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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 04:19 AM
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Hey All,
What would you recommend as the first upgrade (besides the stock clutch) to prevent drivetrain failure due to drag racing?

In other words, if I take a stock MN6 C5 and put some 26 x 10.5 ET Streets on it, what would you recommend that I upgrade first?

Will a stock drivetrain be able to handle launches like this?

Thanks in advance,
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 05:32 AM
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glhs422, After the clutch! Well 2 things if you are going to run et streets. 1. DTE girdle kit. 2. hardened long shaft in the rearend. That will keep most of your problems at bay.
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 09:09 AM
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 12:07 PM
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Hardend input & output shafts for sure.
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 12:23 PM
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Will the stock tranny hold up pretty well?
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 10:08 PM
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Yes, the MN6 is pretty tuff if you are not missing gears.
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by glhs422
Hey All,
What would you recommend as the first upgrade (besides the stock clutch) to prevent drivetrain failure due to drag racing?

In other words, if I take a stock MN6 C5 and put some 26 x 10.5 ET Streets on it, what would you recommend that I upgrade first?

Will a stock drivetrain be able to handle launches like this?

Thanks in advance,
Don't worry, You'll find out what mods are needed. When ever you mod one thing you'll wind up fixing something else. You will always find that WEAK link, usually at the wrong time. Start increasing the motor's HP and something WILL snap., it's all part of racing. Whoever said that owning a boat was like pouring money down a bottemless pit didn't drag race vettes....
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by cb5300
Don't worry, You'll find out what mods are needed. When ever you mod one thing you'll wind up fixing something else. You will always find that WEAK link, usually at the wrong time. Start increasing the motor's HP and something WILL snap., it's all part of racing. Whoever said that owning a boat was like pouring money down a bottemless pit didn't drag race vettes....
Heh - I hear ya'! I understand that racing (especially drag racing) will take its toll on drivetrain parts, but I was under the impression that the stock c5 stuff is pretty strong.

I just want to make sure that if I buy a c5, I will be able to have a reliable low 12 second car on sticky tires (with near-stock drivetrain parts) that I won't have to spend $4k on a tranny and rear end for (like the f-bodies - 9" rear and built tranny needed for quickness & reliability).

In other words, I don't want to have to take spare output shafts/axles to the track with me!! LOL!
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 02:33 PM
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Buy this and have a 10 second car with everything posible done to the drive train: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...18&forum_id=52

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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TLewis4095
Buy this and have a 10 second car with everything posible done to the drive train: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...18&forum_id=52

LOL . . does it come with a smog cert. for CA?? Then I'd consider!
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Old Jun 4, 2005 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ZO6Bill
glhs422, After the clutch! Well 2 things if you are going to run et streets. 1. DTE girdle kit. 2. hardened long shaft in the rearend. That will keep most of your problems at bay.

Bill,
How much are you looking at price-wise for these mods?

Thanks,
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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 03:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ZO6Bill
Well 2 things if you are going to run et streets. 1. DTE girdle kit. 2. hardened long shaft in the rearend. That will keep most of your problems at bay.
Does anyone know how much most shops will charge to do these mods?
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by glhs422
Does anyone know how much most shops will charge to do these mods?
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 12:55 PM
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by LOTAHP



LOL . . I hear ya!

I'm not trying to build a 9 second 6 spd drag car or anything, though - I just want to know what I'd need to do to have a reliable C5 that I could drive to the track with ET Street Radials/ET Streets, cut some 1.6-1.7 60 ft's, go low 12's/high 11's, and drive home getting 25+mpg with the a/c on.

Are we talking like $2000+ to have hardened shafts and a girdle installed?
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Old Jun 7, 2005 | 09:59 PM
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The shafts are not expensive. The labor gets ya though. A clutch upgrade I don't believe helps PREVENT breaking though.
Ron
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Old Jun 9, 2005 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by glhs422
LOL . . I hear ya!

I'm not trying to build a 9 second 6 spd drag car or anything, though - I just want to know what I'd need to do to have a reliable C5 that I could drive to the track with ET Street Radials/ET Streets, cut some 1.6-1.7 60 ft's, go low 12's/high 11's, and drive home getting 25+mpg with the a/c on.

Are we talking like $2000+ to have hardened shafts and a girdle installed?

Trade your 6-speed in for an automatic. Then all you will need is a converter & gears ( a couple of bolt-ons).
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr.Ron
The shafts are not expensive. The labor gets ya though. A clutch upgrade I don't believe helps PREVENT breaking though.
Ron
How much $$ do the labor and parts get you for, roughly??

BTW, you're right on about the clutch, LOL . . . I meant that the clutch is the part of the drivetrain that will fail first with increased power.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 03:17 PM
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Two years ago I installed a 4.10 rear end with hardened output shaft from DTE. Traded cores and parts and labor ran $1800. I run MT ET Streets. MN6 with after market shifter, headers, LS6 intake, Blackwing, and a Dyno tune. 345 RWHP and 359 RWTQ. Run consistant 12.4- 12.5 in the heat and humidity of Iowa mid summer. Best time is 12.391 @ 112 MPH

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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by HawkIVette
Two years ago I installed a 4.10 rear end with hardened output shaft from DTE. Traded cores and parts and labor ran $1800. I run MT ET Streets.
Thanks for the #'s . . . that's what I was looking for. Do you have any idea what it would cost to just install the gearset and the hardened output shafts, instead of installing a whole new rear end?

Last edited by glhs422; Jun 19, 2005 at 04:03 PM.
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