Here are a few pics from my 327 w/ 350 crank in it.

A little background:
The engine was assembled 15 years ago and broke in on 10-30 valvoline, then switched to 20-50 racing oil. Its had 200-250 redline passes on it, so I decided to check things out. Machine work was done by a pro engine builder. I did the assembly. I have the small journal rods, and wondered if these are the preferred set to have?
Also the bearings look like they've got hot, starved for oil, or what?
Any recommendations?

Thanks guys.

 

I have a 327 in my Stock Eliminator car. I use small journal crank/rods because the crankshaft is lighter than large journal. However this makes the total bob-weight of the piston/rod slightly heavier because the large and small journal rods are the same, just the hole they bore for the bearing is smaller, thus keeping a little more material on the rod. Do you know what the bearing clearance is on the rod? And why did you change to 20w 50 oil? In my expierience, your bearing looks a little beat up due to cold starts with the thick oil. If you can maintain good oil pressure with thinner oil, you should use it. I only use 5w 20 in my 7200 rpm 327. That word "racing" on the bottle of oil makes people think it is special and fast. Where as thinner oil with proper pressure is easier on the engine, and the less work the crankshaft has do do cutting through its own windage, means more horse power. If you had a dirty asembly, and had dirt pass through the oiling system you should see more definate lines cut in your bearing, with a dirty assembly the lines can cut to the copper quickly. Detonation also makes the copper evident quicker than normal, on the top bearing. It's hard to see in the picture, but the one of the asembled piston/rod has a smudge on the bearing at about the 1:30 o-clock posistion. Is that bearing down to copper? If so, that can explain the uniformed scarring on the bottom bearing too. And if those are stock rod bolts, junk them. The cost of ARP rod bolts is cheap comapared tho the cost of failure. And I am just wondering, but what do you consider your red-line?

 

The bearing clearance for the rods was .0015-.0025
I bought into the scheme of advertising....its really good to hear your s/e car runs this somewhat same combo. So these rods look like the ones to have for s/j cranks?
I have no copper showing in any of the bearings, just through the first layer into the second. The bearings all show even wear, on top and bottom. They look pretty consistent.
I have a set of ARP's in there now, and plan on replacing them with the same. Do I need to resize when replacing them?
I redline (have the rev-limiter set at) 6500. I shift at 62-6300.
So you have main studs or the stock bolt setup?

Thanks for your input, it is great to have.

 

I have main studs, they also mount my windage tray.

You should have the rods resized when replacing the bolts, just for good measure. It may not be 100% necessary, but you can't be too careful. I reuse my ARP rod bolts over and over. I tear my stuff down like 3 times a year. What is the part # on that bearing?

And to clarify, stock small journal and large journal rods may be all together physically different in size. But many aftermarket rods use the same blank for small and large journal, and bore the hole accordingly.

 

Over and over? do you use the stretch method of tightening, and keep a record of overall length? I have just tightened mine to 40# like 4 times now I think. OK to reuse?
My bearing part # is F/M 2555AP...010US...NX


What main studs are you using?

 

I am pretty sure I have used the same set of ARP rod bolts for the last half a dozen freshens or so. I will most likely replace them next time around. I torque to 40 or 45 lbs, I would have to check notes.

ARP main studs p/n 134-5501 7/16"(typical) with a 3/8" 24tpi step down at the end for the windage tray to bolt to.

 

thanks for the info....just for the record, this is posted in the C1-C2 section as well. I'm looking for all the info I can get.