What's the best transmission fluid that I can put into my Powerglide (Transmissions Specialties Proline 5000)??

I assume that using Dextron III is a

 

In my unprofessional opinion, dexron 3 is all you need.

 

I used it in my 200R4 without a problem.. I'll check with Transmission Specialties to see what they are saying..

 

Dex III is just fine... For myself, I use Mobil 1 synthetic ATF (which is....wait for it.... Dexron III !)

The best conventional fluid to run in a racing automatic is good old Ford Type F (friction additive package worked the best over Dex), but it's hard to find these days.

 

I'd always heard that, and used Type F, when I bracket-raced.

 

Type f was used to match the asbestos in the friction discs.
It doesn't seem to hurt anything to use it, but no real reason to. Even Ford now uses Dexron III because there is no more asbestos in them.

 

Great! That will save me some money as I was already thinking in spending $$$ on racing ATF... I'm going to use Dextron III

 

I use Dextron III in mine But eather way ,I am still hoping the
700R4 will make one season.
My buddy runs B&M trick shift in his and it lasted 6 seasons but
He hasen't got near the HP I do.

 

I ran a TH200R4 for 2 seasons without a single issue.. I had about 750 HP with the nitrous... and about 650 HP without... However, it wasn't a cheap build.. Paid $3500 for tranny and converter.. I don't know who builds 700R4's to that power level but I'm sure that the 700R4's can also be built to hold up..

 

I had Mobil 1 in my 700R4 for the last 3.5 years since it was rebuilt for drag racing...the tranny builder put it in...two weeks ago I drained and refilled with the basic Dextron/Mercon "el cheapo" stuff...no problems since including 8 passes at the strip...

I should mention that when I had the tranny rebuilt I was only running a 2400 stall converter with no tranny cooler..maybe that is why he put in the Mobil 1...I have since gone to a 3200 stall with a tranny cooler so I felt the regular tranny fluid won't be an issue regarding heat...

 

I have over 4k in mine and a 4k stall converter
But with this big pig of a vett that weighs 3872 lbs they don't hold very long.My engine dynoed at 768 hp on the rack.I haven't used the nitrous yet but I have a 250 shot on it with a nos progressive timer.
I am the points leader right now in 2 classes and if I lose that,
I will most likely pop the button and see if the guard rail will hold the car.
I have my license for 135 mph and up 8.50 sec for NHRA.

 

3872 lbs is very heavy.. How did the Vette get so heavy? My '92 weights 3350 lbs and that's without any lightweight components How did yours gain 500 lbs?
Have you ever thought about removing some weight from the car? I got my '68 down to about 2800 lbs (with a full nitrous bottle) and it still has a interior (except for the passenger seat which was replaced by the nitrous bottle). If your 700R4's keep breaking, have you ever thought about a 4L80?
I went with a powerglide for my new build. It's a 434 (23 degree heads) with about 700 HP and a 250 shot of nitrous.. I should be in the high 8's @ 150 mph on the spray..

 

Dex 6 working fine in mine...........

 

The roll cage is scedual 40 that weighs a ton ,the car is stock with everything in place,The friend that installed the cage went crazy with the bars.The 434 is I think about 50 or 90 lbs more than the stock motor.I added bigger rotors up front.I went with the 4" high rise but by the time I got the pro stock scoop on and the tin around the carb the weight just kept climbing.
The dennys drive shafts added over 12 lbs just by them self.
I installed a bar under the trans to keep it in place and solid motor mounts.The mounts were another 4 lbs.Just little things but when I weighed it the big pig was heavier that the stock door weight and with my 170 lbs the car was a sled instead of a light weight streamlined race car.Even with the cage and all the safety crap Mike rice said he would only certify the car to 8.50 because of the weight.He said if this thing gets out of shape your will never stop it and NHRA is cracking down on the faster heavier cars.
Of course while Mike was at the track my car broke a half shaft and almost hit the tree,I only tinked the guard rail a tiny bit when it jerked back to the left I was in the tower lane,but he said see what I mean with less weight you would have stopped the car sooner.
That is when he pulled a roll of toliete paper out from under his jacket and said that was real intertaining, I think you might need this.
I checked with the trans guys out of LA and I should have gone that way after all the money I spent on this 700R4 manuel valve body and hardened everything.When I needed a trans they still did not have a tail shaft to go on the 4L80 that would fit the vett with a c brace.
I see they want $700.00 for the tail shaft to hook up the 4L80e but I can't see at this time spending $6k to make one fit until this trans breaks to the point I would be better off spending 6k.
I have the 434 and it is just over 700 hp on the dyno and I have a 100 shot on the car but, I have not hit it yet just want to see if I can make it through the season or I drop back in the points race at present, I am in first place and then I will let her rip.

 

my cage is chromoly and super light... I took 100 lbs off my '68 just by using the lightest wheels and tires that I could find.. Aerospace brakes all around took off another 100 lbs.. Race seat instead of stock seats took off about 70 lbs etc. etc. etc.. C3's have lots of weight savings potential.. I can see how it's more difficult on a C4.. The 4L80 and to make it fit is $$$ but it will be the last tranny you'll ever need.. I went with a Glide as I'm not driving the car on the street anymore even though it's still street legal...