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They make it sound like any slippage on the gear change is a bad thing, but they simply had too much slippage on the shifts without the solenoid. They are missing the sweet spot of controlled slip where it's a little quicker, parts don't break, and you can keep radials stuck. I don't know of any racers that prefer the solenoid style release after having used both types of delays.
The below graphs show "Psi" data recorded from a hydraulic throwout bearing, while using an adjustable hyd cylinder to control the release of the clutch pedal.
...This graph shows a range of incrementally increasing amounts of "initial hit" available, basically giving you the ability to instantly release the clutch pedal to a precise point in the pedal's travel. This is important because it gives you the ability to temporarily withhold or "dial out" excess clutch clamp pressure, which would otherwise pull the engine down and cause a bog. Notice how quick and sharp the transition is from unrestricted to delayed travel...
...This graph shows a range of secondary pedal release rates, all using the same "initial hit" setting. This gives you the ability to precisely and independently control the clutch pedal's travel rate beyond the "initial hit" point, which is important because it gives you the ability to separately control how long the clutch slips...
With the Magnus style inline restriction delay, the curve basically ends up looking like the 3.5 turn setting on the second graph. This more vertical pressure curve results from compromising to improve reaction time, at the cost of not enough slip time. It's also common for Magnus style users to partially engage or "pre-load" the clutch prior to launch, an effort to cut reaction time to allow more slip time, but consistency suffers as you are relying on your foot to find the same amount of preload each launch.
Got all of the pieces in. Just need the time to install it.
Where will you tap into the oem line running between slave and master cylinder? Right where it meets the master cylinder? Take good pics when you install it.
Where will you tap into the oem line running between slave and master cylinder? Right where it meets the master cylinder? Take good pics when you install it.
Thanks!
I'll likely get rid of the rubber connection piece in the middle of the line. I will probably have to swap one of the 12" and 6" lines around so I can get it to come up at a better angle.
I'm putting in a different set of headers in the next two weeks, so I'll take that opportunity to install it then, while I have that extra room. Good pics will be taken.
My tuner gave me 2 clutch master cylinder fittings to use instead of the compression fittings. Just ordered the -3an female to -4an male expanders I need for that. This will make it pretty much plug and play and 100% reversible if it doesn't work how I want it to.
I may postpone this as I am having some clutch woes currently.
I would be willing to sell everything:
Line lock Solenoid
Adjustable ball valve
(2) 6" -4 AN lines
(2) 12" -4 AN lines
(2) JIC AN conversion fittings for the hardline
12v relay with harness plug
Add-a-circuit
Momentary switch
Wiring
11-20-2017, 11:51 AM
