C5 - 373 rwhp
I need a little more holding power for my A4 at the line. With current stock pads car begins to creep at 2800. What pads to you guys recommend?

 

Hawk HPS rear pads.

 

Many drivrs may/will have an opinion here and it could have some dependence on your selection of rotors, which I've been using Girodiscs (http://www.girodisc.com/C5-Corvette_c_60.html) until recently changing the fronts over to Strange (keeping the Girodiscs in the rear).

I have a C5 and ran a Pro 9.50 index last year and then moved to an 8.90 index this year; usually trapping between 147-152 mph.

I've been running Ferodo Racing (Federal Mogul) DS2500 pads and never had an issue... never had to pull my 'chute and felt condifent they would stop the car under all conditions (street and strip). This included running a few tracks with less than optimal shut down areas.

I've never had any noise, but they do produce some dust (although less than others I've seen).

http://www.ferodoracing.com/it/car_racing/ds_2500.htm

Whatever you decide... Good luck, Best Wishes... Enjoy!

P.S. As for holding at the line... I don't use my brakes. I have a T/B ;-)

 

Kaz
I am surpised you said "rear". I thought they were basically useless at the drag strip. Why not front?

 

you need good pads in the rear to keep the car from creaping while staging.

 

but at 2800 rpm, that is about the max you're going to get out of a street-able TC

 

The rear brakes hold the car on the starting line not the fronts. 2800 is pretty high to footbrake. Consider going deep? I go deep in the firebird and launch between 1500 and 1900.

 

Ah deep. Yes. Interesting thing. With my Yank ss3600 the car needs a certain rpm to launch correctly. Deep, if the rpm is too high (2000) I tend to red light. I would have been better off with my stock converter for deep. I take any suggestions I can get!

 

We stock many different brake pads for drag and road racing, and can ship out same day if necessary.

 

Kaz

What are your 60's and your ET's?

 

There is no given rule to figure if a car is Shallow or Deep per 60' and ET. Two cars that have very different times can have the same reaction time. The cars reaction time is its ability to move a few inches out of the beam when the car is launched. A 14 second car with a 2.15 60' can react the same as a 10 second car with a 1.50 60'. A high powered car spends a lot of time flexing the supensing, turning the back tires (wrinkles) and moving the front wheels up not out.

My firebird is 1.60 - 1.70 60' and runs 12.0.

I spoke to a guy this season and he agreeded with me that there are a lot of 10.0 cars that should be staged deep. Their drivers are anticipaing the last yellow whether they know it or not.

I'm a believer that the driver hits the same spot and adjusts the car. Once the car is adjusted whatever 60' and ET it gives you is right for that car. Once that is established you will see a relatinship between 60' and your lights. If I stage a bit too deep I will be say .020 quicker on my light and .020 slower in 60'. I can tell if I'm doing a good job staging in the exact same place.

I feel that you need to have a car that is adjustable for the tree. Tracks rollout vary track to track and even lane to lane. I figured out last season that a cars reaction will vary .040 to .060 (or more) depending on the time of year. My cars react quicker in the good air of spring and fall. Learned that the hard way last year. Finally found out why my lights tend to go away mid season and come back in the fall.