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28" v 26" slicks?

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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 01:11 AM
  #1  
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Default 28" v 26" slicks?

I am building a strip only C4
383 HSR ,TH400 ,with 4 bar 9" rear.
Was planning on running a 26 x 10/15 slick but have been offered a pair of new 28 x 10.5 /15s at a
can't refuse price.
Have room to run them , have not finalised rear end ratio.
Any advantage / disadvantage over smaller tyre?
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 02:39 AM
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If you are going with 4.56 gear the tires will work but they will stick out one hand width outside the wheel well,you can catch the rocks as they fly into your helmet. Just a piece of advice ,only do your burn out in 2nd gear or your trans will blow
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 03:14 AM
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Thanks
9" has been shortened to put wheels in stock position with 15 x 10 Welds 5.5" BS .
No stone chips!
By relocating the 4 bars to the inside of the frame, I can fit a 12" wide rim inside the stock wheel well
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 04:12 AM
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If you can fit a 12" under the rear I would go for it
Mine are 11.5 on weld 15 wheels.Put lots of babby power in the slick and screw them on and you will be loving it.I run mine at 10 lbs and at 9 lbs the front end is in the air .
I hope you can fit the trans blanket around yours ,my headers always cook mine .The 1 7/8 with the 3 1/2 collector cook my trans blanket.
I run the MT drag slicks,the medium compound,the soft sucks at the big end and the hard compound you have to burn them for a mile to heat them up.Our cars are heavy so you can't go to soft a compound.
Hope this helps
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 10:49 AM
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Since you haven't finalized the rear-gear ratio, run as-tall a slick as you can, and choose a gear-ratio that will provide the finish-line RPM/MPH results you anticipate, based-on HP/weight.

With a 28" tire, 4.56s, and a typical 'loose' converter, I'm guessing you get about 8.2 MPH for every 500 RPM you turn:
I had the same set-up in my Z28 at one-time, and would turn less-than 6500 RPM @ 105 MPH in the traps.
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 11:08 AM
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For class racing where the last thousandth in ET counts, you want your tires as small and as light as will do the job. For bracket racing, where consistency is the key, a little overkill doesn't hurt. The larger the diameter the tire, all else being equal, the longer the footprint is has with the pavement. More tire contact equals more bite.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 08:12 PM
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Thank you gentlemen
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 09:25 PM
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Rodj, I would not waste my time screwing the tires to the rims, unless you are going to run tubes. Many guys do this, because they see others doing it.
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 10:07 PM
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The MT ET drags I am looking at are listed as tube types.
Can you safely run them without?

The MT site says
"Besides being required for air retention, Mickey Thompson racing tubes will enhance the reaction time, increase stiffness and reduce sidewall shock and deflection when launching".

I was always of the belief that the sidewall deflection/ shock was what allowed a slick to put a bigger footprint on the track v a street tyre ?
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 10:15 PM
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Run the tubes if you feel more comfortable. If it's a race only car, then why bother?
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by wheelsup
Run the tubes if you feel more comfortable. If it's a race only car, then why bother?
Phil ,
I have no desire to run tubes , just quoting what the maker says.
What size rear are you running?
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 05:31 PM
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Rodj, I'm sure the manufacturer intended the slicks to be run with tubes.
Rear tires???
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by wheelsup
Rodj, I'm sure the manufacturer intended the slicks to be run with tubes.
Rear tires???

Yes , what size rear slicks are you running?
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 09:58 PM
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14x32
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by rodj
By relocating the 4 bars to the inside of the frame, I can fit a 12" wide rim inside the stock wheel well
Same here....
I'm running 12" slick and they stick less than an inch outside the wheel well....
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