Coil wire length
-Greg





Yes, you are right to limit the length. Since your car is NCRS. I'd think about punching a hole in the fire wall and mounting it straight back under the dash.
I have my Crane digital box in the cool air and away from under hood RF in the wiper channel. I could have also placed my small Crane coil there also.
-Greg






Any way click under my avitar and it's a not so good picture of the crane box in the wiper area. I know what your talking about with high energy RF off these new ignitions.
Since I installed these things - it's been good by to radar Laser detector. It's in constant alarm mode.
Last edited by gkull; Jun 22, 2005 at 04:14 PM.
The coil location is still a TBD but looks like it has to be somewhere on the right side of the firewall or in the top of the fender well above the trans cooler (maybe hidden from view behind the expansion tank?).
-Greg


This is counter productive as u bought the performance coil to increase spark voltage in the first place. Now solid core racing wire is a different story as it has hardly any resistance - but dosen't last to long on the street with hi-vibrations.Sorry i can't calculate how much as i would need to know coil output voltage for your system to do so. But for example for a typical hi-perf ign putting 50,000v out of coil through 1' of wire at 500ohms would pass 10 amps (50,000/500) of current in a spark/burst - but of course other resistance in circuit reduce this more. But to use 2' of wire now reduces current to 5 amps (50,000v/1000ohms).
Bored enough? Ok, ok, but i think its easy to see now what happens when adding wire.
Ok i looked at ur pix and don't c how a big yellow coil in that highly moded eng comp would hurt the color coordination.
Are we talking Fung Suway in the engine compt here?
BTW Greg have u considered decaf? Now i c what happens when an aero engineer buys a old corvette.
Well i can't laugh too much as went to replace my broken fan shroud and 3-4yrs later (lost count) i have finaly started it after replacing: mtr mounts, fan shroud, radiator, all new shroud seals, camshaft, cyl heads, headers, intake, fuel pmp, fuel tank, charcoal EVC canister, and most all rubber fuel lines on intire car. Repaired other items too like replace rear bumber to but can't recall'm all right now.Well anyways most electrical components are fine at chassis ground which is connected to the batt neg. Most electrical problems occur when electrical gnd is lost from engine to frame. I met one owner who found his entire dash power & lighting was grounded through the coil positive - he found this by way of heated/melted wire. Many hot rodders that remove the eng to frame gnds end up with current travel through rotating u-joints creating a strobe light show as car speeds up and slows down.
And i highly doubt those control boxes cases need to be at floating ground - my guess is ok to gnd both. BTW i installed my MSD 6AL box inside the passenger compt and works fine mounted to just fiberglass - but it does have a direct connection to both batt pos+ and neg- (no separate chassis gnd but suspect its internal).Well i need to shut up now but those bad-azz fuel injectors really look cool.
Good night.
cardo0
-Greg





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