When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am getting dual adjustables by the way, so they have different settings for compression and release.
So that would be 10-12 clicks for the "down" force resistance how about the "Up" force?
That's the quandary.
Matt383
I use competition engineering adjustable 90/10's in front and they work great (90/10 setting).. They can be adjusted 90/10, 80/20 and 60/40..
The 10 - 12 clicks is for the down and up force... On IRS cars, you want to have as little travel in the rear as the geometry gets messed up when the car is squatting too much. The most important resistance is the rebound setting (expansion) as a too quick rebound in the rear makes the front come down too quickly.. Slow compression and slow rebound is the ideal for a IRS car.
I went through a long learning process with my setup.. People would call my car the dolphin because the front would be sooo bouncy. I thought that it was caused by the front suspension but it was caused by the rear suspension being too soft.
Up until recently I was using 2 in the fronts but it is bouncing on me so I will be using stiffer fronts.
Edgar, your problem is not in the front. Watch the video of your transbrake launch.. The moment the rear rebounds, the front gets forced down and that causes the bounce. I had exactly the same problem and going stiffer in the rear fixed it...
From: 2003 Points Champ Great Lakes Corvette Challenge; 2006/2007 Winner MSD True Street
Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
I use competition engineering adjustable 90/10's in front and they work great (90/10 setting).. They can be adjusted 90/10, 80/20 and 60/40..
The 10 - 12 clicks is for the down and up force... On IRS cars, you want to have as little travel in the rear as the geometry gets messed up when the car is squatting too much. The most important resistance is the rebound setting (expansion) as a too quick rebound in the rear makes the front come down too quickly.. Slow compression and slow rebound is the ideal for a IRS car.
I went through a long learning process with my setup.. People would call my car the dolphin because the front would be sooo bouncy. I thought that it was caused by the front suspension but it was caused by the rear suspension being too soft.
Thanks for the clarification.
My car does squat too much now.
It slams the half shaft loops with the underbody which pushed them to rub against the half shafts.
Fronts = 90 down 10 up? or the other way around?
Rear = max(90?) down and up.
My car does squat too much now.
It slams the half shaft loops with the underbody which pushed them to rub against the half shafts.
Fronts = 90 down 10 up? or the other way around?
Rear = max(90?) down and up.
Do I have that right?
Thanks
Matt383
90/10 means that 90% resistence on compression and 10% resistence on expansion..
In the rear, ideally you want a 50/50 distribution of very tight compression... A tighter spring will also help a lot in combination with a very tight shock setting..
A tight rear shock/spring setting causes the weight to be directly forced onto the tires. If the rear suspension compresses, force to the tires is actually reduced as the suspension absorbs part of the down force. The concept for a solid axle car is completely different but for IRS cars, you want the rear as stiff as possible.
Look at the slow motion launch. There's no noticeable movement in the rear. (it actually compresses by 1 inch (visible on the shock) but that's about it
I needed the clarification between the set up for solid and IRS.
That explains a lot!
I assume that solid cars want to have a softer set up up in the rear than IRS.
Do you think I should get a stiffer spring now too?
I suppose I should try one thing at a time as the saying goes then I know what effect each has.....
Matt383
Some of the solid axle cars that I know of use like a 200 - 250 lbs/inch rear springs or even less... It's a whole different concept.
What I would do if I was you would be to first try to go with a very tight setting for your QA1's in the rear and see how the car reacts.
Mark the tire with shoe polish and have someone videotape one of your launches with the camera pointed at the rear tire (that the shoe polish mark is visible).
Try to do a slow motion analysis of front and rear suspension travel. (watch what the front suspension does when the rear suspension rebounds). I'd also mark the shocks to see how much rear end travel you get. (you can use a black marker etc.). I put some grease on mine and I can see how much the shock compresses by looking at how far the grease was moved down. You really don't want more than 1 inch travel in the rear..
When I did my suspension tuning, I ended up lowering my 60' time from 1.55 - 1.58 to 1.39 - 1.42
Well, I also switched from wrinkle wall to radial slicks but suspension tuning has made a significant difference..
Matt, your car sounds similar to mine. While the double adustables are nice to have, i dont think they are necessary with our C4 suspensions. As Oliver said, you want the rear to be stiff and you also don't want it to squat too hard. So a stiff spring/shock combo works well. I've got my Qa1 set at 6 clicks (midpoint) and usually dont vary it more than 2 clicks (although after seeing Olivers launch i might try 10-12 clicks in the rear). I see you've already raised the rear...I also use long bump stops in the rear so it can only squat so far. If the rear shocks are too loose, i can feel it hit the stop, but with them stiff, it just touchs the stop. In the front you want it as loose as possible without losing control or bouncing down the track. The front uspension in most C4s is inherently stiff, so i set my shocks to zero. QA1 also makes a drag version single adjustable that is stiffer on compresion (similar to a 90/10). That shock might be a little harsh on the street when tightened, but they work great at the strip.
Matt, your car sounds similar to mine. While the double adustables are nice to have, i dont think they are necessary with our C4 suspensions. As Oliver said, you want the rear to be stiff and you also don't want it to squat too hard. So a stiff spring/shock combo works well. I've got my Qa1 set at 6 clicks (midpoint) and usually dont vary it more than 2 clicks (although after seeing Olivers launch i might try 10-12 clicks in the rear). I see you've already raised the rear...I also use long bump stops in the rear so it can only squat so far. If the rear shocks are too loose, i can feel it hit the stop, but with them stiff, it just touchs the stop. In the front you want it as loose as possible without losing control or bouncing down the track. The front uspension in most C4s is inherently stiff, so i set my shocks to zero. QA1 also makes a drag version single adjustable that is stiffer on compresion (similar to a 90/10). That shock might be a little harsh on the street when tightened, but they work great at the strip.
The requirement for C4's might be slightly different as the front springs on C4's are the composite monospring type. Those are not really ideal for drag racing as they don't have all that much travel... I do have Moroso Trick front springs (250 lbs/inch) and I get a lot of travel in my front suspension which helps tremendously to bring the front up.
From: 2003 Points Champ Great Lakes Corvette Challenge; 2006/2007 Winner MSD True Street
Originally Posted by ralph
Matt, your car sounds similar to mine. While the double adustables are nice to have, i dont think they are necessary with our C4 suspensions. As Oliver said, you want the rear to be stiff and you also don't want it to squat too hard. So a stiff spring/shock combo works well. I've got my Qa1 set at 6 clicks (midpoint) and usually dont vary it more than 2 clicks (although after seeing Olivers launch i might try 10-12 clicks in the rear). I see you've already raised the rear...I also use long bump stops in the rear so it can only squat so far. If the rear shocks are too loose, i can feel it hit the stop, but with them stiff, it just touchs the stop. In the front you want it as loose as possible without losing control or bouncing down the track. The front uspension in most C4s is inherently stiff, so i set my shocks to zero. QA1 also makes a drag version single adjustable that is stiffer on compresion (similar to a 90/10). That shock might be a little harsh on the street when tightened, but they work great at the strip.
Thanks Ralph,
We did talk to Qa1 tech and they don't make a Drag shock to fit my 88 vette. They said to use the dual adjustables.