I got my detail guy to buff my Z. He managed to get most of the scratches and spider webbing from the upper surfaces (hood...rear deck) However, the area from front to rear above the body side molding is still horizontaly scratched. It looks like the original owner drove down a driveway with shrubs. Anyway, I have tried using 3M Rubbing Compound that removes 1200grit scratches followed by restore and wax. It makes it look better, but won't get them out all the way. 3M makes a 1500 grit compound as well that I could try. What are my options? Am I just not putting enough coats on or rubbing hard enough?

 

http://www.properautocare.com/mengerbespol.html

Intensive Polish and Power Gloss are two options. I love the Final Polish but not abrasive enough for your needs.

 

If all else fails wet sand with 2000 grit and re-polish, then Zaino or wax of choice.

 

I assume you are trying to use these compounds by hand, if so your results will be very poor. If it where me I would use my Porter Cable buffer starting with 3M Finesee It II using the orange or yellow pad, then use 3M Swirl Mark Remover part number 39009 with the white pad, and then apply Z-5 after a Dawn washing.....

 

It looks like I am going to have to get a Porter Cable and some 3M. I have been sucessfll in everything except the driver's side.

 

Where do you live? You'll be spending weeks working on those scratches with a DA buffer.

 

What do you mean? I live near Memphis

 

I am fairly close to Memphis, if you tell me where you live I might be able to help you out in person...

 

A DA buffer has very little cutting action. It's going side to side and in a small circle. With as deep as it sounds those scratches to be it will probably take quite some time. It can probably be done. If you were in the NE Ohio area I'd offer to come over there and help you out, but you're kinda far off. (I'll do it for free if you cover the air fare :D ).

Seriously though, the DA can probably do the job, but don't expect fast results. You will need to excercise patience, especially on black.

There's a pretty good guide on RoadFly.com that's probably been posted in this thread already. Follow that and but throw in a ton of patience.

 

Thanks for the offer...lets see what the weather does....I may put the whole paint situtation on hold until spring. Is "DA" a brand of buffer?

 

No, DA mean Dual Action, the buffer you want is the Porter Cable model 7336 and is sold at Lowes, price 109.00

 

:cheers:


[Modified by LowFlight, 3:37 PM 1/1/2004]

 

Well, first thing that jumps out at me is that someone has already used a rotary buffer on it....... and it appears that they were untrainted as it looks like they did a combination of things wrong:

Went too fast
Used too little compound
Used a compound that was too high in abrasive
Used a wool pad
Chickened out and didn't finish the job
Pressed too hard

To name a few. It could be one or all of the above. Not to worry. It looks to be fine as far as rectifying the problem.

Well, you have a few. To me my best guess is that he was intimidated by it being black, a Corvette and on the sides to boot. He was probably afraid of all the angles on the edges and went a bit too fast with less compound than he normally would have on, say, a silver Corolla.

GM went from one extreme to another on Corvette paint from C4 to C5 and he probably didn't know that. The paint on the C4 is rather thick (the clear coat is just a non-pigmented layer of paint).

I'll tell you how to get rid of it, but I need to know a tiny bit more of information.

--Do you know if it is original paint?
If you have to take it to a body shop and ask them to quickly inspect it to see of there are any areas of it that look as though it has been repainted. The previous owner may have said that it was all original paint, but then he was trying to get you to buy his car. ;)

--Take a close look at all of the scratches.
Are they white once you've stripped all the wax off? By stripping off the wax I'm not talking about a Dawn was because that's not thorough enough. Don't use a compound or Dawn. Use 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner and gently wipe off all the surface protection. That will soluablize the wax matter and you can clean it down to the paint by wiping with the area with your car wash soap in a spray bottle and a 100% cotton towel.

Once you've wiped it down to the paint do you see the whiteness of the scratches or do you see a bit of black? From the pictures to me it looks like it's all white, which is what you want.

Send me an IM when you've replied to this post. Again, there's no reason to panic......

:cheers:

 

Hey Detailing Dude....check these out...this is 4 hours with a Porter CAble and Einzetts Green Can followed by Red Can...I am so happy I could dance a jig :party:

 

:cool: :smash: :smash: :smash:

That's awesome!! I'm glad you had the patience to complete it.

What I do see on the bottom picture is some machine swirls or some oils that may have been left behind. They should be pretty easy to get rid of. If they're oils just use a microfiber towel and very lightly buff them. If they're from the buffing machine you'll want to, by hand, apply a few more coats of your wax.

 

man that is awesome you did a great job, since i use to own a detail shop i have a great appreciation for what you did and whew i own a black vette also whew!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Wouldn't that be a good feature for us amateurs?

Is there some way to guestimate how much clear coat you have left as you are polishing scratches out of your paint?

Dick

 

Here is the final results....after hours upon hours upon hours upon hours or work with my porter cable...3M compund,SMR then Einzetts Green and Red and then Pinnicle...viola!!!!!