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Got a quote to detail my '18 F250 that needs some love after 3+ years of auto car washes. About $1000 to detail and wax (not ceramic). Obviously not concerned about a show finish, but I'd like to purchase a tool I can use on my '66, boats, etc. I've used a big Dewalt buffer on boats and composite molds, but that monster can quickly "leave a mark". I'm experienced with buffing but not really valuable vehicles. I have a cheap electric DA I bought from Walmart, but it would take forever to do an F250.... What do you pros use? Cost really not an issue. Want electric not pneumatic. Thx
Griots Garage, Porter Cable, Rupes, Flex DAs. I have an old buffer but don't use it.
Which one I buy would depend on all the vehicles and the conditions of the paints, some might need more umph than others to do the job.
I still wouldnt use pads bigger than about 6-6.5" so it would still take me a few days to properly do an F250, maybe a week if I did two-steps of compounding and then finishing.
I prefer high quality tools myself-- that being said--- The brand names would be limited to rupes and flex. Now you will probably hear some folks chime in on the griots tools, they are OK, quality tools for the most part but certainly not high end tools. Since you specified random orbital and not forced rotation, the better choice is in my opinion the rupes MARK III line, & if your going to be doing boats go with the 21 ( though I would use a rotary on the boat ). Change out the backing plate to the 5" and you will have what you need as far as the polisher is concerned and will last for many years to come
Good luck
Last edited by macguyver; May 16, 2021 at 03:55 PM.
To each their own I would personally consider my Griot's G21 I have used for years without a single problem. "professional" I think it is a subjective opinion.. people should use what they want to. Personally flex would not even make my personal list at all.. In the end it's very much subjective to personal opinions and experiences.. and possible price range as well.
I have done 2 full size trucks on the side in the past month. I use the Porter Cable polisher. I spent about 15-20 hours on each truck using an orange pad from chemical guys and Meguairs ultimate compound. It’s a good combo for me.
I wish I had pics of the black F150 before I started because a dog had jumped up on the drivers door and a trash can left a big scratch on the right side. It took time but it all came out. As mind numbing as it is slower is better. The faster rotary or aggressive pads will save time but also runs the risk of going through the paint.
My wife’s brand new Acura RDX had 2 clear coat flaws in the hood. I used 2500 paper to smooth them out and then used my polisher to polish it back to a mirror shine.
I want to get a Makita rotary but just not sure I’m comfortable enough using a rotary yet.
I want to get a Makita rotary but just not sure I’m comfortable enough using a rotary yet.
Be careful what you wish for-- A person who has not "Mastered " a rotary WILL leave holograms, problem with that is most people dont know what they are and sometimes take some time before you notice them
To each their own I would personally consider my Griot's G21 I have used for years without a single problem. "professional" I think it is a subjective opinion.. people should use what they want to. Personally flex would not even make my personal list at all.. In the end it's very much subjective to personal opinions and experiences.. and possible price range as well.
I agree to each their own- I purchased a new G21 and it would not even come on when I pulled the trigger , and they have a bad rep for getting hot-- read up on them if you doubt me. Glad yours is working out for you.
Flex is a world wide leader in polishers and power tools and thats just a fact-- griots is just another also ran compared to flex and rupes.
If you look @ what the big boys are using- doubt if you would find even one using a griots, and if you did the ratio would be hundreds to one
Last edited by macguyver; May 17, 2021 at 08:38 PM.
Personally, for my needs, the Griot's G9 is perfect. I have yet to find a reason to purchase any other machine. I only detail as a side gig, maybe correct 5 or 6 cars per month. The little "also ran" G9 tackles some really trashed paint quite nicely. With 1000W of power, low vibration, comfy ergos, and a lifetime warranty, they could charge 50% more for it. Looking back, I maybe should have considered the G15, but it is virtually the same machine. I have used a few other "pro" orbitals, and the only thing they seemed to provide more of was vibration. If I did detailing for a living, I can definitely see the desire to have a FLEX forced rotation machine, as there are many times I get annoyed with orbitals stalling, but other then that, I don't need anything else. I have never owned an older Griot's machine, but the current generation is doing very well in "big boy" reviews. Some reviews are even surprising...
Very grateful for the feedback guys. I used search here and the G9 came up often with good reviews. Lots of instruction on Griots site. Thot I made up my mind. Will check out the Rupes and the other recommendation. I’ll be rereading your posts.
Very grateful for the feedback guys. I used search here and the G9 came up often with good reviews. Lots of instruction on Griots site. Thot I made up my mind. Will check out the Rupes and the other recommendation. I’ll be rereading your posts.
Appreciate your help!
Started w the original Griots 6" DA, a solid machine that did a lot of good work. Easy to master w 8mm throw, would fulfill the needs of an occasional hobbyist. Since replaced with the Griots G9 (9mm throw) which I haven't tried but i imagine its a good hobbyist choice.
Got curious and grabbed a Rupes LHR15 Mk2 and did OK at first, some frustration as technique is key to Rupes effectiveness.
Curiosity reared its head again so picked up a Flex 3401 forced rotation; beast of a machine, not much technique required as it never stalls. Bit of a rough ride, after 4-5hrs you feel it, especially with a 6.5" pad. Using the Flex is like kicking the door down to get in a room, Rupes is like picking the lock; either way gets ya in the room, just different techniques...and after effects.
Spent some time with some pros who showed me a few Rupes tricks and haven't picked up the Flex since.
Also grabbed a Griots BOSS21 as i was doing a lot of large, flat panel vehicles which are tailor made for a 21mm throw machine like the BOSS21; it's been a great machine for me in those situations.
For me, the Rupes 15 is preferred; smooth and effective once you get the hang of it. Lotsa Chinese knock-offs of the Rupes & Boss now but never tried any.
Still need a 3" machine for small spaces or at least a 3" plate for something like GG6 or G9 (I'd guess you could bolt one on a G9, dunno for sure). I'm certainly no pro, just a hobbyist.
Lotsacubes, no matter what you purchase of the recommendations here, your rotator cuff will love it. The results will become addicting and your vehicles will never look as good! Watch out, you’ll find yourself working on family vehicles next!
I recently bought the adams polishes 15mm and 12mm swirl killers. They are basically a long throw orbital polisher. I've been having good success with them on my wifes car and my daily with the blue and white foam pads. I will be doing the vette this weekend along with a professional level metal oxide coating. I will try and upload a couple pictures of the daily when I get home. The biggest part of everything is the TIME prepping the car for correction. Just to give you an idea, it took me two hours to wash the hood, windshield, front bumper, and front fenders and all I had time to correct was the hood. I am hoping that I can spend all friday night prepping the vette, correct it in the morning and get the first coat on by mid day saturday. It's basically going to take me all weekend. A thousand dollars is a lot of money, until you realize how much time it takes to make the paint look good again. Here is what I will be using:
Soak with diluted Multi x
Purple power vehicle and boat pressure wash concentrate (diluted)
Tar X soak few minutes
Carpro Iron X soak few minutes
Dry car
Clay entire car
May possibly do another quick wash after the clay
Compound pad correcting
Polish entire vehicle
Carpro reset to get rid of all residues before ceramic coating
Apply Apex details metal oxide coating (artdeshine collab)
Apply second coating
Then coating with Apex detail Rehydra sheet (sheeting topper, beading sucks)
Hopefully after all of that the car will look even better than it already does, then its on to performance upgrades!
Lotsacubes, no matter what you purchase of the recommendations here, your rotator cuff will love it. The results will become addicting and your vehicles will never look as good! Watch out, you’ll find yourself working on family vehicles next!
LOL!! John, I am old... and well liked enough by my SILs to con them into doin family stuff.... if I provide the tools. I generally try to buy upper grade equipment. Reading about Rupes now. Name sounds like a STD. Cheers
I have a Makita 9227 which is the classic detailing rotary. It's a good machine and, if you're not a dummy about it, it's not really that easy to burn the paint. That said, I have been a dummy and burned paint with it in the past. From my experiences I suggest people think about it like this - the higher speeds on a rotary aren't "what you want to get the machine up to". Think of it instead as, "a way to save time on flat panels where you are stable on your feet and can easily keep the machine moving and under control." If you're not experienced with it or not in an absolutely stable position just keep it on low speed and be careful about edges and it will be fine. Despite having the other machines I describe below, I actually use the rotary on low speed for tight areas sometimes where the vibration of an RO doesn't let you get right up to the edge (the transition between the trunk lid and rear window on the C6, for example).
I have also had a Porter Cable 7424 (also classic detailing machine) forever. Not all that effective for polishing but if you're willing to spend forever doing it, it will eventually work. It is not powerful enough for gelcoat at all. It is phenomenal for applying wax or sealant though. Much easier to get a thin coat when applying by machine.
More recently I bought a Rupes LHR 21 MKII to split the difference when I bought the Vette. It does a good job of splitting the difference. Long throw on a random orbital makes a big difference. I haven't tried it on gelcoat but found it to be both safe and reasonably fast on paint. When I got it I bought a 3" backer and pads for the porter cable to use that on small areas, which worked out well.
The Flex buffers with the forced rotation seem like a really really good idea, and I kind of wish I bought one of those instead of the Rupes. Can't comment on how they are to use, obviously.
Respect and appreciate everyone’s time and input. Rupes too much money for a 2-3 times a year tool. Lots of happy Griots users here. Boats, truck, wife’s SUV (new ST!) leaning towards the G15. Kinda in between G9 and G21. More research but manufacturer choice I think done.
Anyone use a max shine? I have one I used on my truck last year after my porter cable bit the dust. Is 15mm and worked great for me. Going to hopefully get a 2022 C8 so need a mini. Oh I used the inexpensive Turtle Wax Cermanic products for black vehicles. Seems to hold up nicely on my outdoor vehicle. Once a month or so upon a contact wash I been using the Turtle Wax wet dry and has kept my coating intact at 9 months so far. The wet wax is great for eliminating water spots.
Buffer, Orbital, Random, ?
From my experiences I suggest people think about it like this - the higher speeds on a rotary aren't "what you want to get the machine up to". Think of it instead as, "a way to save time on flat panels where you are stable on your feet and can easily keep the machine moving and under control." If you're not experienced with it or not in an absolutely stable position just keep it on low speed and be careful about edges and it will be fine. Despite having the other machines I describe below, I actually use the rotary on low speed for tight areas sometimes where the vibration of an RO doesn't let you get right up to the edge (the transition between the trunk lid and rear window on the C6, for example).
