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When Do I Need A Roll Bar?

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Old May 7, 2008 | 01:23 PM
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Default When Do I Need A Roll Bar?

I hope to put on my cheater kit this summer... I think I will run low 11's however... I am planning on some after market AFR heads.

What is the cut off ... for a roll bar? And can I get away with just a simple 4 point or less? I don't want to have a cross bar when I open the door. Truthful I don't want a roll bar at all...

Anybody have pics in a 68-77 C3 ??


I would like to get my car to run N/A..right up to the limit and still have the gas to go mid 10's.

I always wanted a 10 second street car that I could drive any place.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by holley505
I hope to put on my cheater kit this summer... I think I will run low 11's however... I am planning on some after market AFR heads.

What is the cut off ... for a roll bar? And can I get away with just a simple 4 point or less? I don't want to have a cross bar when I open the door. Truthful I don't want a roll bar at all...

Anybody have pics in a 68-77 C3 ??


I would like to get my car to run N/A..right up to the limit and still have the gas to go mid 10's.

I always wanted a 10 second street car that I could drive any place.
Under 11.5 requires a 5pt bar, you can get a swing out bar.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 01:43 PM
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If you go faster than 11.50 with a coupe (or Vert with hard top), you'll need a 5-point roll bar (6-point bar for IHRA).
For convertibles faster than 13.50 (without hard top) you also need a roll bar.

Here are pics of my roll cage.. This used to be a roll bar and I had my chassis shop add the extra tubing for the cage.. Certified to 8.50



Last edited by GrandSportC3; May 7, 2008 at 03:01 PM.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 02:49 PM
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Under 11.50, unfortunately!

Ron
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Old May 7, 2008 | 04:20 PM
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wow... so ron you have a roll bar in yours also??

okay... new goal to run 11.5 on motor.

Then spray and get kicked out.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 04:21 PM
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BTW

I guess... chevy should just put a ROLL BAR in the new ZR1 corvette... it should got 10.99 bone stock.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 04:31 PM
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Yup...11.49 you enter roll bar land....lol...it is not bad at all with a swing out bar on the drivers side...you also need to get a 5 point harness and single layer fire jacket...I have just entered this world my ownself...he he...

BTW, I just spoke with Dale at Bowtie...I am bringing my Camaro to him next Tueday to tune up for the track....thanks for the contact...
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Old May 7, 2008 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by holley505
wow... so ron you have a roll bar in yours also??

okay... new goal to run 11.5 on motor.

Then spray and get kicked out.
No, so I keep it over 11.49 (or try to anyway), except at rentals. There they don't usually say anything!

Ron
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Old May 7, 2008 | 11:46 PM
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If you have to ask you most likely need one already
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Old May 8, 2008 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Fuzzy Dice
Yup...11.49 you enter roll bar land....lol...it is not bad at all with a swing out bar on the drivers side...you also need to get a 5 point harness and single layer fire jacket...I have just entered this world my ownself...he he...

BTW, I just spoke with Dale at Bowtie...I am bringing my Camaro to him next Tueday to tune up for the track....thanks for the contact...
Hey he told me... He he will get you fix up up just right.

BTW ask him if you can see the OTHER Chevys.
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Old May 10, 2008 | 01:10 AM
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Hey-Holley, it was good to see you again at the track. Unfortunately, the needle and seat im my Carburetor was shot and causing the carb to load up. The second time we lined up I had to keep it idling very fast or it would stall. I pushed through the lights resulting in a red .033. I left and the next day next day Jerry, the fella I pit within addition to Fuzzy, had the part and installed it for me. My tach also stopped working, so I bought a tach circuit board from Ecklers. After installing it, I discover it was the tach filter that needed replacing. I removed to filter and have the tach connected directly to the distributor and it works for now. I will be racimg Satuday. Your car runs great with the LS1; I need to consider that engine. The choice would be easy, but I have a virgin four bolt 70010 block sitting in my garage. I'll have to think about the swap. I'd just like to run low 12's and be happy. Maybe, I'll see you Saturday at the races.
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Old May 10, 2008 | 07:29 AM
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Yes. It was good to see you again also. Nice to see C3s at the track.

You would not regret a LS1 swap... FI or CARB it is a great way to make power vs gen 1 or Gen 2 Engines. You can always go to BOWTIE, Like Dan, if you needed help. However, I know you are skilled enough to perform the swap yourself. Of course I would help you anyway I can when time allows it.

With you old 4 bolt block ...I can sell it easy to my buddy. If the price is reasonable, he puts SBC in old 5.0 mustangs and sell them. They make great track cars.
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Old May 10, 2008 | 10:43 AM
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As well as your car runs with the LS1 motor, there is little room for debate. I have this 69 in my garage that has been apart twice. It is lighter than the 79 and would make a super racer platform. I dunno...I have to think about it. If you find a good deal on a complete, low mileage LS1 motor let me know. I would only consider using a carburetor, so it would be much like your swap. We will talk next time at the track.

BTW...what stall converter is mated to your TH350 trans? You must have told me, but I forgot.

Last edited by Red 69; May 10, 2008 at 10:53 AM.
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Old May 12, 2008 | 07:47 AM
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hughes 10inch 3000 stall
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Old May 12, 2008 | 11:21 AM
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Here are a couple roll bars forum members installed in coupes.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old May 12, 2008 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Red 69
Here are a couple roll bars forum members installed in coupes.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
Both of those setups will add safety but not legality.. IHRA requires a 6-point bar and NHRA requires a 5-point bar.
Furthermore, those 2 setups mount the rear bars too low for NHRA or IHRA roll bar specs. The rear bars may not be more than 5 inches below the top of the main hoop!!

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Old May 12, 2008 | 01:41 PM
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That is good to know, but what about the welds. I have seen some bars beautifully done with TIG welds and others not so pretty and obviously done with a stick welder. Is there criteria used by the tech inspector on welds, or is it a subjective evaluation?

As you know, there is a removable rear glass problem if the rear brace is installed too close to the glass and rear deck. Of course, this only applies to early C-3 coupes. This is a good old thread on installing a cage. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1291599

This is one of many sources of prefabricated roll bars for a C-3
http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant...ry_Code=AP7380
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Old May 12, 2008 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Red 69
That is good to know, but what about the welds. I have seen some bars beautifully done with TIG welds and others not so pretty and obviously done with a stick welder. Is there criteria used by the tech inspector on welds, or is it a subjective evaluation?

As you know, there is a removable rear glass problem if the rear brace is installed too close to the glass and rear deck. Of course, this only applies to early C-3 coupes. This is a good old thread on installing a cage. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1291599

This is one of many sources of prefabricated roll bars for a C-3
http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant...ry_Code=AP7380
If the material is not chromoly, a MIG welder can be used. For Chromoly, TIG welding is required!
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