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Plugging the Filter Bypass ; any resulting problems ???
Its very tempting to plug the filter bypass to get all the oil filtered ; i did this on my street BB Vette but use K and N's super duper hi flo filters with a high burst point and excellent sealing capabilities. I change the oil every 2500 miles (with new filter) and dont drive it below 45 degrees outside -- by then, its in storage for the winter. I havent ran into any problems at all .
How about you guys ? Ever hear of anyone having a problem after doing this mod ?
I know of a case recently that with the bypass plugged that the pressure differential across the filter cause the filtering element to colapse and shut oil flow off the the rest of the engine. In another case the filtering element colapsed then channeled sending the paper through the engine.
I have plugged my bypass with no effects, and I run a high volume/pressure pump as well. I do only run K&N oil filters, and let the engine warm up fully before I run it hard. I have also converted to synthetic 5W-50 oil as well.
My bypass is also plugged. No problems so far and I am currently running a Fram (I know) HP4. The HP4 has it own internal bypass. The K&N filters (which I want to switch to), according to their web site, do not have an internal bypass. BUT, after talking to one of their reps, he said they do.
Can anyone confirm that the K&N's (looking at running the HP-3002 or HP-6002) have an internal bypass?
Plugging the filter bypass makes absolutely no sense at all.
It's not recommended for everyone across the board, but it does ensure that no unfiltered oil is sent to the main bearings during start up or while the oil is "cold". I've been doing it since 1970 with both my race cars and daily drivers. Inspections of the engines during rebuilds after 100K+ miles reveals little of no wear to the main bearings or the cranks.
Besides changing your oil on a regular basis and using a good name brand oil, you also must use a premium oil filter such as the K&N or FRAM HP-4 units to prevent collapse of the filtering element, and allow your oil to reach operating temperature before reving your engine into the higher RPM's.
Please note, that you will see higher oil pressure when the engine is cold; however, since many Corvette owners use muti-weight synthetic oil, it isn't anything like what we used to see with straight 30 weight HD or racing oil.
Inspections of the engines during rebuilds after 100K+ miles reveals little of no wear to the main bearings or the cranks.
I can say the same thing about my engines - no detectable bearing/journal wear (and barely any measurable cam wear) in 100+K miles, and they had the OE bypass valve, so your "evidence" proves nothing.
These valves open at about 10 psi and it's unlikely that they will open on a cold engine if the oil is a proper viscosity for the cold start ambient temperature and the engine is not expected to immediately produce high load and revs.
On the down side, if the bypass is plugged and the filter gets clogged the filter could either collapse or explode AND starve the engine of ANY oil.
Like I said, plugging the bypass makes no sense at all. The potential consequences far outway any claimed benefits, which are just myth and impossible to prove.
If there was not a good reason to have this device, the OEMs would not have installed it.
Blocking the filter bypass has been a published improvement for years.
I've run it on my old school 350 and 400 in my 69 Nova since purchased nearly two decades ago (sounds like a long time...) I run simple AC P35's and never had any problems-I'm also religious about thorough warm up before throwing seven grand shifts.
It makes sense to do it for enthusiasts...I'm sure the OEM's do it because of the large percentage of population that hardly does any required maintenance on their vehicles...
No one has articulated a specific benefit. Anecdotal evidence indicates blocking it does no harm in most cases. Anecdotal evidence also indicates leaving it installed does no harm in most cases - of which there are many more, and I explained why it is there and the possible consequences of removing it.
I guess if you remove the filter bypass valve you should also remove the coolant thermostat and block the coolant bypasses. It makes about as much sense as removing the filter bypass valve.
Just because something is "published" does not mean it's an improvement. In fact, it can be tough to find "published" information that isn't based on myth, misinformation, and junk science.
Well didn't mean to get your panties in a knot...I was brought up on books rather than internet so I'm much more accepting to information in print rather than from internet keyboard jockeys that are out there.
In other words, there seems to be less misinformation on paper than internet possibly from the way internet info (good and bad) can spread like wildfire...
Nonetheless...I've had no problems with plugging the bypass and run normal AC filters. Some have said one can blow the filter off by reving the engine when cold-too much pressure for the filter due to thick oil.
If there was not a good reason to have this device, the OEMs would not have installed it.
Duke
The only reason the oems run a by pass in the filter is they don't trust the public not to start up a cold engine and immediately make a run to the red line with cold oil, or for people who want to change their oil every 50,000 miles whether it needs it or not. It is only there to protect idiots from the consequenses of their stupidity.
Last edited by Russ Bellinis; Sep 11, 2005 at 02:01 PM.
So what happens if the bypass valve is replaced with a plug and something inside the engine starts disintegrating and clogs the filter before you know there's a problem.
So what happens if the bypass valve is replaced with a plug and something inside the engine starts disintegrating and clogs the filter before you know there's a problem.
Duke
What happens if that happens and the bypass valve is still working?
You will have oil pressure for that last 15 minutes before catostrophic engine failure.
Have to agree with Duke on this one. Considering how most of the folks here are obsesive-compulsive about maintaining their cars, I'm sure if the bypass actually opened it would just redirect clean high dollar synthetic oil.
So what happens if the bypass valve is replaced with a plug and something inside the engine starts disintegrating and clogs the filter before you know there's a problem.
Duke
I have completely destroyed motors and the filter was not completely plugged up. If enough metal goes in the filter to plug it, there are huge problems. Much bigger than the bypass being plugged or not plugged. FWIT, I plug mine. The nickel the plug costs makes me sleep better at night.