhesive damage the clear coat after all this time - creating a adverse chemical reaction. At this point we don't actually know what was used. If the decal was applied and utilizes similar adhesive properties as car wraps, I don't see a major problem...but again, we don't know for sure.
Mechanical damage would be when someone actually goes to remove the decal, do they scratch or damage the clear coat because of the technique they used to do so. and perhaps the products they used in the overall removal process - as an exaggerated example - did they use a blow torch and battery acid to get it the freakin' thing off.
I suggest you talk to guys that install PPF, or guys that do vinyl wraps over body shop guys. Bring the car there for a proper inspection and you will have your answers.
I hope this helps, and I hope you can get it done correctly. Good luck Ralph!
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From: Tucson
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I have used mild mineral spirits on a microfiber to clean up residue, never had a problem, I would be more concerned with fade after they are gone.. other than that a little heat and they should come off. If there is fade, you may even have a set made custom that you like even more.. options are endless.. Car looks great now tho' 
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Tucson
I have used mild mineral spirits on a microfiber to clean up residue, never had a problem, I would be more concerned with fade after they are gone.. other than that a little heat and they should come off. If there is fade, you may even have a set made custom that you like even more.. options are endless.. Car looks great now tho'