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Never having one myself what it does is launches the car for you at a certain time you give it.
On a full tree you will leave on the third yellow. This will most likely cause you to anticipate rather than react to the bulb. This can be a bad habit cause you are guessing. With a delay box you react to the first light and program the car to leave 1.x second after you have reacted thereby eliminating anticipation inconsistencies.
I understand,.....but you can just as easily react to the third yellow as the first one, and get just as good a reaction time, correct ?
..... about 20-25 years ago, guys with extremely-quick launching cars (light-weight cars with stiff chassis, high HP and big-tires, that would literally 'jerk' the tires UP, out-of the Stage beams, instead-of 'driving-out' of them ) would foul-start/red-light when leaving-off the 3rd Amber bulb while using a trans-brake:
at the time, technology allowed some enterprising racers to build a device, which they could pre-program to the thousandth-of-a-second (.001 ), to 'delay' the signal sent from the button on the shifter to the transmission, releasing the trans-brake, preventing a red-light.....
..... BUT.....
..... since they were still reacting to the 3rd bulb, they still had the chance to be 'anticipating' that bulb, so they began 'dialing-in' more delay, and leaving off the top-bulb, where they couldn't 'anticipate' ANY bulbs flashing:
about the same time, the first readily-available (but primitive ) 'practice' Christmas Trees were offered, and racers realized they could practice leaving-off the top-bulb to the 'first-flash', minimizing the chance of red-lights due to 'anticipation', and become very consistent on the Tree.
A 'good' bottom-bulb racer can usually go -.01 to .03 (old-style .490-to-.530 ) at-will, but the equivalent delay-box racer can-go -.005 to .02 (.495-.520 ), which is a much tighter 'window', offering better chance at success (less red-lights, and better 'worse' lights, too ), with fewer distractions:
a quicker opponent with a delay-box can program-in the difference of the 'spot' to your slower dial-in, and leave-off of YOUR top-bulb, known-as 'crossing-over', so once he knows all 4 Pre-Stage/Stage bulbs are lit, he can release his trigger on ANY flash he sees, and won't be distracted by your slower car 'passing-behind' the tree when his side is activated.
(this explains why the top Amber bulb at most tracks is 'pointed' straight-back, allowing each driver to see his opponents top-bulb {crossing-over}, but the 2nd & 3rd Ambers bulbs are angled-towards each particular lane, with a center 'shield' dividing visibility )
With LOTSA practice, you would become much-more consistent with a delay box & leaving-off the top-bulb for getting good Reaction Times:
they aren't called 'Anticipation Times', are they?
I understand,.....but you can just as easily react to the third yellow as the first one, and get just as good a reaction time, correct ?
One would think so but no. If you are shallow staged you are anticipating the light. This is true even if you have a 10 second car. Have someone vidio your launch. Tape the rear tire and tree. Slow-mo will show your car moving before the 3rd amber. I was shocked by this. The other proof is take a few runs on a pro.500 tree. You will be amazed how late your RT will be. With top bulb racing your more consistant on the tree because it's a true reaction to the light.
Edgar, I use a trans brake running shallow staged on the pro tree. Only way I can cut a light.
I used to think that. I thought I was trained to react to the thrid yellow when I can cut a .00x light almost at will.
Then I started doing pro tree races and trying to react to the top bulb...NOWHERE near what I do with a full tree
Edgar you see the light. Last season I cut a .000 light shallow staged and one of the ATCO hitters came up to me and said nice guess. At the time I didn't know what he was talking about. I do now.
Thanks, all, for your input. It seems the electronics are a "reaction time aid", taking away some degree of guesswork , enabling better reaction times. Now if only I can get my car to hook consistantly, I would cut perfect lights (Ha !)
From: Everyday you must choose between the pain of discipline and the pain of regret. Fredericktown, OH
Originally Posted by C3 Stroker
Thanks, all, for your input. It seems the electronics are a "reaction time aid", taking away some degree of guesswork , enabling better reaction times. Now if only I can get my car to hook consistantly, I would cut perfect lights (Ha !)
Exactly. The driver still has to react consistently for the delay box to work. But, it has been proven that the human body reacts quickest and most cosistently to the first stimuli as opposed to the 3rd, or more of the tree isn't shielded. That's whay delay boxes turned into cross-over delay boxes. This allows the faster car to "leave" off the slowe cars first bulb. Heck, some now giver you the chance to leave off the opponents top bulb and your top bulb and can calculate which one is better. Then, some even have an override that if you think you missed both, you can go off your bottom bulb.
I always raced foot brack (no-box) and did pretty well. In the mid-90s, I used to run both classes once or twice a month. Back then, you could race all day long with .520-.540s in a no-box class as long as you could race the big end. In box classes, far too many people can go .50x - .519 all day long. And in a big tire car or dragster, they are very consistent.