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60' Consistency

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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 11:58 AM
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Default 60' Consistency

I am having trouble running a consistent 60’ time and I’m tired of breaking out when I think I have a safe dial in. I’m running BFG 275-15 drag radials at 18 psi and 60’ times are ranging from 1.63s to 1.69s. The 60’s are not tracking track well with density altitude and track prep is beyond my control. I’m trying to be as consistent as possible with the burn out and the line lock works great. Would true racing slicks help? Your advice is welcome.
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 12:24 PM
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Are you spinning the tires? Are you staging consistently? A couple of inches will change your 60 quite a bit.
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ralph
Are you spinning the tires? Are you staging consistently? A couple of inches will change your 60 quite a bit.
It does not sound or feel like I’m spinning the tires.

Good point, on the staging. I may be staging deeper sometimes than others. I know there are advantages to a slightly deeper stage but for consistency do you think I should stage as shallow as possible?
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Clint's C3
It does not sound or feel like I’m spinning the tires.

Good point, on the staging. I may be staging deeper sometimes than others. I know there are advantages to a slightly deeper stage but for consistency do you think I should stage as shallow as possible?
That is a problem with 'bumping-in', unless you are very accomplished at it:
reducing rollout for better RT also slows-down your ET, especially down-low


whatever you do, I think you should strive to be consistent, above all else, from run-to-run-to-run, changing a single thing at a time, then noting the result
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Clint's C3
It does not sound or feel like I’m spinning the tires.

Good point, on the staging. I may be staging deeper sometimes than others. I know there are advantages to a slightly deeper stage but for consistency do you think I should stage as shallow as possible?
You need to be able to stage exactly the same spot every time be it shallow, deep, or bumping in between. I can't bump to save my life. I either have to go all the way deep by just turning the prestage out or shallow and very carefully "just" turn the stage bulb on. A benifit of deep stageing is that it eliminates almost all of the rollout therefore stablizing 60' times. I deep stage one car and shallow the other. I do perfer to go deep but have to work with each car's RT. I would guess that your staging a few inches differently each time.

Last edited by kazman; Nov 3, 2009 at 02:42 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by kazman
You need to be able to stage exactly the same spot every time be it shallow, deep, or bumping in between. I can't bump to save my life. I either have to go all the way deep by just turning the prestage out or shallow and very carefully "just" turn the stage bulb on. A benifit of deep stageing is that it eliminates almost all of the rollout therefore stablizing 60' times. I deep stage one car and shallow the other. I do perfer to go deep but have to work with each car's RT. I would guess that your staging a few inches differently each time.
Unfortunately, in our series, if you deep stage and turn out the top bulb it's a red light. I know it's better to deep stage and keep both bulbs on, to keep all the time “on the clock", but I'm not that good. :o

I guess I will try to be consistent and stage as shallow as possible. Thanks for the advice. I will hold off on the slicks for now, at least until the BFGs wear out.
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 05:59 PM
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Sounds to me the problem might be the connection between the gas pedal and the steering wheel, Not the car.
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mackeyred96
Sounds to me the problem might be the connection between the gas pedal and the steering wheel, Not the car.
Yep.
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 09:30 AM
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Yep, more often than not it’s me that lets the car down, not the other way around, but I refuse to give up.
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 10:58 AM
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Good man...don't ever give up...stage as shallow as possible every time...check your tire pressure to make sure it is the same and do the same burn out every time...I count by one/one thousand myself...also, if you go up on the converter make sure you are exactly on the same rpm every time you launch...
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 03:01 PM
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Got it, thanks!

1) Check your tire pressure to make sure it is the same

Always 18 psi

2) Do the same burn out every time...

Just installed a line lock which helps a lot. I put it in second, let it shift up and hold ~5000 rpm. It takes about 2 seconds to generate a nice cloud of smoke, better than my avatar.

3) If you go up on the converter make sure you are exactly on the same rpm every time you launch

2,000 rpm works OK and doesn’t pull me through the lights

4) Stage as shallow as possible

I’m going to try this next time for sure. If it affects my reaction time I will have to adjust.

5) Don’t ever give up.

Never!

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Old Nov 6, 2009 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Clint's C3
Got it, thanks!

1) Check your tire pressure to make sure it is the same

Always 18 psi

2) Do the same burn out every time...

Just installed a line lock which helps a lot. I put it in second, let it shift up and hold ~5000 rpm. It takes about 2 seconds to generate a nice cloud of smoke, better than my avatar.

3) If you go up on the converter make sure you are exactly on the same rpm every time you launch

2,000 rpm works OK and doesn’t pull me through the lights

4) Stage as shallow as possible

I’m going to try this next time for sure. If it affects my reaction time I will have to adjust.

5) Don’t ever give up.

Never!

Replys here can be burtally honest. Keep at it. IMO you need to stabalize your 60'. Once you get the 60' times (whatever they are) consistant you can adjust for the tree. As you stated its really tuff to dial when the 60's are bounching all around.
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