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with the L48 in my car, it's hard to cut a good light staging shallow and leaving on the last yellow. We're talking 2.2-2.3 60' times with no wheel spin.
The 3:36 gears don't help, neither does the 1800 stall converter, but I'm stuck with it for now.
should I change the light I leave on?
Will deep staging help?
Last edited by isosceles; Aug 13, 2005 at 08:35 PM.
I may be all wrong here so other's feel free to chime in if I am. But I don't think where you stage is going to make much difference on your 60 foot time. It may change your RT some though.
YES where he stages will have a BIG effect on his 60' time..
If you are shallow stage & you 60' is 2.2 by going in DEEP you will slow your 60' time to (app) 2.3 - 2.4
As for reaction time if you leave at the EXACT same time your reaction time will be quicker. (by going deep your tire is 6-7" closer to the start beam)
Also if you go in DEEP your 1/4 mile ET will be about .15 slower..
I am not doubting you, but as I understand it none of your elapsed times start until you break the starting beam. So it seems to me no matter where you stage you are still behind the beam. So I don't see how where you stage would change your sixty foot time. You say it does and give some examples of how it changes. Could you explain to me why my reasoning is flawed. Then I will understand. Thanks.
YES where he stages will have a BIG effect on his 60' time..
If you are shallow stage & you 60' is 2.2 by going in DEEP you will slow your 60' time to (app) 2.3 - 2.4
As for reaction time if you leave at the EXACT same time your reaction time will be quicker. (by going deep your tire is 6-7" closer to the start beam)
Also if you go in DEEP your 1/4 mile ET will be about .15 slower..
I agree with Mr. Panuzzo. I don't think your ET will drop that much though. I think .08/1.0. I think you should just bump in deeper. Deep staging is really close to a red light. What is your average RT Mark. Take your average and deduct .08. That's about all you have to play with.
Last edited by Special K; Aug 13, 2005 at 09:43 PM.
I was just using my 60' times to illustrate how slow my car starts moving. I'm not even spinning the tires!
"Not even spinning the tires" is a good thing. The depth of the stage will change the 60' number on the time slip, but assuming there is no difference in the wheel spin, etc. the actual time it takes to go that initial 60' won't change from when you hit the gas, regardless of where you staged. The purpose if playing with the staging position is to get YOU set set up to where you can hit a good RT. The difference in the 60' on the time slip print out won't mean a thing.
While it may be safer than going deep, it will be harder to dial the car because if the difference between shallow and deep is .10 then if the bumps are not perfectly executed each time, then it makes it that much harder to dial the car.
While it may be safer than going deep, it will be harder to dial the car because if the difference between shallow and deep is .10 then if the bumps are not perfectly executed each time, then it makes it that much harder to dial the car.
that's what worries me about bumping in.
If I don't do it exactly the same way every time, I'll end up with a different R/T AND a different ET.
While it may be safer than going deep, it will be harder to dial the car because if the difference between shallow and deep is .10 then if the bumps are not perfectly executed each time, then it makes it that much harder to dial the car.
You're right but if you red light your dial in doesn't mean much does it. Deep staging is like cutting an .010 light. Too damn close to red.
You can also bump the rpm before launch and you'll also see an improved RT. You can also start depressing the accelerator very gently on the first yellow. You'll also see an improved RT.