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Took my 50th out for a quick run to the Target store about 30 miles away. Checked weather forcast only 6 percent chance of rain, no problem right ? Rained on me 96 percent of the time ! When I got it home I was surprised how little dirt was on it so I did a rinseless wash with ONR and Beadmaker after.
Beadmaker gloss shot.
Took my 50th out for a quick run to the Target store about 30 miles away. Checked weather forcast only 6 percent chance of rain, no problem right ? Rained on me 96 percent of the time ! When I got it home I was surprised how little dirt was on it so I did a rinseless wash with ONR and Beadmaker after.
Beadmaker gloss shot.
What form of protection was on the paint (before the drive) that helped repel the road contamination...Beadmaker?
Griots Boss finishing sealant with Beadmaker topper. I have tried some of the ceramic detail sprays as a topper but dont really like how they wipe off.
What form of protection was on the paint (before the drive) that helped repel the road contamination...Beadmaker?
Loki, What paint sealer would you suggest on naked paint after correction? I have been using Beadmaker Paint Protectant over Wolfgang 3.0 paint sealer on black cars. Anything better in your opinion?
Loki, What paint sealer would you suggest on naked paint after correction? I have been using Beadmaker Paint Protectant over Wolfgang 3.0 paint sealer on black cars. Anything better in your opinion?
Do you want to stay with a polymer like Beadmaker or try an SiO2 product?
Either way, Looking for max shine since one of the black cars is a C-6 serious show car
OK...not talking about a "proper" coating here are my favorites - I've either use these first hand or know folks "in the know" who have used these and I've inspected their cars and discussed their experiences using these products. There is nothing here that I would hesitate to install on any car I own. I'm going to make this as simple and as "non bottle collectionist" as possible.
For Polymers:
I'd definitely apply PolishAngel Master Sealant for the layer on top of the virgin clear coat and then I'd maintain it with any one of the new Apex Surface Protection Rehydra Bead or Sheet or Artdeshine Bio Nano Pro or Nano Gloss Paint Sealant.
For SiO2:
I'd apply TAC Systems 1 Step Master or Polish Angel Cosmic Glasscoat V2.0 for the base layer. To maintain it I'd use Polish Angel High Gloss or Polish Angel Cosmic Spritz or Xtreme Solutions Topper.
For both:
I'd treat the car on special occasions to a few spritzes of TAC Systems Shinee wax for a little extra pop..every now and again.
Apex Surface Protection (ASP) Hydra-Sheet and Hydra-Bead a PHENOMINAL products for slickness and ridiculous clarity TAC Systems 1 Step Master & Shinee Wax Made from only the finest German crack and conjured witchcraft
There are plenty of "over the counter" as well available locally that work fine don't feel you have to spend tons of money.. you can use Griot's Garage systems, Adams Polish even some turtle wax products at your local auto places have and do just fine.. It's not all about $$ it's about results that your happy with
Last edited by Gixxerman; May 11, 2021 at 03:48 PM.
I used bead maker on my car when I first got it. The beads are amazing. The amount of water spotting it left behind after a rain was so bad I never used it again. Will be using Apex details rehydra sheet over top of their metal oxide coating in the future. If that doesnt work better then I will give up on keeping the car clean lol.
I have used everything under the sun. Lots of good options. I was a big Zainos guy for a LONG time. Lately, its the $10 Turtle Wax Seal n Shine. Holy chit that stuff is tough and long lasting. I won't say the shiniest but shines enough for me. Good Luck in your search. It will drive you crazy.
Been doing a lot of paint corrections the past several weekends. Most of these were one-day jobs for under $350. That means I do what I call my "Enhance & Protect" package. Wash/decon, one-step with 3D One and Buff and Shine 50/50 pads (Oberk and Jescar yellow foam pads if softer paint), and a good spray sealant. With the exception of my friend's '78 Chevy truck and 700+AWHP 911 Turbo (which now wear Griot's Ceramic 3-in-1 Wax), all the other vehicles shown below are covered with a base coat of ICE Seal 'N Shine and a top coat of ICE Spray Wax. The gloss is good, and the protection rivals entry-level ceramic coatings. For the ridiculously cheap price and ease of application, I have no reason to use anything else for these one-day jobs. Literally, I think I paid like $20 or less for both ICE spray products, and I still have plenty left. I prefer the gloss and hydrophobics of Jescar Bead-It and the Griot's 3-in-1 products, but for the best durability for the dollar, I will run with the ICE combo every time.
Been doing a lot of paint corrections the past several weekends. Most of these were one-day jobs for under $350. That means I do what I call my "Enhance & Protect" package. Wash/decon, one-step with 3D One and Buff and Shine 50/50 pads (Oberk and Jescar yellow foam pads if softer paint), and a good spray sealant. With the exception of my friend's '78 Chevy truck and 700+AWHP 911 Turbo (which now wear Griot's Ceramic 3-in-1 Wax), all the other vehicles shown below are covered with a base coat of ICE Seal 'N Shine and a top coat of ICE Spray Wax. The gloss is good, and the protection rivals entry-level ceramic coatings. For the ridiculously cheap price and ease of application, I have no reason to use anything else for these one-day jobs. Literally, I think I paid like $20 or less for both ICE spray products, and I still have plenty left. I prefer the gloss and hydrophobics of Jescar Bead-It and the Griot's 3-in-1 products, but for the best durability for the dollar, I will run with the ICE combo every time.
Been busy on my weekends this spring...
I wish I could get $350 for doing one. I get $200 and spend about 15-20 hours correcting and use seal and shine topped with Bead maker.
Then we own a Honda that had the door repainted last year. The guy left a ton of sanding marks and peel so i spent about an hour correcting it last year. Once I got it in my new garage with my wall lights I could still see sanding marks. So I decided to get them out and I buffed literally 1 minute with my Porter cable and went right through the clear! I couldn’t believe it. I have wet sanded a bunch on my other cars and never went through, but I go right through with a PC! My painter was cool about it and agreed to fix it if I would pay for the supplies.
"I get $200 and spend about 15-20 hours correcting" Looks like you do really nice work, bro. Charge more for your time! My weekends are worth way more than $10 per hour. I will charge my closest friends and family $200, but that just gets them maybe a 6-8 hour day of an exterior wash and polish. Either an AIO polish like Meg's D166 or 3D Speed, or a one-step with 3D One and then Seal 'N Shine. I just tell them up front that all the defects will likely not be removed.
I have been using bead maker on all my vehicles for past 2 years - works great, paint feels sooooo soft, and when caught in the rain I get home and depends on road - rain washes the car
Beadmaker
