Question about slicks
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From: Now in God's Country, the Big Sky, Montana!
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Question about slicks
With the new power I am thinking I should maybe go with some true slicks instead of running the ET Streets at the track. My question is on sizing. What is the smallest wheel and biggest slick I can run on the C5? I know the first choice here will be the CCWs but I don't want to spend that much on the wheels, so what else would you suggest in the wheel category for replacing the backs? What offset? Bogarts? Welds? Thanks! 
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by Cajundude
With the new power I am thinking I should maybe go with some true slicks instead of running the ET Streets at the track. My question is on sizing. What is the smallest wheel and biggest slick I can run on the C5? I know the first choice here will be the CCWs but I don't want to spend that much on the wheels, so what else would you suggest in the wheel category for replacing the backs? What offset? Bogarts? Welds? Thanks!
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From: Now in God's Country, the Big Sky, Montana!
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Originally Posted by 02BLKZ06
someone is sellign truck rims with ET streets on it and they said somehting about the upper ball joint having to be modified... anyone know what exactly to do??
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From: Now in God's Country, the Big Sky, Montana!
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
You can see the wear spots in this pic. I haven't ground them down yet. It doesn't take much and I really don't give a chit about the IROC rims, but since this was brought up, I will go ahead and doing while I have the car up. Just grind off the two little knubs.
Just grind off the two little knubs.
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Thread Starter
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From: Now in God's Country, the Big Sky, Montana!
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Originally Posted by Face
What do you plan on running up front?
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From: Lithia FL
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Not know what power like this means, it is not advise to combine radial fronts with bias ply rears. More sway than you want to deal with.
Far as I have seen Bogart and Welds cost more than CCW and neither makes a wheel for the C5 anyway.
Far as I have seen Bogart and Welds cost more than CCW and neither makes a wheel for the C5 anyway.
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From: Alpharetta georgia
and there might be a little more....
with the ccw wheels we have every thing back there is real tight and in addition to the grinding we had to....
-the greese joint(little nipple on top) needed some T.L.C.-a hammer to flatten it a little.
-the inside of the rim was machined(a little)
and ther still was a little bit of rubbing and we just let it rub it self out-most is gone now unless ther is a "FULL" car but with one seat that is hard to do.............now i don't know if any one else has had to do all this, our car is not a daily driver so more steps have probably needed to be taken but didn't want any one to be cought out in the dark.
-the greese joint(little nipple on top) needed some T.L.C.-a hammer to flatten it a little.
-the inside of the rim was machined(a little)
and ther still was a little bit of rubbing and we just let it rub it self out-most is gone now unless ther is a "FULL" car but with one seat that is hard to do.............now i don't know if any one else has had to do all this, our car is not a daily driver so more steps have probably needed to be taken but didn't want any one to be cought out in the dark.
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From: Now in God's Country, the Big Sky, Montana!
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Originally Posted by REDGAR
Not know what power like this means, it is not advise to combine radial fronts with bias ply rears. More sway than you want to deal with.
Far as I have seen Bogart and Welds cost more than CCW and neither makes a wheel for the C5 anyway.
Far as I have seen Bogart and Welds cost more than CCW and neither makes a wheel for the C5 anyway.
Thread Starter
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From: Now in God's Country, the Big Sky, Montana!
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
We'll see! I postponed my tune until Monday. I didn't have time over this past weekend to finish up my installs. I also want to give everything a once over to make sure all is good before I go to get it tuned. That is the expected HP range from what I've seen from others.
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by Cajundude
You can see the wear spots in this pic. I haven't ground them down yet. It doesn't take much and I really don't give a chit about the IROC rims, but since this was brought up, I will go ahead and doing while I have the car up. Just grind off the two little knubs.
Just grind off the two little knubs.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by Red98N/A10.61ET
with the ccw wheels we have every thing back there is real tight and in addition to the grinding we had to....
-the greese joint(little nipple on top) needed some T.L.C.-a hammer to flatten it a little.
-the inside of the rim was machined(a little)
and ther still was a little bit of rubbing and we just let it rub it self out-most is gone now unless ther is a "FULL" car but with one seat that is hard to do.............now i don't know if any one else has had to do all this, our car is not a daily driver so more steps have probably needed to be taken but didn't want any one to be cought out in the dark.
-the greese joint(little nipple on top) needed some T.L.C.-a hammer to flatten it a little.
-the inside of the rim was machined(a little)
and ther still was a little bit of rubbing and we just let it rub it self out-most is gone now unless ther is a "FULL" car but with one seat that is hard to do.............now i don't know if any one else has had to do all this, our car is not a daily driver so more steps have probably needed to be taken but didn't want any one to be cought out in the dark.
Thread Starter
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From: Now in God's Country, the Big Sky, Montana!
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
The reason I use ET Streets now and am thinking about going to a true slick is for help with driveline shock. You don't get the shock absorption with a drag radial that you do with a slick.