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I hope to put on my cheater kit this summer... I think I will run low 11's however... I am planning on some after market AFR heads.
What is the cut off ... for a roll bar? And can I get away with just a simple 4 point or less? I don't want to have a cross bar when I open the door. Truthful I don't want a roll bar at all...
Anybody have pics in a 68-77 C3 ??
I would like to get my car to run N/A..right up to the limit and still have the gas to go mid 10's.
I always wanted a 10 second street car that I could drive any place.
I hope to put on my cheater kit this summer... I think I will run low 11's however... I am planning on some after market AFR heads.
What is the cut off ... for a roll bar? And can I get away with just a simple 4 point or less? I don't want to have a cross bar when I open the door. Truthful I don't want a roll bar at all...
Anybody have pics in a 68-77 C3 ??
I would like to get my car to run N/A..right up to the limit and still have the gas to go mid 10's.
I always wanted a 10 second street car that I could drive any place.
Under 11.5 requires a 5pt bar, you can get a swing out bar.
If you go faster than 11.50 with a coupe (or Vert with hard top), you'll need a 5-point roll bar (6-point bar for IHRA).
For convertibles faster than 13.50 (without hard top) you also need a roll bar.
Here are pics of my roll cage.. This used to be a roll bar and I had my chassis shop add the extra tubing for the cage.. Certified to 8.50
Last edited by GrandSportC3; May 7, 2008 at 03:01 PM.
Yup...11.49 you enter roll bar land....lol...it is not bad at all with a swing out bar on the drivers side...you also need to get a 5 point harness and single layer fire jacket...I have just entered this world my ownself...he he...
BTW, I just spoke with Dale at Bowtie...I am bringing my Camaro to him next Tueday to tune up for the track....thanks for the contact...
Yup...11.49 you enter roll bar land....lol...it is not bad at all with a swing out bar on the drivers side...you also need to get a 5 point harness and single layer fire jacket...I have just entered this world my ownself...he he...
BTW, I just spoke with Dale at Bowtie...I am bringing my Camaro to him next Tueday to tune up for the track....thanks for the contact...
Hey he told me... He he will get you fix up up just right.
Hey-Holley, it was good to see you again at the track. Unfortunately, the needle and seat im my Carburetor was shot and causing the carb to load up. The second time we lined up I had to keep it idling very fast or it would stall. I pushed through the lights resulting in a red .033. I left and the next day next day Jerry, the fella I pit within addition to Fuzzy, had the part and installed it for me. My tach also stopped working, so I bought a tach circuit board from Ecklers. After installing it, I discover it was the tach filter that needed replacing. I removed to filter and have the tach connected directly to the distributor and it works for now. I will be racimg Satuday. Your car runs great with the LS1; I need to consider that engine. The choice would be easy, but I have a virgin four bolt 70010 block sitting in my garage. I'll have to think about the swap. I'd just like to run low 12's and be happy. Maybe, I'll see you Saturday at the races.
Yes. It was good to see you again also. Nice to see C3s at the track.
You would not regret a LS1 swap... FI or CARB it is a great way to make power vs gen 1 or Gen 2 Engines. You can always go to BOWTIE, Like Dan, if you needed help. However, I know you are skilled enough to perform the swap yourself. Of course I would help you anyway I can when time allows it.
With you old 4 bolt block ...I can sell it easy to my buddy. If the price is reasonable, he puts SBC in old 5.0 mustangs and sell them. They make great track cars.
As well as your car runs with the LS1 motor, there is little room for debate. I have this 69 in my garage that has been apart twice. It is lighter than the 79 and would make a super racer platform. I dunno...I have to think about it. If you find a good deal on a complete, low mileage LS1 motor let me know. I would only consider using a carburetor, so it would be much like your swap. We will talk next time at the track.
BTW...what stall converter is mated to your TH350 trans? You must have told me, but I forgot.
Here are a couple roll bars forum members installed in coupes.
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Both of those setups will add safety but not legality.. IHRA requires a 6-point bar and NHRA requires a 5-point bar.
Furthermore, those 2 setups mount the rear bars too low for NHRA or IHRA roll bar specs. The rear bars may not be more than 5 inches below the top of the main hoop!!
That is good to know, but what about the welds. I have seen some bars beautifully done with TIG welds and others not so pretty and obviously done with a stick welder. Is there criteria used by the tech inspector on welds, or is it a subjective evaluation?
As you know, there is a removable rear glass problem if the rear brace is installed too close to the glass and rear deck. Of course, this only applies to early C-3 coupes. This is a good old thread on installing a cage. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1291599
That is good to know, but what about the welds. I have seen some bars beautifully done with TIG welds and others not so pretty and obviously done with a stick welder. Is there criteria used by the tech inspector on welds, or is it a subjective evaluation?
As you know, there is a removable rear glass problem if the rear brace is installed too close to the glass and rear deck. Of course, this only applies to early C-3 coupes. This is a good old thread on installing a cage. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1291599