VLVETTE

I didn't start my Zaino applications correctly Only 1 coat of Z-5 to start. I want to put more coats before the Z-2. I want to start from square one with clay bar now that I've learned to Zaino. How do I get it stripped back down to the clear coat? I have about 6 layers of Z-2 with a couple of Z-5 in between, :confused: :seeya

BETA

..Dawn Dishwashing Liq ought to do the trick..

KLO

Ok, few things here, Dawn does not strip Zaino. Also, I see no need to strip anything, you can simply clay on top of the Zaino and the clay will pull any debris up and thru the Zaino coating and you can just continue to add ever how many layers of Z-2 or Z-5 that you wish, you can also do Z-1 right now or if you are using ZFX use that system. I have used Zaino since 1998 and never had a reason to strip any of my cars or any of my customers............

DetailingDude

Dawn won't.

At Corvettes at Carlisle this year there were several individuals who had some water spotting in their Zaino. They actually thought the water spots were in their paint but after looking at it closely I determined the Clear Coat hadn't been affected..... but Zaino had actually done it's job perfectly and that's to defend the Clear Coat against damage from various types of contamination.

More succinctly, your surface protection is there to act as a sacrificial barrier.

To remove the Zaino I used Lusso Paint Revitalizing Creme and the problem was gone (That was back in the day when I ran Lusso). He then cleaned up after the PRC and went onto reapplying his Zaino. 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner should do a fine job of removing it.

It's a good idea to occasionally remove your surface protection and begin the process all over from the start.

BETA

....oops..:bb...correct....I mispoke....according to the zaino site, Dawn strips traditional types of car wax.... :)

C5corvetteman

As far as these suggestions, I found neither of them to work. I had 3 coats of Z5 and one coat of Z2. The Z2 left streaks on my clear coat and it appeared it was embedded into. I email Zaino's and was given the following instructions. Wipe down with a damp towel, better yet, was the vehicle with Z7 and dry it. None of this worked. Clayed it over some of the areas that had the most streaks, nope,,,did not work......took a stocking and with elbow grease, removed most of it, but left small fine sctraches on my clear coat. Those scrtaches will be gone after I apply swarl remover....I will not use Zaino's again, and wish I can get a refund on the unused products I have left.

DetailingDude

Dawn doens't even strip off wax.

Killrwheels

prepsol , Einszett Acryosol , Alcohol, or Abrasive/chemical Polishes remove Zaino quickly.

mrgil

C5corvetteman;
If you're going to throw out the Zaino Send it to me! H*ll I'll even pay the freight. lol :lol: :D

chevysales

"It's a good idea to occasionally remove your surface protection and begin the process all over from the start."

detailing dude could you elaborate on the above qoute please? (why)

hcvone

If you had streaking you used too much Zaino polish, or at least that is usually the problem if streaking occurs. Send back your Zaino to who you purchased it from, they will give you your money back, or at least they should as long as the bottles are not empty. ;)


[Modified by hcvone, 7:50 AM 4/9/2004]

0MikePhillips

In this thread here,

For the Zaino faithful...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=788320

FNC80 brought his Corvette down to MeguiarÂ’s to see if the water spots could be removed. He didn't tell me how many layers of a competitors product he had on it, but more than one... and I suspect many.

Here is a photo of the water spots taken from a 6.8 mega pixel Cannon Camera - Raw photo, except for cropping and resizing.



Here is the same picture only I have cropped out the surrounding area to focus on the defects.



Note: There were many more spots originally than this picture shows. The owner brought the car back this last Wednesday because during the time of the event, I didn't have time to put a macro lens on the camera... (too busy). These photos were taken after polishing with Meguiar's #38 DACP with a W-8006 pad on the PC on about the 5.0 setting for a long time. It would have been faster and more efficient to have used a rotary buffer but I wanted to show the owner how he could do it himself with only a PC.

On the rear passenger side, where I buffed the finish much longer, 95% of the water spots are gone.

Unlike traditional lacquers and enamels, modern clear coats are incredibly hard. At the same time, they are very scratch-sensitive. This means although they are very hard, they still scratch easily. This is something I notice a lot of people don't understand and I often see people on forums such as this actually posting that clear coat paints are soft... (This tells me the poster doesnÂ’t understand paint hardness very well). From my experience, newer Corvettes with the factory clear coat are incredibly hard. I even mention that in this thread as to being one of the reasons I didnÂ’t want to compound the entire finish, i.e the paint is so hard, it would have turned into a monumental buff-our for a daily driver. Not worth it to me, and not practical for the owners.

Point being, wax, whether its a natural product, or a man-made product, i.e. it's a Paint Protectant, no matter what name you want to call it, i.e polish for Zaino, does act as a Sacrificial Barrier in that under the best circumstances, you coating of wax will sacrifice itself, so you paint doesn't have to, [sacrifices itself].

But even under the best circumstances, some chemicals still eat away the micron-thin layer of protection and etch into the finish.

This one thing I am dead on certain of, the water spot etchings in the rear panels of this Corvette were NOT in the multiple layers of polish, they were in the paint itself, and in order to remove the defects, we had to remove a little paint in an effort to level, or flatten out the surface, which we did.

We then applied one coat of Tech Wax. The owner will be layering on more in the future until he reaches the point of diminishing returns.


Here is a photo of a water etching that has been cropped and resized.



Here is a close-up of a single water spot etching in the paint taken from the above picture. This is a raw photo, it has only been cropped out of the original.



All this will be posted to this thread in greater detail,

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...=&threadid=538

I guess the point of all this is this,

There is no miracle paint protectant that will protect your finish from everything, the best you can hope for is that a quality paint protectant will protect your finish from most attacks, and if nothing else, it will slow down the attack, no matter how many layers you apply.

Mike



[Modified by Mike Phillips, 4:03 PM 4/9/2004]

DsC5

I have a couple water spots like those that DACP won't take out, even after 3 passes with a PC and yellow pad. :(

0MikePhillips

Hi DsC5,

#83 DACP is a combination paint cleaner and pure polish. It's actually not very aggressive at all. It's about as aggressive as I like to get with a PC however because I find if you get any more aggressive with the PC, while you might be able to remove a defect, (such as a scratch or a water spot etching), you tend to dull the finish down. Then what?

That's why I mentioned above that the best way to remove the water spots in the above Corvette would be to use the rotary buffer instead. The rotary buffer has the ability to, as I call it, do work, unlike the PC which basically just jiggles real fast.

One thing I notice at the Detail Day's at Meguiar's that may apply... After discussing the PC with folks, and then putting it into their hands and letting them try it for themselves, here's the three problems with technique that I see most often,


* The new user doesn't push down hard enough, 5-8 lbs of pressure
* The new user doesn't run the PC at a high enough speed, 5.0 to 5.5 on the dial
* The new user doesn't run the PC in one area long enough.

Maybe FNC80 will chime in, or someone else that has been to one of these clinics, but because the PC is so gentle to the finish, (that's why it's so safe, it's gentle), that it really takes a long time, the right pressure and a high speed in order to remove enough paint from the surface to remove the defect.

Oh yeah, one more thing, they move the PC to fast over the section they're buffing. Just like a rotary, you need to slow it down.... Move the machine slowly over the finish allowing the unique polishing action taking place between the surface of your finish and the face of the foam pad, the diminishing abrasives, time, heat and pressure.

Removing defects with the PC can be slow depending on how hard your finish is. Like I also mentioned, modern clear coat finishes are as hard as glass for the most part. Once in a while I see a clear coat finish that is soft, but rarely a factory applied clear coat.

Think about it, in the old days, guys you to rub out lacquer by hand, it was called a hand-rubbed lacquer finish. You could actually sand down a lacquer finish and then remove your sanding marks by hand using a series of compounds replacing the most aggressive compound with a finer compound until for the most part, a majority of the scratches are gone and the finish has a nice smooth look to it. Then follow that with a glaze, and sometimes a wax.

When is the last time your heard of a Hand-Rubbed Clear Coat Finish?, and by that I mean, a finish put through a series of compounding procedures by hand which results in a high gloss finish. I don't mean merely apply a coat of wax, or [i]polish[/b].

I don't know about you, but I don't ever hear of them and that's because the modern clear coat finishes are so hard that the average person using their hands cannot remove deep scratches without leaving behind even more scratches in their place.

That's the beauty of foam pad technology and diminishing abrasives embodied in a rich, lubricating base. This combination enables you bring any type of paint to a high gloss surface.

You might try again modifying your technique just a little with some of the techniques I outlined above. If that doesn't help, then your paint is too hard to effectively remove defects with a machine that basically jiggles.

Mike