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Do I need a girdle?

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Old Mar 6, 2005 | 09:23 PM
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Default Do I need a girdle?

No I'm not over weight!
My 434 ci Motown engine with big solid roller cam is abusing the valve assembly.
I broke a few valve springs last fall but that was mostly due to nitrous problems. This spring I snapped a few of the threaded locks.
Do you think a girdle would help?
All thoughts welcome.
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Old Mar 7, 2005 | 08:36 AM
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What is the lift and duration of the cam and specs on the springs?

I run a Crane gold stud girdle on mine, specs in sig
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Old Mar 7, 2005 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
What is the lift and duration of the cam and specs on the springs?

I run a Crane gold stud girdle on mine, specs in sig
I too run the Crane gold stud girdle. I think if you have a solid roller cam then with the stiff springs required to control the lifters on the cam, a girdle is a very good idea. Now if you're running aluminum heads, then that's another reason to eliminate your rocker studs from flexing
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Old Mar 7, 2005 | 12:43 PM
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IMO - anytime you raise valve seat pressure above 115 lbs.; run a girdle.
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 10:17 PM
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I your running aluminum heads it is a really good idea. I have had the rocker studs pull out with a a big piece of the head still attached.
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 09:49 AM
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I have not left home with out a stud girdle in many years. I think for a 23 degree head that the Crane Stud girdle is about the best I've seen. You will have to mod the Allen rocker locking nuts if you use any other rockers than Crane gold aluminum roller rockers though.

I also don't understand how N2O could break a spring?

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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 11:40 AM
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I read this tip on another board and it made so much sense to me. I'd never thought about it before. He said that he would cut pieces of 1/2" stainless thin wall tubing and use them as crush sleeves. They take up that little bit of slack that's there on the trunion from the lash when you run a solid lifter cam.

That hammering action is probably what's breaking the adjusters.

Do that with a girdle and you've got yourself a real strong valvetrain.
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by SloRvette
I read this tip on another board and it made so much sense to me. I'd never thought about it before. He said that he would cut pieces of 1/2" stainless thin wall tubing and use them as crush sleeves. They take up that little bit of slack that's there on the trunion from the lash when you run a solid lifter cam.

That hammering action is probably what's breaking the adjusters.

Do that with a girdle and you've got yourself a real strong valvetrain.

I was trying to visualize this above idea. I've just never seen it. Anyway the stud bending action is the spring resistance to compression. If the stud sways back and forth during rocker action your never going to get full valve lift and your tip is going to be all over the top of the stem. You could not even set the valves correct with play being another factor. With a girdle you install it snug and then go to setting the lash on each valve. So your studs are all alinged first.
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