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Either I'm terrible at using the search feature on this forum or nobody has really posted up anything about an NHRA legal battery cut off for a C6 Z06 or ZR1? I'm trying to not reinvent the wheel here if somebody has something that works well, but I need to install a master cutoff even though the battery was originally in the trunk on these cars and was not relocated. Best I can find in the NHRA rulebook is below.
My problem is that the NHRA rule book says it needs to cutoff ALL electrical functions but that just doesn't work with these cars since the doors open electrically so I'm just trying to figure out a way to make the cutoff stop the engine while still allowing the doors to function as OE. This means using the cutoff in a way not allowed in their rule book.
Assuming their point is to be able to stop the engine from the outside then I should be able to just use a relay setup to cut PCM power. Otherwise use a big solid state relay or switch to cut power in the traditional way with separate power sources for both the BCM and RCDLR, but anything that I come up with is just not going to fit the rule book due to their "all electric functions" wording. What do you guys do for this on a street car that has factory doors, locks, etc and passes tech?
I believe the reason they say "all power" is to reduce the chance of a spark igniting any fuel that may have spilled.
So, you're gonna have a tough time working through the electric door issue. Try calling Mark Carlyle. While he's full on racecar now, I'm pretty sure he had a battery cutoff back in the day when he still drove his C6Z on the street.
As for the wiring to kill everything, I've installed a relay back by the battery and it works. My car is in the chassis shop now, so i can't get any pics of it.
I looked into leaving power to the doors and decided it was safer/easier to rely on manual door pulls ( I still have electric for convenience). I relocated the drivers inside pull near my right thigh so the window net would not fall on it. I also removed the power latch from the trunk and install Aerocatch latches making it easier for someone to get to the emergency door pull.
I have tested some external manual latches, just have to decide on one and finish it!
Diagram below is the most basic way to kill the car that will pass tech, but you do still have a fused wire that is hot from the battery to the alternator at all times. My new setup uses a dual pole switch adding an emergency stop to the Racepak Smartwire, which kills the engine eliminating the need for the larger gauge charge wire to the rear. Not sure if this will hurt the alternator or not, but we will see.
Battery is in the left cubby, switch in the right with the rod drilled straight back thru the bumper. Its easy enough to remove the rod so people dont kill your car every time you park!
I believe the reason they say "all power" is to reduce the chance of a spark igniting any fuel that may have spilled.
So, you're gonna have a tough time working through the electric door issue. Try calling Mark Carlyle. While he's full on racecar now, I'm pretty sure he had a battery cutoff back in the day when he still drove his C6Z on the street.
As for the wiring to kill everything, I've installed a relay back by the battery and it works. My car is in the chassis shop now, so i can't get any pics of it.
Good luck with your project.
Yeah I've reached out to Carlyle racing to see if they have a solution since they do plenty of drag racing with the Corvette platform but haven't heard anything back. Figured they might have a kit or something they sell for this stuff.
I do have a question though about your relay in the back, assuming that's just cutting off power at the battery then technically wouldn't the car still run off of the alternator if you hit the cutoff switch with it already running? I haven't tried that part myself yet but I guess I assumed that it wouldn't kill the car with the alternator still powering things the way the factory has it wired. If that does kill the car then I think I can make something work to keep the BCM and RCDLR powered up separate of the cutoff switch.
I looked into leaving power to the doors and decided it was safer/easier to rely on manual door pulls ( I still have electric for convenience). I relocated the drivers inside pull near my right thigh so the window net would not fall on it. I also removed the power latch from the trunk and install Aerocatch latches making it easier for someone to get to the emergency door pull.
I have tested some external manual latches, just have to decide on one and finish it!
Diagram below is the most basic way to kill the car that will pass tech, but you do still have a fused wire that is hot from the battery to the alternator at all times. My new setup uses a dual pole switch adding an emergency stop to the Racepak Smartwire, which kills the engine eliminating the need for the larger gauge charge wire to the rear. Not sure if this will hurt the alternator or not, but we will see.
Yeah my only hangup with exterior manual latches is that I actually drive this car to work sometimes or to a movie, etc and I don't want to risk somebody being able to just walk over to the car and open the door.
How you have it wired in that diagram is one of the typical ways to wire a standard cutoff so the alternator can't power the vehicle even if the cutoff is switched off. My only issue is the hot alternator wire and having to run it but something has to give regardless.
06-12-2018, 05:54 PM
NHRA legal battery cut off C6 Z06
