What's the RPM limit of a 350 shortblock?
#1
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What's the RPM limit of a 350 shortblock?
Assuming the valvetrain can handle it, what is the RPM limit of the 350 shortblock itself? (gen 1 small blocks in this case).
Are there different limits on 350s of the 70s versus 350s of the 80s years and so on?
Are there different limits on 350s of the 70s versus 350s of the 80s years and so on?
#2
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Depends. The LT-1s got forged cranks and higher quality rods that were produced from the production forgings.
Basic 350s won't rev beyond 5500 due to induction and exhaust limitations, but they should be reliable to 6000 as long as you don't run them out of oil.
Oil starvation is probaby what initiates most catastrophic bottom end failures, not a rod or crank breaking.
Duke
Basic 350s won't rev beyond 5500 due to induction and exhaust limitations, but they should be reliable to 6000 as long as you don't run them out of oil.
Oil starvation is probaby what initiates most catastrophic bottom end failures, not a rod or crank breaking.
Duke
#3
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Depends upon the components within the shortblock and their condition. A properly built 350 bottom end should be reliable to in excess of 7k. At the same time, a poorly built or worn 350 could grenade at 4k. Race 350's have exceeded 10k but we're talking high $$ engines that get high $$ rebuilds after every race.
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#5
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I've seen some articles in the past where they take a junkyard 350 out of a 70s car, a basic smog motor / two bolt main, and dyno it with new top end parts. They were making pulls up to 5800 I believe.
In another article, they bought a rebuilt 2 bolt shortblock, and were spinning that one to 6000.
I wanted to get some real opinions from experienced guys, without the magazine bs, because the mag guys won't mention that the engine blew up going down the road three months later
In another article, they bought a rebuilt 2 bolt shortblock, and were spinning that one to 6000.
I wanted to get some real opinions from experienced guys, without the magazine bs, because the mag guys won't mention that the engine blew up going down the road three months later
#6
The two bolt block will live as will the cast crank. My only concern would be with the rods. My 355 in my 71 is making 308rwhp on the stock rods, and until I installed a rev limiter recently, I was frequently turning 6400 rpm. I now limit it to 6000 for "peace of mind". I did use ARP rod bolts which I would consider a must for anything over 5500.
I will also mention I have a street rod that i built when i was a kid. It's a 4 bolt 350 with cast crank and stock GM rods out of a truck and ARP rod bolts. This one turns 7500+. I replaced the stock cast pistons with forged years ago due to cracking on ever one of them, so the cast pistons deffinately don't like high RPM
I would feel better having better parts in both of these motors. BUT with decades of abuse on both of them, I think it's safe to say that you can get by with the stock stuff if needed.
I will also mention I have a street rod that i built when i was a kid. It's a 4 bolt 350 with cast crank and stock GM rods out of a truck and ARP rod bolts. This one turns 7500+. I replaced the stock cast pistons with forged years ago due to cracking on ever one of them, so the cast pistons deffinately don't like high RPM
I would feel better having better parts in both of these motors. BUT with decades of abuse on both of them, I think it's safe to say that you can get by with the stock stuff if needed.
#7
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Hmmm so far I'd say about 10,000 rpm. + (Nascar)
You did say the valve train could handle it. Well the bottom end if built right with a dry sump can handle it if your talking racing engine.
Now if you are talkin bone stock... (year? size?) heavy cast pistons and
a stock ignition gets pretty lazy past 6000 anyway but if the valve train (and ign.) is up to it ... were talkin 7000 easy. Doesn't the LT4 redline at 6500 or 6800? ('69 302 from the factory 7000). Just don't throw it around a corner while your doin' it........BANG!
You did say the valve train could handle it. Well the bottom end if built right with a dry sump can handle it if your talking racing engine.
Now if you are talkin bone stock... (year? size?) heavy cast pistons and
a stock ignition gets pretty lazy past 6000 anyway but if the valve train (and ign.) is up to it ... were talkin 7000 easy. Doesn't the LT4 redline at 6500 or 6800? ('69 302 from the factory 7000). Just don't throw it around a corner while your doin' it........BANG!
#11
Melting Slicks
Hmmmmm now dont free rev the motor bad bad bad. But in gear keep the foot on the floor till it stops pulling then change gears. Actually you should change gears if the next gear will pull harder or with the same amount of pull as the previous gear. Hope that makes sense.
#12
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Originally Posted by SHAKERATTLEROLL
Hmmmmm now dont free rev the motor bad bad bad. But in gear keep the foot on the floor till it stops pulling then change gears. Actually you should change gears if the next gear will pull harder or with the same amount of pull as the previous gear. Hope that makes sense.
Heh heh heh, My dad tells me that back in the '60s a lot of guys blew up their 283 engines because they kept on pulling strong all the way up to the point of the explosion
#13
Safety Car
11,500 rpm's under load,not free wheeling.
Small block 350 315 ci destroked.
16 holes around the ring land for compression.
Joe hunt mag.
1050 holley dominator.
High volum oil pump low presure.
Engine builder Mike Hays in 1969 Huntington Beach California.
Ran 10.50's in 3400 lb nova.
Howard alum rods brooks pistons.
Lockerman heads.
Good for 50 runs.
Engines were built for 10,000 and guaranteed to run your car on the record for your class,or your money back.
Only one was ever returned from florida.
The end of that storie.
Person brought car from Florida on trailor.
Rented track for the day,first run in his chevelle 10.43 ,he said it would only run 11's.
He had to pay for the track and the tow to California and back to Florida.
To look up info See Drag Scoop mag in 68 and 69.Pictures of the Drag Scoop Nova.
The car also held the IHRA record for d hotrod 1 and c hotrod 2
Small block 350 315 ci destroked.
16 holes around the ring land for compression.
Joe hunt mag.
1050 holley dominator.
High volum oil pump low presure.
Engine builder Mike Hays in 1969 Huntington Beach California.
Ran 10.50's in 3400 lb nova.
Howard alum rods brooks pistons.
Lockerman heads.
Good for 50 runs.
Engines were built for 10,000 and guaranteed to run your car on the record for your class,or your money back.
Only one was ever returned from florida.
The end of that storie.
Person brought car from Florida on trailor.
Rented track for the day,first run in his chevelle 10.43 ,he said it would only run 11's.
He had to pay for the track and the tow to California and back to Florida.
To look up info See Drag Scoop mag in 68 and 69.Pictures of the Drag Scoop Nova.
The car also held the IHRA record for d hotrod 1 and c hotrod 2
Last edited by REDC4CORVETTE; 05-20-2005 at 05:44 AM.
#14
Race Director
I got a nice little 327 4 bolt main punched to 331 cid.............very mild build with OEM crank/valve train/Rhoads Lifters /steel 2.02 double hump heads and been up to many 7K revs since 1985. Still goin strong in my 68' Camaro with 30K miles
#15
SHAKERATTLEROLL your right there mate. its why WRC cars change early (about 5K i think) coz the restrictors mean the motors make big torque but low BHP. i think some teams actualy dyno the cars to see when the in gear torque curves overlap (ie when the next gear makes more WTQ than the one your in). now thats serious stuff!
#16
Instructor
LT1s seem good to 7,000 with a good valve train
most all SBC stuff should go 6,000 with good valve train parts.
It is usually the valve train that lets go
most all SBC stuff should go 6,000 with good valve train parts.
It is usually the valve train that lets go
#17
It depends on what you have and what you want to do with it. A stock 350 with nodular iron crank, cast rods and cast pistons is probably good to 6000-6500 rpm at the drag strip where you only touch the high rpm and then upshift. If you are hot lapping Daytona, You would probably not want to use more than 5500 for sustained high speed. If you hav a zz4 with steel crank, forged rods and forged pistons, 7500 is probably ok. One thing to keep in mind is that a cam that works at high rpm (above 7000 rpm) won't make torque down low. You can build a small block to rev above 7000 safely, but you probably won't want to drive it on the street.
#18
Melting Slicks
I had a 327 several years back I used in my race car. A 77 Monte Carlo, you know the land yacht Montes. I didn't have anything exotic in the motor at all just decent performance parts with an Isky circle track cam. Dart II heads 2.02 yada, yada... It sounded great and propelled the 3777 pound car to an even 14.00 ET
Could have went faster but I only had a 600cfm performer carb on top of an open plenum manifold.
That was one of those motors you wish you had back!
Could have went faster but I only had a 600cfm performer carb on top of an open plenum manifold.
That was one of those motors you wish you had back!
#20
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I have a stock bottom end in my 80 107k and i did a vortec and cam swap. Better springs were needed in the vortecs to handle the lift but since the swap i have shifted at 6500 many times assuming my tach is right. I was surprised but it still feels strong so i just keep the pedal on the floor. If i blow the motor i'll just put all the gas money i'll be saving into the big block and get it done sooner.