Drag Radials
For the few that don't know me but would recognize me, this is Harrison- I've run the white Chevrolet Malibu in Real Street on Saturdays this past season. I'm turning 20, insurance is going down, and I'm interested in buying a new car. A friend of mine is likely going to sell me his 1998 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am (LS1). I'd definitely be interested in bracket racing it, but I also want to keep it as my daily driver. The car is likely in the 13.5-9 range.
With that being said, I expect traction to be a problem with whatever tires he has, and I'm interested in learning ANYTHING about drag radials because I will likely continue to points race. I did some research, but I haven't quite found the answers to some questions in my mind. Will I be able to drive with drag radials on the rears basically on a daily timeframe? Do these tires experience similar wear to "normal" radial street tires? How long can you last on a set of drag radials if you keep away from burnouts that last too long but tend to need the car for 10k or more miles per year?
The thought of the tires having a soft compound leads me to believe that I should get into the habit of changing tires/wheels for raceday. The track's a mile away and I can take care of it in my driveway, but the lack of tools in my garage is pretty sad. I might have to do some holiday shopping for myself in that department.
All help is appreciated!
-Harrison
Last edited by Harry7239; Nov 8, 2007 at 06:13 AM.
MT Drag radials are getting guys into the 7's, most will recommend little or no street use
Nitto 555r is supposedly the best for the street and ok for the track, I have no experience with them
In the C4 parts for sale are a couple sets of rims and drag radials currently that should fit the car - look for "GS" offset rims and you'll be ok unless your going lightweight like welds then you have to measure





MT Drag radials are getting guys into the 7's, most will recommend little or no street use
Nitto 555r is supposedly the best for the street and ok for the track, I have no experience with them
In the C4 parts for sale are a couple sets of rims and drag radials currently that should fit the car - look for "GS" offset rims and you'll be ok unless your going lightweight like welds then you have to measure





I have run the Nitto DR's on my vette full time for 3.5 years now..I am on my third set although this last set was slightly used when I got them...I put about 5,000 miles a year on the car and make over 200 passes at the strip every year including smoky burnouts...
This past Feb. I drove 11.5 hours each way to Richmond, raced in the National event and drove back the same day..no problems...hope this helps you...
Questions for you.
Stick or Auto?
Stock 10 bolt rear and what gears?
Any mods?
What class or classes do you plan to race?
Currently have 17" or 16" tires on the car?
Here's a good f-body link (includes Firebirds) http://www.camaroz28.com/
Last edited by kazman; Nov 8, 2007 at 03:09 PM. Reason: added link
>>I'm turning 20, insurance is going down, and I'm interested in buying a new car. A friend of mine is likely going to sell me his 1998 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am (LS1). I'd definitely be interested in bracket racing it, but I also want to keep it as my daily driver. The car is likely in the 13.5-9 range.<<
I'm a lot older than you but I had a 97 Camaro, and sold it to get my 96 Vette, & my insurance WENT DOWN A LOT I asked the insurance Co. why ?
Here is the answer I got... they (the ins Co.) look at the individual car and see how many accidents that model is involved in.. for example lets say that took 1000 Camaros and 100 of then were involved in accidents 10% ...they then look at 1000 Corvettes and only 4 get into accidents 4% because Camaros are less costly & the younger kids can afford them & get into more accidents.. however with Corvettes, only "OLD FARTS" can afford then thus less Corvettes are involved in accidents, so the insurance Co. think is a safer bet to insure a Vette because they are involved in less accidents on a percentage bases..
In the "real world" most Vetts are bought and driven by middle aged guys who never race them, and just go to car shows... however a young kid can buy a Camaro for 1/2 price of a Vette... and of course 17-20 yr olds are a lot more likely to get involved in accidents.. so its the CAR that the insurance Co. looks at...
I imagine a ZO6 might be more because it is a "known High Performance Car" but the run of the mill Vette.. like mine ran 13.2 bone stock.. and I got it to 12.28 without removing the heads or cats...
I bet you can get cheaper ins on a C4 Vette than on a 1998 - 2002 Camaro... Do some homework.. and let us know...
Last edited by jpee; Nov 8, 2007 at 06:04 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Questions for you.
Stick or Auto?
Stock 10 bolt rear and what gears?
Any mods?
What class or classes do you plan to race?
Currently have 17" or 16" tires on the car?
I don't have the car yet. It's a good buddy of mine's who needs to sell his car to get a tow vehicle, so the whole deal will be going on in about a month or two. I'll answer what I know at the moment.
The car is an automatic, and it is completely stock aside from SLP exhaust. I've always been thinking that 3.42 is the stock gear, but I'm not positive. I plan to race for points in Saturday night's Real Street division again, which is roughly 10-12 races. I'll likely run a handful of other events, which would approach 15ish races on the year with an average of one every 2-3 weeks.
I'm not sure on what size the tires/rims are, but here's a picture in case you can recognize them. http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...914_6_full.jpg
Last edited by Harry7239; Nov 10, 2007 at 12:11 AM.









