What do i need to do to get traction. I put a 402 stroker in happy with it but now at track cant get it to hook up . mods are 402 stroker rpm buildt a4 373 gears 3200 precision industries converter (which my tuner said it was real loose) dte strut brace and 150 nx dual nozzle wet shot. 60FT average high 1.5s spinning tires need to get low 1.40s would some qtp coilover shocks help.I do have a 2800 stall and 3.42 gears that i took out should i put those back in.thanks in advance for help.

 

Dwayne, you let out he most important traction item...tires?

 

You are right had mt et streets 26 x 11.5 now i put on mt et streets 27 x 10.5 wanted to try a little taller tire.

 

Try a full tank of gas 1st...........I cut 1.49s with the 97' on bfg 345/30/18 drs, MT ET Street radial 275/40/17 and MT ET Street 26 x 11.50 x 17 or 16 on OEM Suspension.
Your stall is a little low..............3500 or up , 3.73s are
Steve

 

Remove front sway bar... also I think loose or Drag front shocks...will permit the front to lift and transfer weight to the rear...

 

I have already removed it.

 

Hey Dwayne...you hit on something yourself...you asked would different rear shocks help...I have seen tuning the suspension with adjustable shocks do wonders...the guys I know with motors like yours and a bit bigger run them set on soft in the back and firm in the front with good results...plus, you can adjust to different tracks as need be...btw, are you juicin' the new motor?...

Edit for being an idiot...I meant to say soft setting in the front and firm in the back...I'd blame it on the meds but I'm not taking any...lol

 

There is the adjustable shock debate again. I go hard rear soft front on a good track and losen the rear, still soft front on not so healthy track

 

I've had my best results with these setup. Too soft in the back=wheelhop and too much wasted energy.

 

Are you heating up the tires, reeeeeaaaallllllll good, or just hazing them...?

Not that I'm an expert, but, I have found that unlike the MT website, where they say only a hazing is needed, a good 5-7 smoky burnout is what does the trick @ 13 -14 psi..

 

My only debate is with myself over spending $700 for a pair of front QA1 double adjustables.
The quicker and easier the front end can raise the quicker more weight will be on the back tires.
Back in the old days drilling the front shocks and draining the fluid was a practice used by some.
I am leaning towards the new QA1 double adjustable - bump and rebound settings. The single adjustable if set on a 'soft' setting has very easy extension and hard compression, maybe 90/10 at its lowest setting, the front end lifts easier but it also stays there.
With the second (compression) adjustment you can find a compression setting that will allow the car to settle forward easier at some point. This will make the car much more stable at high speed.
Being able to allow the rear to sink easier would also help but I ain't springing for $1400 on shocks. Will probably get the fronts.
I have Z51 suspension with a Z06 front anti-sway bars and 04 Z06 shocks, this makes for a harsh ride on lousy roads, youse guys in NJ and NY know what I mean.
As a bonus I hope to get some ride comfort benfit from the shocks and still be able to stiffen them up for autocross.
Tomorrow I'm running on a slick country 1/8 mile strip and think I will disconnect the sway bar. Its going to be 90* with a track temperature of about 120* da about 5000", they VHT 60' and the only rubber is what the cars have put down.
Need everything I can get in 60', full tank of gas, 90 lb of ballast in the trunk. Run a 6.99 heads up class full of mid to high 6 second cars, I need low to mid 1.6 short times to run 7.00 tomorrow and my best there in the heat has been 1.71.

 

I run Qa-1 at all 4 corners.............fronts set to "1" soft,(BTW, these shocks are soft in BOTH directions, not 10/90) and depending on track conditions, from "7" to "12" with driver side one click softer.

 

I run a set of 100,00 mile shocks on the front,MT ET Streets 16-28-11.5 at 8 lbs screwed on the wheels,car wiggles bad at big end.
I installed the R-D rear unit that is soupose to throw the rear end on the ground harder and I use a "0" camber setting in the rear.
The car is all over the board 1.48 to 1.71.
I have used my line lock and burned them up. I have hazed them and nothing works.Tried Nittos and they just blow off.
The motor has the power so I just take it to 134 mph to make up the difference.
My buddy runs the MT little or no burn slicks and seems to good have luck with them.I think I am going to try the Hoosers.

 

thanks for the help seems to me there is no perfect set up might just wait to it cools down alittle bit and see what happens.